grumpyvette

Ive built a few 500 caddy engines, I think your fooling yourself if you don,t think 400hp & 500 plus ft lbs of tq at low thru mid rpms from a mildly modified engine won,t make for some impressive performance, while its no big block chevy or hemi stroker its no SLUG EITHER, and you don,t need to wind up the rpms to get the power, just floor the car and hang on, its right now instant power

I was asked where to get a CHEAP degree wheel heres one you can print out and save for engine builds on the engine stand (put curser on an click) I don,t know how to explain how to get the picture printed, but my younger son (32 years old) printed it and had it laminated for me, I made several copies on hard plastic sheet http://savetheledges.org/test/AVS/images/tech/CrankDegreeWheel.png try, right click , hit "save as," then saved it to my desktop. Opening it with Windows Picture and Fax viewer will let you print it centered on a single piece of paper. http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/803.pdf

' Every morning I look in the mirror and say "should I kill myself or go to work?" Ive felt like that on a few occasions.....now I no longer go to work....(retired)

hope it works out well for you guy,Ive had mine for 38 years now, the $25 marraige certificate was not that much and the up-keep costs are reasonable so I guess it worked out......but the hidden costs and benefits are what make you crazy and worth it!

http://amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/102-5007616-6964908?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=tuned+port+injection&Go.x=12&Go.y=8 ok, a few points (1)the stock TPI intake even once extensively ported is going to be very restrictive to max air flow,youll need to upgrade the head, intake, manifold, cam and compression to maximize the potential results. (2) the max reasonable lift and durration for street use on a small block is in the area of .570-.600 lift and 234-240 @ .050 lift range with 92 octane fuel and 3.73 rear gears, the best cams Ive found to date http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00471&x=17&y=5 http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5 (3) the curtain area of flow a .600 lift and a 2.02 valve is 3.8sq inches (4) max compression on pump gas is in the 10.5-11:1 with those cams and that REQUIRES BOTH a 3.73-4.11:1 rear gear and a 2800-3000rpm stall or manual transmission (5)look thru these http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/intake.htm (6)head flow with the comon 23 degree heads should exceed 240cfm at .400 lift to maximize the results (7) displacement should be maximized, theres no reason to build less than a 383-396, cost will be a factor if you go bigger than about 421-430cid without a aftermarket block example of what can be built http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/DPIEFI427.html http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article034/A-P2.htm

Im forced to aggree that a good dual plane LIKE a HOLLEY or EDELBROCK DUAL PLANE would help here. you might want to pick up a copy of this, its fun to play with, answers or at least gives some idea as to what youll expect http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/site/573683/product/186010 you really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal, while only the basic info is presented it still makes for a good knowledge base, and referance buy and watch this cd and read this first http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON& LARRY SCHREIB HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS get the CD on engine assembly,and the books I listed , its the best money youll ever spend! know what your trying to do, and how and why the engine goes together the way it does will prevent hundreds of dollars in potential mistakes you can get EVERYTHING from either http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html or http://amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/102-5007616-6964908?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=sbc+engines&Go.x=9&Go.y=9 parts sources http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161485 info you need http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/ http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles.php#SBC http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html

"I bake cakes and fine pastry." OK,so far we have one guy doing something really useful....OH O forgot we have TWO, one guy does BOOB JOBS TOO! !!!

Mikelly people like you scare me at times......I always detested change unless I was the one forceing it!,.....maybe Im just old but I always prefered to do the same basic job untill ID mastered it and become the best there is at that job! Ive done complex engineering and extensive sales work and got many awards in both fields CHANGE was always rammed down my throat, and most change was not for the long term benefit of most, it was driven for the goal , of making it cheaper,faster,and with less employes seldom Have I seen change solely to improve, or make something better example I was a top rated engineer, I got sent into the field with the sales force to help, sell at&t switching equipment, after watching the morrons that did it for a month I approached the area sales manager and requested a chance to sell on my own (keep in mind I was an engineer and engineering was paying my sallery and I got zero commission) in the first year I outsold the countrys best salesmen by over a MILLION DOLLARS, second year by over 3 million, Id have destroyed the pay/comission curve, if I was getting paid a commission, I was told to go back to engineering as I was making them look bad. sales fell, I was asked back, but told engineering would no longer pick up my pay check, Id be on commission, I was thrilled UNTILL I was told I would get paid a reduced commission rate AND only aproximately 30% of my sales would count toward the commission as that was the only way I would not screw up the curve! (the boss said 70% of my sales would show as other salesmans sales so ther group would look good) I told them to stick it! and went back to engineering and got awards for excellence(no money but at least I was recognized)

good http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D1302%2D16&autoview=sku better http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRO%2D73640%2D16&autoview=sku

now think how fast it would be in a Z over 1000 lbs lighter in weight

"I am a master of sleep deprivation." HA! !! rank amateur! wait till you have a new born kid and a 6 year old thats sick at the same time , and hold down two jobs, then you can talk about sleep deprivation!!! without a wife to help out ID be dead by now (30 years plus ago)

