SHANE

hmmm, i would stay away from the nissan gasket, felpro is by far the best i have found. i have used it on two seperate motors that see 25psi on pump gas and two other turbo cars that ran 12-15psi non intercooled. after replacing the nissan unit with a felpro i never have a problem. i did order an actuall nissan head gasket once but it didn't last very long.

370-390cc if i remember right. by the way they are USELESS sidefeed injectors. they wont work on anything else.

NX universal import kit

3.54 gears and 10MPG

dont know, i'll have to find out. your fuel pump sounds big enough

Hey James, i cant use the manifold yet due to clearance with the turbo. as soon as i save up enough for a T-66 and the header then i will put the new intake on cant wait, i am so tired of looking at that ugly thing that is on the car now.

http://www.geocities.com/shaneszt/juice.html This **** rocks!! Just got it installed last night and with the boost turned down to 15psi and a 35 shot it is faster than the turbo at 25psi. i would never have thought that a 35 shot of nitrous would make a difference. holy crap does it. the first time i hit the juice i almost hit my head on the roll bar the car took off so hard. i cant wait to feel 25psi and a 75 shot yes it is still the stock motor, i have a built one ready to go in but i cant find a reason to drop it in. i just cant seem to hurt the stock engine(that was probably my kiss of death.)

that HKS one sounds like crap! total ricer, an awful high piched whistle.

No the stupid open deck design is a disaster waiting to happen NOT what i would want on a forced induction car. then you would be just like the honda crowd and wait for someone to come out with a block gaurd

Well this time it was the CV. (car broke at midnight i couldn't look at the damage, all the noise was coming from the rear so figured the diff blew again.) The bolts that hold the cv to the hub sheared off!! everything looks intact, all i have to do is find some bolts. i doubt all 6 broke, i suspect that a few of them must have rattled loose. i am still going to have the sipders welded though. i dont know, i want 3.08 gears. the 3.54's are way too steep.

Ooops, sorry Nathan

Tires did not spin, smooth concrete, BFG drag radials 275/50/15. didn't even stall the thing up. just put it to the floor and when the turbo hit about 20-22psi BAM!! mind you this was not a launch, just taking off from a light. I really really really really really really really need a Ford 9" under this thing.

more than likely the pin snapped, thats waht happened the first time.

I left a stop light at WOT throttle, the car took off and right as i got through the light the rear end blew. This is my second R 200 that has gone out on me. On street tires non the less. MY question is will welding an R200 make it any stronger, or am i just pissing in the wind here? i have the diff right now and had planned on having it welded, but i dont want to waste my time. Thanks, Shane

the engine goes lean because you have low numbers in your lower man press values. ie. man press -19.9. did you do as the manual suggests? start the eninge up, set ign rpm at 10 deg. for 500 - 1500 rpm. then adjust the magnet position value until. ah hell here, this is the instructions

Yeah only if you are unfortunate enough to have a non turbo car. they sell the followers for turbo cars for 30.00 a piece.

Can anyone chime in here? This question has yet to be answered. also where can we get the followers? 30.00 a piece is just down right STUPID!!!!! there has to be another source, or they must not need to be changed. I find it hard to believe that very many people would actually part with that much money just for damn followers!

that guy has been trying to sell those for over 6 months now. who wants a paper thin i/c?

XS engineering gets around 500.00 for that core

it would run a ten now if you would keep your foot planted when you shift.

also, i have always found 8 psi on a zcar when the cat is removed.

is the rod adjustable? did you have to "stretch it" before it would go on?

i'll let you do all the reading for me there smart guy if the outside temp is 90deg than the water running through a radiator out in front will not be any cooler than 90deg. if the water in the intercooler is 90deg than the air flowing through it cant cool below 90deg. so without ice, at best, you get inlet temps at ambient. the same or maybe a little better than a good air to air will get ya. this is on the street, but for drag race only i would go with an air/water and do the ice thing every run.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6770&item=1874671443 i think i need this!!! what do you guys think? i was thinking a 75 shot to get it into boost then hold on! i suspect a little lag on the old L28 but me still likes