Mack

well, I can tell you what I have done to mine. stock flat top block, Maxima N47 head w/"C" stamp camshaft (256*) felpro gasket, port matched non EGR intake with injector bumps removed, port matched 60MM TB, mildly ported head and a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust, 3" cone airfilter... I had this dyno'd once. a bad Ignition Control unit limited me to about 4500RPM under WOT. the number I saw on the screeen before it shut me down was 141RWHP @ 4200 RPM not too shabby. it was heading for about 170 or so peak. the stock FI system sucks too. it goes linear over about 3500 rpm or so, and its lean to start with, so add a mild cam, more airflow (ported head and what not) and 3 points of compression (calculated to be 11.7:1) and you start to see detonation.

Yup. know htis problem all to well. more airflow above 3500RPM = L28E run lean under WOT. I've got a flat top block with a MN47 head and felpro gasket. 11.7:1 compression. I know I know, too much on crap gas, blah blah blah.... anyway, yes it detonates, but only above about 3500RPM. when that stock flapper door stays wide open, the ECU goes lean. especially with a 60MM TB, ported head, port matched intake with injector bumps removed, and a little bump in the cam department. I saw an A/F chart on a stock L28E onces, Ill have to find it again, ANYWAY, under WOT, the afr hit about 14.5:1 above about 3700rpm. that is NOT a ratio for optimum performance. the reason stock engines dont ping is because of the low compression ratio. not very sensative to lean mixtures. however, when you add 3 points of compression, it tends to make it a little more sensative to lean mixtures and detonation. If I could run a proper A/F ratio (like 13:1, optimum for performance) I could probably get by on 93 octane. the fix, you ask? run a different EFI set-up. turbo will actually MEASURE more air than an NA set-up will, Z31 will measure up to about 300rwhp before it goes linear, or MEgasquirt will get the job done as well.

sorry, didnt mean to say that the N36 intake wouldnt perform better, just meant to say that a 10HP jump is BS, maybe 5 or so. but not 10, unless its a race motor or ITS or something. I think you should be able to use stock insulator blocks, as I beleive all of the insulator blocks are the same. not too sure tho. just a hunch. Im sure someone on here knows.

nope, no stroker here. thats the compression you get when you put an MN47 head on a stock L28E block with flat tops and a felpro HG. the combustion chambers on that head measure somehwere in the neighborhood of 39CC's. it is a little high and it does ping when the stock ECU reaches its limit. but thats because its running lean. once megasquirt comes into play, along with some turbo injectors, this thing is gonna scream.

yeah, for all the work you are going to do to the E31, you would be better off getting a Maxima N47, or commonly called the MN47. it has chambers that are actuall a little smaller than an E31, but it already has big exhaust valves. the intakes are small, but with porting, you can get the head to flow decent numbers. I have a few MN47's laying around if you would want to trade one of your E31's, another nice thing about the MN47's is that the valve seats are of the hardened type, and you can run unleaded on them without problems. Im running one on my car and I like it. compression is 11.7:1, a little on the high side, but oh well. it really is a GREAT street perfromer head when mildly worked over. stock, the thing is a TORQUE MONSTER because of the small intake valves = velocity!

you want to use the N36 260Z manifold with the 240Z balance tube. most (if not all) of the air pollution crap is attached to the balance tube. it comes off of the manifold with 4 bolts. 2 on each manifold. the N36 is reported to give a 10HP increase over the earlier E88 and N33 manifolds. I have a feeling thats BS, but it cant hurt to use it, especially if you have both at your disposal.

thats why people have to plug on a"head" and make their own!! lol!!

Nice pics, nice look at what it takes. making it look like the old "peanut chamber" L16 head. i think the code was A87, not sure. but it looked like that from the factory. too bad the L6 never got heads like that. just gotta make your own. Ive got an N42 head, but it dont look like that! HA ha! oh dear god, please, please tell me you dont plan on running those 4 prong plugs. bosch plugs are utter garbage, in my experience.

maybe a hybrid turbo? I think one of the better ones was a T3/T04S. the S compressor map leaves room for quite a bit of HP while still having decent spool characteristics. at least I think thats the one Im thinking of. feel free to flame me if Im wrong. here are some dyno charts on various turbos slapped on VG30ET's and their accompaniying mod sheets.... dyno charts hope that helps.

yup. it means you now have a distributor 180* out. you can either correct it the right way, or if your really lazy, you can just move all the plug wires around.

nissan rated at gross HP for the first run of Z's, then for ZX's they started using net HP, and according to a few manuals I have read, they rated the HP at the back of the transmission?!?!? how odd is that? so, it still lost HP going through the rear end and crap. anyway, thats the reason the 280Z is rated at 177HP and the next year ZX is rated at 135hp. same engine, different ratings. I beleive Nissan uses the Flywheel rating method now, as i think that is industry standard. the 350Zs put down about 245 to 250 rwhp in every magazine dyno I've seen.

and oh yeah, If you can get your hands on an LD28 oil pan, it already has an oil drain tube (for the alternator!!), is front sump and has expanded capacity. might be worth trying to track one down.

