roger280zx

Look at Monzter's intake thread.

Looks to me like someone fabbed the skirts and the airdam is the same old plastic one they sell everywhere.

These at big motors, the displacement is deceptive. BIIIG LONG HEAVY crank shaft, + stock rods and pistons are incredibly heavy by modern standards. Yes you absolutely should run the best balancer you can afford. I don't know personally, but every Z engine guy I've ever talked to said not to run a L24 balancer on a L28 and if you think about that it does make a lot of sense. Now that a good condition USED balancer cost between $100 and $200, NEW original $250-$300, and VERY good after market unit around $500. For me and my Z, that will never be judged for the amount of factory overspray on the balancer, we run the BHJ. Go talk to the guys at the track and see what they are running. That is what I did.

Just order the listed parts from an online supplier. Like rockauto or anyone who will ship there. There are more benefits to more modern spindles than just being able to bolt on CHEAP coilovers like Megan. Tein makes nice ones, QA1, Penske there are many. I like to swap the better brakes and stuff at the same time.

Little ole ladies blow transmissions all the time because of a leak in the rad. If it is an auto the question should be how BIG and how many coolers.

Trust me I know, my car needed cf too. I settled for fg.

The problem is the market, certain vendors have made hood and hatch, but nobody buys them so they eventually stop production.

Later rear control arms are different. S13 coil overs drop in the later rears, but not in the early ones.

It has been a while, but I fitted 15x10 5.5" on 11.5x23x15 under stock fenders in the back. I'm pretty sure the rear fit with out spacers, but the front no way, not even with 30mm spacers. Fronts were rubbing the strut.

I would imagine the intake restriction and lower rev limit would take care of the excessive noise and horsepower (I can't believe there is such a thing). If it were me I would build it into the carb spacer, you can build them with simple tools and they swap easily. Full disclosure- the extent of my smog knowledge was acquired when my tech told me to pull my brake booster vac line in my 86 corolla to clean it up. It didn't work, I moved and haven't had a smog fit since. This all sounds incredibly stifling to me... best of luck!

What factory under trays are you mimicking? The only reason I ask is because depending on the car it probably has nothing to do with downforce, many modern cars have whiz bang features underneath just to make them a bit more quiet and squeeze another .003 mpg. Please keep us posted on development and testing.

According to the math 90x90 is 3.435, whether it has a 6.00 rod or a 60.00 rod it is 3.435 liters.

Hmm... have any of you who have performed this swap collected any measureable data using the same tire, spring rate, brakes etc. from a before/after swap comparison? Or is the consensus that brand new parts from a new chassis works better than wore out stuff on old tires. That would be a no brainer. Not trying to hate on what you guys have done as I understand it is a ton of work. We are currently in the process of swapping the hubs and bearings (s13), coilovers, and brakes (z32) on my personal s130 and I am looking for appreciable gains. To say that it is a better design could be considered somewhat of a stretch when you look at actual race cars that use trailing arm suspension. Rally, road, autox, even drag racing but more specifically anytime you want to put (a lot) of power down on corner exit from what I have seen the semi trailing arm is superior.

Be sure to specify a premium vinyl when dealing with sign shops. Most use inferior/ nonautomotive product for their typical application. Be sure to allow adequate cure time for the area you're applying it. If you think you may want to remove it later I recommend using wrap vinyl as it is much easier to remove.

The absolute most fun per dollar mods that I have done to a zx (with turbo swap being the exception) have been to remove weight. It certainly will not hurt your gas mileage either. Loose the cat if you can, and aluminum 2.5" pipe yields a small power increase and drops 45 or 50 lbs. De-power the rack or swap to a rack if you have a recirculating ball, loose the A/C, power antenna, tag light, cruise control, small battery mounted on frame rail right next to the starter, LW flywheel. Include some misc brakets, bitchin betty, yata yata pretty soon you have a 2500-2600 lb GT Z with original safety, reliability, and comfort. And it hardly costs anything. Well maybe not comfort if you ditch the AC that's up to you. The aero of the zx is soooo much better than an s30, typically they lack some performance because they where so weighted down, but if you remove that weight...

What are the benefits over a properly sprung s130 suspension? To me it seems like an awful lot of work to convert to 5 lug/ better brakes. Especially when you consider that most of the upgraded components (brakes, coil overs, wheels bearings, etc) are easily upgraded to the stock suspension. And when you upgrade said components you retain the trailing arm rear which from what I've seen is a much better sports car suspension than that of the s13/s14.

Aritaspeed or otherwise I am in dire need of a gnose to finish off my 280zx widebody. I would prefer it be in north America so I can actually get it. I have not seen one advertised for quite a while and I really can't wait for it to come from Japan. PM is preferred, let me know what you have or if you seen an add for one recently. Thank you.

My 83 with T-tops and most all other bells and whistles got 28.5 on my first road trip. Atlanta to Valdosta (loosing altitude the whole way) but it was the first week I owned it so the digital speedo read 85 the entire way even flogging it to about 125-130 for brief periods. It was 5 speed, stock 205/70/14, stock 3.9 open, and a fresh tune up. On the return trip driving much more conservatively (no hurry to get home) she did 29.5 with the a/c blasting. I would bet that with a few mileage oriented modifications like swapping an r180 with 3.36 or 3.54, loosing the cat, and a bit of tuning from BRAAP's efi thread you could do well over 30mpg and it would be a hoot to drive. fc20 is not really known to be a great gas mileage engine, the off idle torque of a relatively stock l28 is what is gonna get the mileage.

Three torque peaks! Z-ya you should road race that thing!

Very pretty! How is the distribution to the siamesed runners? Distribution in 1, 5, and 6 has been an issue with these long engines before.. and is often a persistent one with the front mounted TB. All that aside its a beautiful piece, as is your other works (I follow on instagram) and I love the bolt on plenum.

It would be my guess that the bolts backed out when everything was coming apart. Turns 6 and 7 are known engine killers of all makes, models, and performance levels. If you don't have a way to keep the oil fed (accusump, drysump, flop tube, etc.) it is not a good idea to go tearing around back there. Lighter pistons make rods stronger, so less mass is required of the rods, lighter rods and pistons make cranks stronger, and mass can be taken off the crank.

Look it up, summit sells it and I think eastwood as well. Glyptal is an affordable, easy to apply oil shed coating.

I have to ask, why steel?

Is it a turbo ecu? Does it make crazy noise when it is running?

What do you mean there is no way to control boost? Is there no wastegate? I would check compression first, before I did anything else. From what I've seen the head gasket is the weak link, but with the right (read wrong) combination any number of things could have been hurt. Rings, valves, pistons, bearings, rods or a combination of these could be problematic. It can be tempting when you find a poor old sap you think you can get a "He doesn't know what he's got" deal from. Just imagine the "He doesn't know what he's getting.." deal that proceeded it may have been like. Now if he's giving or paying you to take it away that is a different story entirely!