grumpyvette

one factor youll need to keep in mind is that compressor tanks NEED to be drained FREQUENTLY to lower the trapped moisture and air suppling your paint gun needs to be TOTALLY moisture FREE, youll need a DRIER, infact you may need two, seperated driers and Id suggest no less than 60 gallons on the tank size to keep the pressure consistant, while that might appear to be a P.I.T.A. youll think its great advice if you paint just once with wet air mixed in the paint TRUST ME!!! HOW DO I KNOW? lets just say I painted a 55 chevy back in about 1970,and it looked great for about 4 days..........

"454 Casull 250 gr. Super-X® JHP Handgun Ballistics Distance (yds)Velocity (fps)Energy (ft.lbs.)Mid-Range Trajectory (in.) Muzzle-------1300---------938------------------------------- 50------------1151--------735---------------------0.7-------- 100-----------1047---------608---------------------3.2------- When you are talking speed are you talking at the muzzle or further out. I know when I loaded shotgun shells I measured about 6' out from the muzzle. Samething for handguns? Also what is midrange trajectory? How far its drops?" personally ID sellect the heavier bullet weight of 275-300 grains at 1250-1300fps, the IDEA is to blend the deep penetration with the lowest potential recoil, while useing the large flat nose and weight to punch a hole clear thru once the bullet can reach and destroy the vitals from almost any angle, theres no real advantage to more speed, I generally sight in at 50 yards at 3" high, once you can keep 2"-3" groups at 50 yards swap to 100 yards, you should keep 5"-6" MAX groups http://www.shooting-center.de/casull_lade_e.htm 300 gr bullet H4227 27.0 1494 41.400 30.0 1634 53.700 H110 28.5 1589 44.400 31.5 1780 55.000 HS 7 16.0 1111 33.400 22.0 1501 50.200 HS 6 15.0 1084 31.100 19.0 1450 46.200 HP 38 8.5 820 32.000 11.5 1076 43.200 W296 28.0 1537 41.000 31.0 1750 54.800 W571 16.0 1107 33.000 22.0 1494 50.700 W540 15.0 1100 32.600 19.0 1440 46.000 W231 8.5 824 31.800 11.5 1062 42.400 2400 24.0 1461 42.000 27.0 1656 55.000 Blue Dot 16.0 1240 39.100 19.0 1534 54.000 Unique 10.0 1049 30.600 14.0 1275 38.600 Bullseye 6.5 804 20.100 9.5 1026 33.400 AA No. 9 20.0 1177 17.100 27.5 1625 51.900 AA 1680 31.1 1346 27.300 34.5 1622 54.500 N110 24.0 1505 34.500 26.6 1634 49.380 N120 27.0 1290 29.300 31.0 1491 43.760 H110 31.5 1625 = factory load http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=0004482083 Muzzle yards- trajectory 25........ 1.9 50........ 2.9 75........ 2.3 100 .......0.0 125 .......-4.1 all easily hit with a center chest hold

the 45 colt factory loads on the light side but will work out to about 30 yards, the 454 casulls far more than required, get someone to load for you or you can reload the fired cases,a hard cast gas check bullet weighing about 250-300 grains to about 1250-1300fps, is the goal, and your recoil will be reduced noticably , yet the effectiveness will be fine http://www.shooting-center.de/casull_lade_e.htm Id be looking at 16 grains of BLUE DOT under any well designed 250-300 grain hard cast as a starting place

I used to carry,a 45 cal witness as my personal carry gun for several years, dead on accurate) I now carry a custom glock 10 mm with a 6" jarvis barrel BTW I generally prefer my DAN WESSON SUPER MAG, if shots will be long range (below a picture of the 8" version,mine have 10" barrels) think about this, a 445 super mag can fire 44 mag ammo in addition to the full power 445 super mag ammo, similar to the 45 colt being available as a low power option in the 454 cassul. the cost for both bullets and brass is lower anf the performance on game is impossiable to tell apart, as you can push a 320 grain cast slug to 1590fps at LESS PRESSURE than a similar 454 cassul brass lasts longer and its cheaper, trajectorys flatter and recoil levels lower, not by much, but the differance exists, theres no reason to get a more powerful caliber in my opinion once you can relieably drive a bullet thru any game animal your likely to hunt and nearly any reasonable angle or range, which the 445 super mag will do! http://www.sixguns.com/tests/tt445sm.htm http://www.starlinebrass.com/pricelist.html http://www.sixguns.com/range/beyondthe44.htm

these are two presses I use this one loads rifle calibers also, great precision but slow,best over all value http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=000449356 these are much more expensive but spits out loaded cartridges like popcorn out of a machine, once youve got one you wonder what what took you so long to get one http://dillonprecision.com/template/p.cfm?maj=24&dyn=1&cookieClean=1

one point thats not been brought out is that bullet constuction has a huge effect on the pistols effectiveness. properly sized and lubed cast bullets having significantly less friction, can be pushed noticably faster than jacketed bullets of the same weight,up to the point barrel leading becomes a problem, this velocity varies but about 2000fps is getting into the limit, its best to keep the velocitys slightly milder and the bullet weights heavier http://www.sixguns.com/tests/tt445sm.htm http://www.sixguns.com/tests/tt44mag.htm http://www.sixgunner.com/Articles/RevolverHunting/CastBulletsOnGame/tabid/350/Default.aspx http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=000152660650 bullets like this with a good sectional density (heavy weight to dia.) and having a wide flat (MELPLAT) NOSE tend to cut a clean hole and penetrate deeply, properly made cast bullets expand slowly BTW a good cheap alloy can be made from wheel weight scrap melted down with 5%-7% by weight of 60/40 lead/tin solder added to the mix, and size the slugs 1 thousand larger than bore dia. heres two known accurate and effective mould for that 454 cassul http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=0004482083 http://www.neihandtools.com/catalog/index.html I think youll find H110 or BLUE DOT powder will work well on the mid pressure lods

