datsun79z

JSM; You should make a sleeper out of it, then blow the doors off of newer fancy cars, like Honda's. Mike

Josh817; Wow, what an issue to overcome and at such a young age. If it's a combination of sight and sound that bothers her, then I might have the answer and it's low tech. A set of horse blinders and foam ear plugs should do the trick. It worked for my wife. Now when I drive she is not afraid of anything. Mike

MadMaxDallas; That's the cats ass. Absolutely superb. Merry Christmas to all; Mike

TPS is an acronym for throttle position switch. Welcome to the Brotherhood of Z and ZX owners. This device is located on the throttle body just behind the rubber boot that connects the air flow meter ( AFM ) to the throttle body. Mike

Ottoauto; You mentioned "once I put the 5 speed in". Sounds like you may have done some upgrades/part swapping. I believe there are differant lenghts of relaese sleeves/release bearings. Is there a chance you installed one of the wrong lenght? Anyone else care to comment? Mike

Comrade; Nissan did a very nice job of color coding thier electrical wires. You will benifit from purchasing a Nissan manual, preferably a Factory Service Manual. If you buy an after market manual be sure it includes an electrical schematic indicating the differant colored wires. Welcome to the Brotherhood of the Z. Mike

Canonball55; BTW. I can attest to the fact that this WAS NOT done with photo shop or any other such program. This was the real thing.

Hello Canonball55; If a motorhome (see attached thread) can do burnouts you should have no issue poppin wheelies. Drive way burn outs (1 2) Paz8

I wonder if the driver was repremanded?

Itsaprothing; I believe 1goodson@pacbell.net is correct in stearing you towards a brake issue here. If the rear brakes are replaced and adjusted incorrectley they will drastically heat up. So much so you cannot even touch the rear wheel due to excessive heat. This can put such a load on the clutch as to do damage to it, also causing the the engine to over heat. The hand brake would be affected as well. If the rear calipers need to be replaced, DO NOT use rebuilt. Use BRAND NEW NISSSAN CALIPERS. They are more expensive at the time of purchase, but a much, much better value in the long run. I speak from experience. Let us know how things work out for you.

Ah, come on fellers. Everyone has to start somewhere. Nice thing about startin at the bottom, is that there's only one way to go.

Congradulations!

Congradulations on the effort! I will keep you in my prayers.

Ben; This could be a good find if you are into self abuse. My father had one of these when I was in high school during the 60's. I remember it being slower than the 2nd coming of Christ. With the tires and manual steering you had to have the arms of a gorilla to park it. I don't remember it being much of a Chick Magnet either. The coolest thing about it was that with the use of a snorkel you could drive it under water as the electrical system was water tight. Datsun79z

Gentlemen; In particular, Mr. MJLamberson, Mr. Challenger, Mr. Hyuri, Mr. Blueovalz and Mr. JohnC. Thank you for the advice and insight on this query. The Factory Nissan manual does not describe a 'Reaction Disc' within the braking system section. However I will continue to pursue the matter further. Would anyone care to describe what the 'reaction disc' looks like and to what side of the vacume booster it should be located on? Again, thank you all. If I can ever be of assistance please feel free to contact me directly at datsun79z@aol.com. Regards; Michael Hintz

Hello all; I've searched for a satisfactory answer to the following question but have not found the answer I need. Any help from fellow Z'sters will be appreciated. The problem: The car a 1980 ZX 2+2 and exhibits excessive braking force which is biased towards the front. Originally it was an auto, and is now a 5 speed manual. What I've done: I have installed two new master cylinders. Each time they were bench bled. The system has been succesfully bled three times. No change was noticed. I have ensured the brake line fittings are installed properley at the NP fitting. This is the fitting Nissan has mounted to the frame on the passanger side, under the hood. The check valve and brake booster have checked out according to the Factory Nissan manual. Vacume is being maintained per spec. I found no mention of a proporting valve or other related device in the Factory Nissan manual, nor have I located such a device on the car. Did I over look it? With the back of the car off the ground, out of gear, parking brake off and rotating the wheel/tire assembly by hand a minor amount of dragging noise can be heard. I believe this should indicate there is not excessive piston travel in the calipers. Minor pressure on the pedal locks both rear wheels up. There are no visible hydraulic leaks. DOT 3/4 is being used. All brake lines are of the stock variety. When braking, the car acts as though it has to much boost from the vacume booster. I did remove the booster and brake lines prior to painting the car. Could there be two differant boosters available (one for ZX's and another for 2+2's)? The front end brakes excessively hard. After coming to a full stop the brake pedal goes most of the way to the floor. Pumping of the brake pedal does little to bring it back up to where one expect it to be. With the engine off, I always have a firm pedal. Braap and Ron Tyler have looked at it as well as a Nissan mechanic with 30 plus years of experience. The three of them are baffled as am I. Input from fellow Hybrid Z members will be greatly appreciated. Regards; Michael Hintz

I am completing an auto to 5 speed conversion in a 79 280zx. The A.S.C.D. (cruise) and it's related parts:p have been removed as well. The Nissan Factory manual talks about Inhibitor Relay and Inhibitor Switch. The location of the relay is disclosed, but the Inhibitor Switch location is not talked about. I need to locate, and bypass it. Does anyone know the location? Thanks for any help in advance. This subject is not covered in detail anywhere in this forum. Regards; Mike Hintz

Here's another option; Remove the canister from it's currant location along with the mounting bracket. Relocate it above and in front of the passanger side front tire up under the fender. You will have to replace or extend by splicing the vacume hoses. I've done this and it helps clean up the engine bay. Road debris and water have not been of any issue. It makes things look a bit cleaner and you continue to help the enviroment a tad. Somewhere in one of the forums are pics of my engine compartment. Maybe Ron Tyler or Brapp could direct you to them. Hope this helps out. Mike HIntz

I've spent the time "searching" this question but have not found a satisfactory answer. The issue..I read/hear of Z owners (usually 85 and newer) having problems with clogged injectors due to Ethanol used in today's gases. I do not hear of this problem with the older Z's as often. The questions.. 1. Were earlier injectors less prone to these issues or are there just a lot less of them on the road today? 2. What additives, if any can be used with today's gases to prevent this problem, if any? 3. What is the physical relationship between the fuel and fuel injector, i.e is the fuel "not cleaning' or 'not lubricasting' moving parts. I look forward to your comments; Regards; Mike Hintz

What a nice car. You've got yourself a winner. Congrats and welcome to the club.

Elks240; I feel your pains. I too, have a car (n/a 85 Subaru gl) that exhibits downshifting problems. No matter how hard I try I just can't downshift into 1st gear unless I am traveling at less than 20mph.

You're partially correct. However it's not dryer sheets, it's USED disposable diapers they do not like. Mike H

Years ago I meant an "old timer" who lived in the mountains, out towards the Oregon Coast. Somehow our conversation came to the subject of "Rodent Proofing". His method incorporated spredding several inches of cedar chips, under his home.

Ron; Congrats, O wise one. Mike

I am in the midst of converting an auto tran to manual. Question. How many springs is the clutch/brake pedal assembly supposed to have? The assembly I am looking at has 3, one for the brake and two for the cluch. I only have one extra part left from doing the conversion, a yellowish/silver sping about 3 inches in length. Any info will be appreciated. Regards; Mike HIntz