roger280zx

I guess the fact that he's asking such an open ended question involving a 300hp L engine lead us all to beleive he was talking turbo. Or maybe because out of all the N/A builds featured on this forum, even the most expensive ones I haven't seen 300whp on any pump gas, much less 87. IIRC Dan Baldwin was close, but not over 300 on pump juice.

I bought all of my bends (2.5" aluminum) shipped to my front door for $80. I assume you could do the same (but with stainless if thats what you have to have) buy your mufflers and have a competent shop weld it up for you for $1000 or less. I have under $250 in mine, but I'm a cheap a$$...

I am no expert and this would have no effect on the combustion temps or timing advance, but cooling the VAVLE SPRINGS with oil holds more performance value than piston spuirters do. This is well documented in both drag racing and Nascar, the technology and hardware are both cheaper and more simple. That being said I think you guys are barking up the wrong tree. I look at this in the same light as rod ratio, some people think it is everything and there is no amount of evidence to the contrary that will change their mind. Mean while others build engines to suit with out all their benchracing gizmos that hold up just fine. Naturally aspirated at xx,000 rpm piston squirters (as well as longer rods) will make some difference. I am not arguing against that. But on a turbo engine I think there are much better places to focus your efforts and resources that will be much more frutfull. If one of the race engine builders here thinks I am totally off base with this info, please by all means, prove me wrong. Until then my money will go to better quality pistons and other things to help my little Lgata hold up through the revs. And my power will be made with headflow and the snail hanging off the manifold.

Less timing, less octane, more BOOST! I've heard of BBC making 1,000+ on thier 87 octane tune and then 1,500 on good gas with some timing. My friend makes 290 at the wheels on 87 octane with 21 psi, and 290 at the wheels with 93 octane and 16 psi (this is in a 1.8t). It is all in the tune!

Actually the airdam is $350 according to the link above. The $1g is for the whole body kit.

If that doesn't work out I have access to one, just let me know what its worth to you.

It has been done.

What leads you to beleive there will be problems? Do you know the history of these engines? By that I mean that Nissan put (what would soon be recognized as) an L28 crank in an L24 block to create an L26. What makes you think going the other direction will create problems? You already know the pistons are the hard part... what is the hold up. DO IT

I have an L28e cam, I am located at 30656. Ready to trade

I'll trade you if you can't find one locally.

So sorry to offend with my so obviously emotional answer. Maybe the word "Craft" is less offensive, and we can deem those who employ the Art as "Craftsmen" the way that Websters Dictionary does. Could we move on with the tensioner discussion now, or is 7.5 hp at 8000rpm the final answer. My assumption would be that through the stabilization of the timing chain the engine may see less wear over time. In other words hold on to more horse power that would other wise be lost to slack in the chain over a period of time. Is there any evidence to that theory?

And this, to TonyD's point, is exactly why you're not getting it. It certainly is art, and you're not giving it that credit, and benefit.

Yeah, the good ole' cold air intake where the filter is next to the coil that is cooling the whole engine! Mine is on a 45* pointed down right off of the turbo. It felt like 20-30 hp from the clogged filter that was slammed behind the headlight where it was getting NO airflow.

You gotta have that Kung Fu grip! Haha Getting back on topic, can anyone speak to their experience of valve train stability provided by the tensioner. It seems to me that most chain slack due to extensive decking can be addressed with the available short valves and tower shims. Given those options it would be quite a stretch for me to make the substantial investment in this system unless there is some other particular gain. I can see that saving your race head, already filled with hours of porting and nice valves, by decking and removing the slack with the Kameari idlers. But to get back to the o.p. what is the benefit (if any) to include the twin idlers in your clean slate build?

Update?

It is well known that the L6 is especially sensative to exessive valve spring pressure. Most cams sold for these engines have imprpper lobe profiles, and Jon's engine proves that when as much attention is paid to things like ring packs and bearing clearances, as is paid to lobe profiles and adequate spring pressure... amazing things happen at the dyno, then at the track.

It might be that they don't want the charge pipe heating radiatior. I know honda's and evo's that heat soak the rad with the turbo, but I don't think a charge pipe would do it much. If you use stainless it should keep the radiator heat out of the cold pipe running opposite routing to your example. I say cough up the extra bucks for stainless piping wich ever way you rout it.

When you say leaning towards toyota calipers is that the iron one from the trucks. Isn't there an aluminum option out there that would provide greater braking and reduce weight?

Z32 calipers are NOT hard to find. The early aluminum calipers are very light. They are the same caliper that was on the GTR of the same era, both cars are quite heavy and they will fade when pushed hard. This means they are often upgraded and can be had for cheap. In a 2500# car you can repeatedly slow from 150+ on slicks with no fade. Those BIG and HEAVY cars have given these calipers a bad reputation, but they are an exelent upgrade for anything under 3000lbs IMO. And you might get lucky and find a few sets at the pick n pull for $16.11 per front and $12.28 per rear corner like I did;) I would lend them to you for a mock up, or I might even be able to help out with the development in some other way. I have 15 inch race wheels, so mine have to fit 15's, you really don't need more than 11.5" if its a quality rotor on these cars. 12.2" is defenitly adequate and will fit most 15's.

I take the L79 to just over 6k, but it's got a hydrolic cam. That is a 350hp 327. Not sure what 65 you have but you need to find out what type of cam and pistons you have before you start over revving.

Those are so totally awesome. And I'm a total vintage speed part nerd.

I would have gone turbo sooner. Boost has been the most rewarding experience of my automotive life. It just makes me feel so smart to mess with the car for 20 minutes then the test drive grin lasts miles beyond the actual test drive. I guess that is a perk of inheriting a pile of great parts that is just WAY out of tune, and the boost exemplifies the new tune and previous lack there off. So I guess my answer would be l28et, HA!

We are talking NA torque. Boost is always a torque maker. Nice pics from Tony, can't wait to hear more about this one!

The z32 is a good example of someone who knows what there doing adapting a light that compliments the lines of the car. An "update" if you will. The s130 is a good exaple of what happens when you give someone with less than average taste a hammer and some bondo. I know the s130 is not for everyone in the first place, (even though I happen to love them) but this just seem like a crude attempt at an update. I'm sure the conversation went something like this: "How can we make this old Datsun look new again"..."I fount some new Z lights on ebay, lets chop the roof off and update the lights".