Ben's Z

No I am taking the one off of my NA motor and using that.

So using non O Ring injectors gives you some leeway on bore spacing having to be exact? On a Turbo or EFI set up can you deadhead the rail or do you need a return line?

Kick ass, you got some pics? What was the spacing between the bores for the injector barbs?

Ah yes those nails. Having to pull all the cap to put my bearings in the right spots, they go in quite nicely the second time around!

The pistons never came off of the rods and notches in the pistons are facing the front. Do the # marks on the rod caps go on the same side as the rod I presume. i.e. 123456 are stacked with each corresponding number when looking at the side of the complete rod and cap

Here is my original thread on power. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100728-entering-the-world-of-hybrid/page__p__944280__fromsearch__1#entry944280

Well what about the turbo? Can a guy do a DIY rebuild on them pretty easily?

I bought this cam from a member under the premise it was usable. Went to look at it more closely last night and saw this. Looks like someone used the cam dowel as a hammer in my opinion and see the hairline crack? Emailed the member last night and he said he pulled it off a working car and didn't notice anything. Can you replace cam dowels?

I did man! To me putting the bearings in correctly seemed to tighten up the crank free spinning ever so slightly. It did spin though with one hand on the crank snout. I put on all of the rings, clocked the tops at 10 and bottoms at 4 and stabbed 'em all home. Motor turns over nicely. Only had to redo the ring compressor one time, nothing more than light taps and little wiggling got all the pistons seated. All the rods plastigaged at .033mm. Need to order my .015 tower shims and then I am going to put the head on there and put the motor back in the car. I am going to do all the valve train work with the motor in my car. My garage is a disaster!

Have a line on a 3.90 diff. Is this too much gear with a 77 5 speed with plans to run the stock turbo?

I pulled the crank all of the bearings on the block side were in the right configuration. I will button it all back up tonight.

It is not in the How To book. Yes FSM.

What is a FMU? I've been told that all I need for my power goals were the Bell RRFPR, intercooler, manual boost adjuster, and possibly a different fuel pump. I was thinking of keeping boost levels around 12 max.

Tony, I'd like a billet fuel rail, but understand what you are saying. Should I buy some of that fuel stock and cut it in half with two feed lines coming off of a TEE on my future Bell RRFPR and then another TEE tying the two lines together for the return line? Can I eliminate the return line and dead head the rail?

My T3 is sloppy. My power goal is 250 to 270 at the wheel using an RRFPR and intercooler using the factory ECU. 1) Should I just get mine rebuilt? a) DIY hard? Send it to a shop? 2) Is there an upgrade I should just do since it is bad that will work with stock injectors and ECU utilizing a RRFPR? 3) Any good ebay suggestions?

Try again dickbag. I pulled that main saddle and front saddle last night and for some reason on my engine that second saddle is narrower than all the rest and the bearings were the same width. Nor were my bearings in any sort wrap out of the box from Sealed Power.

Here is the answer courtesy of my machine shop! The #1 and #7 bearings are wider than 2,3,4,5 and 6. My wider one is on #2 and I am going to move it to the #1 position. Again I don't think this will matter as the middle thrust bearing won't allow the crank to walk and hit those bearings. I took a .020 feeler last night and it fit between that wider bearing on #2 and the throw towards the back of the engine. If the thrust is less than .007 .020 should never be a factor even with heat expansion.

If this post was related to "Mega Squirt" would someone reply then?

It probably wouldn't be off. Then again I have seen guys on OHV motors use TDC on #1 to dial in a cam. I am building my first engine ever as we speak.

For any others who run in to this problem, I my opinion the rebuild manual is wrong. Turn the nails so the tapered side goes against the rubber seals and the point on the nail on the cap. The seal drives home easier. I may be eating crow if this leaks like a screen door on a submarine later on.

1) I did get the "nails" in from the Fel Pro kit but felt the instructions on the "How to" book were wrong and his way was holding me from getting them seated. He said to put the chamfered side towards the block so that the sharp side does not dig into the seal. After trying to force it in and bending the nails I turned them so the tapered side was going along the rubber and that helped a lot. It also took me about 20 minutes to work all of this out. Will this engine leak oil live a sieve? 2) See pictures. One of the main cap bearings is sticking out past the main cap saddle. I did this when I plastigaged all the caps and I rechecked it for alignment in the saddle before final install with no difference. Should this be something to be worried about? I checked for end play and could not get the .007 feeler between the thrust bearing and crank. I tried the .002 as stated in the rebuild book but it is so flimsy I wasn't sure if it was in there or not. Crank spins freely. 3) I notice that the rear main seal is not riding totally parallel to the back of the block will this leak? It is not that bad.

These mother ******* nails from Fel Pro are bending and will not go in. I even had to skim a little rubber off of the seals themselves with a razor blade to get them to seat all the way. Should I just ******* toss them?

My machine shop and looking at a few other threads on here some guys have gotten away without doing anything and not paying any attention to the order they came out. I saw one guy say you could use an emory cloth and redo them yourself. My cam is used in good condition and I have multiple set of rockers from various heads. The "HOW TO" book says replace them and I assume "Tom" meant on a used cam. So much confusion. My cam is a stock P90.

I asked the machine manager about about resurfacing the rocker arms. He said he didn't think it would matter if you kept them in order or not because they don't wear like a lifter on a conventional push rod V8. Anyone else have any input? The cam I am using is used as well and didn't need any work.