RETIRED , 8 years now (YES!!! FINALLY!!! YAHOOO!!!) MECHANICAL ENGINEER!! and part time, for a long time , (35 years)custom engine builder/corvette racer (obsessive hobby and part time income) full time OLD GEEZEER

take your time and read thru these http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95298_camshaft_lobe_phasing/ http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0607phr_camshaft_basics/ digest that and you won,t get confused look a cam does nothing more than control the valve timing, for a given rpm, displacement ,compression, port size,scavaging length on the headers,ETC. theres a narrow range that will maximize the cylinder fill efficiency, in most cases that a lower total durration and tighter LCA than most guys sellect, because the wider LCA runs smoother at low rpms and they want more durration to compensate to get the overlap into the effective range BTW that lopey idle indacate the engine in reversion, NOT A GOOD THING

take your time and read thru these http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95298_camshaft_lobe_phasing/ http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0607phr_camshaft_basics/ digest that and you won,t get confused look a cam does nothing more than control the valve timing, for a given rpm, displacement ,compression, port size,scavaging length on the headers,ETC. theres a narrow range that will maximize the cylinder fill efficiency, in most cases thats a lower total durration and tighter LCA than most guys sellect, because the wider LCA runs smoother at low rpms and they want more durration to compensate to get the overlap into the effective range, this tends to cause some problems, like reversion, yes youll still have reversion with a tight LCA but the power comes on faster and the low rpm torque tends to be better look heres two nearly identical cams http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114681&lvl=2&prt=5 http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5 top makes a better street combo, the bottom makes a better race engine, look at the timing and figgure out WHY and youll be well on your way......BTW HINT cylinder pressure/piston location/scavaging

a reasonably well built concrete block garage normally falls in the $35-$60 a square foot range, depending on factors like the extent of the electric and plumbing work,& building codes ,material costs,labor,and area of the country, mine cost close to $55 a sq complete but then I did everything top notch and above code, but keep in mind theres some minimal set costs and its usually cheaper PER SQ FOOT to build a bigger garage up to about the 36 foot width where the truss costs and roof costs start to skyrocket, EXAMPLE lets say you wanted a 36f x 60f garage(2160 sq feet), vs a 46f x 46f (2116 sq ft) I can garantee a 46f x 46F without center support collums would cost significantly more

in order of importance (1)large 4 door (preferably 4x4)truck (daily parts chasing/ hunting/furniture moves/ shopping) (2)a corvette/ or similar hotrod to play with (modify, waste money on and relax with) (3)caddy/buick/lincoln to take trips (the first two COULD be used for this in some cases)

WHAT TAX RETURN??? ID be lucky to pay ZERO let alone get a refund....retired is (hell in some small ways) Ive never had a refund in the last 10 years

carbing an LT1 is simple and effective 24502574

looks great!, keep us advised as it gets completed! at least in my opinion,concrete block is so much nicer compared to wood /steel. BTW its going to be a huge help to your hobbys results (having a decent place to work) and no matter how big it is its just a touch smaller than IDEAL, trust me!

SO THATS what my problem was/is (retired ENGINEER)

each to his own! personally after visiting most states Id avoid anything on EITHER COAST,ESPECIALLY east of the mississippi river and north of north carolina, and ESPECIALLY ,CALIFORINIA, MASSACHUSETTES,NEW JERSEY

just another case of a CAR GUY,not thinking it thru carefully,(where you choose to live) why do you think I live in FLORIDA, winter here is when the temp hits 40F for 36 hours, yeah its hell, but we manage....we once had snow here , it melted instantly on ground contact, but hey, it snowed and the temps dipped into the 20F range, ask a few of the old guys they remember that HORRIABLE LONG 46HR winter 20 plus years ago or this typical winter day

IM already doing that FULL TIME, but I refuse to be rushed or charge more than a nominal fee, or deal with guys I can,t personally and locally deal with, so I can point out potential problems,improvements and discuss options, so its NOT a job its an obsesive hobby, I did it for a JOB for 35 years,and that was less than enjoyable, IM retired now!

"I need more cash!" ME TOO! and probably 99% of the guys here! DAMN I REALLY WISH I knew of some silly little job I could do from home that would RELIABLY bring in extra cash for the PROJECTS and TOOLS ID like to work/on/with a few hundred extra dollars a month could make a noticable differance in the projected finnish dates thats for sure!!!

way off