I have had no problems with my Fel-pro gasket, and Im running 11.4:1 compression and it was my daily driver for about a year and a half in that configuration. only reason it is not my daily driver now is because I moved fropm phoenix (the desert) to minneapolis (a winter wonderland) and I dont want my car to be eaten alive by salt! If you are looking at going the "shave and shim" route, I would suggest tracking down a Maxima N47 head. I dont know what it was called over in europe, but the car looks liek this PIC and it is powered by an L24E. it was manufactured from 1981 to 1984 here in the states. bolting the head from this car on to an L28 with flat tops will give you 11.4:1 compression. if thats a little high for your tastes, have the machinest open up the chamber a few CCs by unshrouding the valves and taking the bump around the sparkplug down a little. It will be a whole lot easier in the end than it would be to machine cam spacers, have the cam align bored, find the larger valves, shaving your head 2MM, and all that junk.

hrmmmm, and what intake would that be? I can think of a few. one with 50mm twin mounted throttlebodies and another that wont work on a stock L6, but then thats our little secret.

I think technically, it is supposed to be 96mm center to center, with the middle cylinders (3 & 4) having 98MM because of the thrus bearing for the crankshaft. but according to katmans numbers it shows about 96.5 on all but the middle one still checks out at 98. go figure.

yeah, I think there is a reason 6 stock prepped nissan rods can handle 600 road race HP and 8 prepped stock chevy rods can only handle 475. I wouldnt touch them to tell the truth.

hey 260DET, look up HLH0501, he was a guy running a huge frigging turbo on a 5th gen maxima with a stock VQ30DE in it. he hit I think 500whp with something ungodly like 605wtq. granted he went through a few junkyard motors melting pistons, but he was still running stock electronics and didnt exactly tune it. If an NA block can make those numbers and just hole a piston, think of what a factory turbo block can make with proper tuning and something UNDER 10:1 compression.

G35/350Zs are R200 viscous. its different than the 240SX/na 300zx/q45/j30 R200s as well. they changed it.

I dont have answers for all those of those questions, but I can answer a few. your 260Z, unless its a 2+2, should have an R180 rear end. not sure on the durability of it, but since you are looking for reliability in a 13 sec daily driver, i would suggest an R200 swap. by the looks of it, your set-up with 12 PSI should probably be, ooh, say in the 250rwhp range off the top of my head. which, in a first gen body, should be good for low low 13sec passes, maybe break into the 12's with a little more boost. all depends on the tuning. you sure do have all te right parts tho. Did you have those ford injectors flow tested? I had some i thought were 440CC (as indicated by the part number, 0 280 150 400), I sold some to a freind to put on his CA18DET 240SX. ran pretty rich, couldn't figure it out with the SAFC. he pulled quite a bit of inj duty cycle and finally got it to run right. I later found out that those injectors were sort of a gray area as far as flow. some sites list them as 437cc, some sites list them as 46lbs/hr and some sites list them as 510cc. GOK ( god only knows) which is the right one. but Im leaning towards the 510cc/min based on my freinds experience.

the US got a datsun 810 from 1977 to 1980 with the L24E, then they changed body styles and went with a maxima some said 810 and some said 910 as well, from 1981 to 1984. 85+ the maxi went FWD with a VG30 engine.

interesting. thanks for the input.... NORM>>>>> hopefully, the chamber work I am doing will prevent detonation! but the 2nd ringland needs to be thicker? Ill keep tht in mind, especially since this motor may see boost at alater date (with a little less compression, obviously! 1 fast Z>>>>>>>> there is a little more room to play with than 14MM. I have a compression height of 28mm, the pin I use will be either 25mm or 21mm. 28 - (25/2) = 15.5mm or with the 21mm pin 28 - (21/2) = 17.5mm, so how would those numbers grab you? I think 17.5 is a wee bit more to play around with.... just some quick math 1.2mm ring + 1.2mm ring + 3mm ring = 5.4mm . now with the 21 MM pin, 17.5 - 5.4 = 12.1mm which would leave for 6mm for EACH ring land, thats almost 1/4 inch! pretty good, yes? or with the 25mm pin, 15.5 - 5.4 = 10.1. that would leave 5mm for each ring land, still decent, right?

no, Im running 11.4:1 on my set-up and the stock fuel system HATES it. MSnSE on the way with bigger injectors.

o.k. I dont know much about pistons or what optimal ring land thickness is, but I can tell you what I have in mind, hopefully you can guide me in the right direction...... My engine in my head requires a 28MM pin height. I can have either a 25MM pin or bush the rod to use a standard L series pin. full floating of course... would it be better to use the 21mm pin to have more meat left over for the ring pack? How would you set up the ring pack? how thick of ring lands, spacing, thickness of rings, material of rings, etc...... Im gunning for a 1.75:1 rod/stroke ratio and it will be NA, CR of about 11:1, maybe turbo down the line. not sure. thanks in advance! MSA is coming up soooooooon! lol

I get 10:1 for a stock L24 with a regular head gasket and 10.25:1 with a felpro. The MN47 has a 39CC combutsion chamber., for future reference. you would have to notch the cylinder walls because the MN47 has the larger exhaust valves.

If they are just lightening it, I dont see how it can get out of balance in the first place. I mean, they are just going to stick it on a lathe or mill some material off the back, right? either way, a uniform amount of material is going to be taken off the entire circumfrence of the flywheel, unless this is jim-bobs machine shop and he is out back with a die grinder........ Thats like having to "re-balance" a brake rotor after having it turned. Not necessary because it is removing a uniform amount of material everywhere on the disc. Tell the machine shop that all L-series engines are internally balanced and dont need a flywheel to balance them out. Most engines that do not have a counterweighted crank are american engines and ALSO have dowel pinned flywheels.