gjc5500

Ok. glad we could help. i wish someone had started this thread when i got the carbs. :/

here is the front carb linkage and the center shaft the rear shaft you run this above the main shaft. i believe the instructions said below. The part that i am touching is the part that needs to be fabbed. i used a old lift point off of a old sbc. another shot of it I hope this helps you. The linkage in the configuration that you see moves and returns very smoothly.

Air horns basically create a huge venturi that causes the air to pick up speed. high velocity air is better to have than high volume(genraly speaking). I have never used them on the z car so i cant help you there. I did however run one on a sbc on the dyno, picked up like 5hp using it.

That is pretty much what you hear when you are at UTI so im gonna say YUP. lol. yea thats right about runner length.

The kit really does not work with a 240. if i had a camera i would show you. i had to fab an adapter

i pulled the switch apart today and it was almost solid with corrosion. cleaned it. started to work only on the rear right. messed with it some more. one of the tabs on the rocker portion was cracked, and broke completly off when i was reassembling the switch. untill i can get to PnP im thinking about just using a 3way switch and putting it in the column. as for the tail lights. im thinking about making the "tail light" the turn signal, and putting a dual filiment bulb in the upper section for a tail light and brake light.

anyone?

so my signals stopped working on my 73 240z today, and Ive searched on Google and here to find a solution. after coming up empty handed, i messed with the switch, which created a new problem. my signals still down work, but when i apply the brake, the right side signal indicator turns on, along with the front marker light. so i was thinking that i was gonna bypass the brakeswitch strait to the tail lights, and maybe run a 3 way switch for the signals. the only thing i havent figured out is how to wire it. from what i understand, i would run the white(flasher) wire as the Hot to the switch, then the white/red and gree/red would go as one side. and the white/black and the green/black for the other. im planing on running a duel filiment bulb in the rear to make up for the shared light. does this seem like it would work? if not, what would i have to do? i cannot afford a new switch.

BOZO PIPES FTW! im having this problem really bad. know its in the back cuz i fixed the leak in the front.

my 73 HAD those.

Once you find the perfect launch rpm, get a 2 stage limiter. then you can launch more consistently. just a thought tho

occasional race. i just wanna stay with the l24. i dont wanna go get a 280 block cause i have a shop that owes a favor.

Not to go off topic, talked to an engine builder at UTI. he says that when he breaks them in he pushes to 3k, stops, pushes to 5k, stops, pushes to redline. then he lets the car sit for 30min-a hour. repeat this 3 times and the rings will be fully seated and the engine will be ready for anything you throw at it. i trust him considering hes been building motors for 30+years and never had one come apart. looking good man

I am currently planning a engine build for my 240. i wanna stay with the L24. i was wondering how big you can bore the stock block safely. would i be able to go big enough for a set of 280 pistons? thanks in advance -gabe

its fixed. took a dremel to the center of the hub and took all the burs off of it. came right off

brakes are adjusted out. tried the hammer. no holes for a bolt

so i broke a wheel stud and went to change it(ez to do right?). the drum will not come off. it is stuck to the hub and will not budge. ive tried prying, hammering, using a puller. if anyone has any info on how to get it off please let me know.

looks good man. i just wanted to chime in on the clutch thing. a puck clutch is way over hyped(quoted from my manual trans class at uti) the reason for this is that theres less surface. maybe theres a reason that F1 drivers use Non-puck clutches. maybe a multi-disk clutch would be better. just going by what ive learned.

i just slowly pored the whole bottle into the carbs. worked fine once the smoke cleared

but is the casting so different that you cant mod to get it to fit?

i believe that older civic blower motor/cage will fit with light mods. hopefully someone will chime in with the years

When i hooked it up all i did was unhook EVERYTHING dealing w/points(including condensors) and went red to + and yellow to - thats all you have to do and the tack will still work.

ive spent some time searching and have found a couple things. 1st, what is the difference between a dgv and the dgev carb? 2nd, will the dgev electric choke go onto the dgv?

so basicaly convert the stock strut tube so you can adjust it?

about the on budget coil over thing u were talking about