while the 454 cassuls,and raging bull revolvers a nice combo, I think youll very quickly find that you need to handload to get an accurate and EFFECTIVE yet reasonably LOW RECOIL load, and like Ive stated above POWER is no substitute for exact shot placement and a 270-300 grain bullet will prove very quickly to be more that adequate on deer. sure you can zip a 270 grain slug out at 1600 plus, but it won,t be any more effective that a 1200-1300fps load on deer, but the recoil will be far more violent, you may want to use 45 colt ammo here info you need http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/deptsearch1x.asp?dept=%52%65%6C%6F%61%64%69%6E%67 http://www.midwayusa.com/ebrowse.exe/browse?tabid=1 http://www.starlinebrass.com/ btw I own a 10" dan wesson 445 super mag, I can easily push 310 grain bullets 1570 fps, I hunt with a 1200 fps load simply because theres been no advantage on deer to the higher speed loads and the recoil is easily double with the faster loads, keep that in mind, a 44 mag could be loaded to similar velocity and is just as effective(one shot in the correct place results in a very dead deer)

what ever you choose keep in mind these factors (1)ONLY PRECISELY PLACED HITS get the job done CORRECTLY (2)YOUR LEVEL OF SKILL DEPENDS ON CONSTANT AND SIGNIFICANT AMOUNTS OF PRACTICE (3) power is no substitute for correct shot placement, and BULLET CONSTUCTION MATTERS (4) know your REALISTIC ACCURATE SHOT PLACEMENT RANGE LIMITS and DON,T TAKE SHOTS BEYOND THEM (5)make DAMN SURE OF YOUR TARGET, and WHATS BEYOND IT BEFORE FIRING (6)PRIDE YOURSELF ON GETTING IN CLOSE,AND PRECISELY PLACING A SINGLE PERFECT SHOT, LONG RANGE, LOW PERCENTAGE SHOTS , are the mark of an AMATUER

"Ok I know we have some real gun nuts on the board " guilty as charged OK Ive handgun hunted DEER for years,shot placement and bullet construction has far more to do with your results than any reasonable caliber choice, the 357 mag will flat out kill deer, its effective and acurate in the correct pistol, Id suggest a model 686 smith in 8 3/8 barrel length, I had no problems killing deer for several years with one, results were always similar, the deer run after impact but drop within 30-100 yards IF you did your part and placed the bullet correctlybut its just not the best choice simply because, at 100 yards it lacks the punch necessary to really impress the deer on impact., the 44 mag generally has the advantage, deer sometimes drop in a few yards, but mostly run 30-60 yards the pistol and the loads you choose has a huge effect on the recoil levels single actions like the ruger super blackhawk kick or recoil a great deal differantly than a well designed double action, because the barrel is higher in relation to your hand and they tend to be lighter in weight. now Ive hunted with revolvers in calibers 480 ruger,454 cassul , 44 mag, 445 super mag ,10mm auto , and a 30/30 and a 375 win caliber, contender if you go with a scope the contender in 30/30s a decent choice, hand loading your own ammo is a huge advantage, personally out of all of them I like EITHER MY DAN WESSON 10" BARREL 44 mag REVOLVER, or the 10" barrel 44 mag S&W REVOLVER ,I have, loaded with hard cast 280 grain bullets over 21 grains of H110 http://www.neihandtools.com/catalog/index.html 44 cal 357 cal 40 cal/10mm before you get started lets make a few things clear, NO HANDGUN will ALWAYS or even frequently drop deer on impact, they WILL USUALLY RUN a short distance, and at times give little or no indication they were hit, your target is or should be the arteries over the heart the big DAN WESSON REVOLVER weights a good deal more than the S&W and makes shooting a 44 mag easy, don,t get crazy thinking you need extreme velocitys, a 280 grain hard cast bullet at 1200fps zips clear thru deer at 100 yards in most cases http://home.mn.rr.com/deerfever/Anatomy.html hit there, and the deers dead in seconds, he may run a short distance but with those hard cast 280 grain caliber 44 slugs zipping clear thru and a massive leak on both sides he will be reasonably easy to trail for the few yards necessary. now if you use a 357 mag youll get similar results, the distance traveled tends to be slightly longer and the blood trail kind of skimpy but the results are a dead deer with either caliber PROVIDED YOU CAN SHOOT WELL . ID ALSO POINT OUT AN OPTION http://www.taurususa.com/products/product-details.cfm?id=194&category=Revolver the taurus raging bull in a 8" stainless IN CALIBER 41 MAG youll have noticably less recoil than a 44 mag but almost the same power levels, and these are well made revolvers, yeah taurus USED to be junk 20 years ago , but they improved so much that they are not even similar to the crud they used to sell, Id buy and use one of these vs MY S&W or DAN WESSON if I was starting today and didn,t own my current pistols BTW I find scopes to be a TOTAL P.I.T.A. they make carry and use of the pistol slower and heavier, and with practice you can shoot a revolver into a 4"-6" paper plate or a deers heasrt/lung area at 100 yards or less with ease from a sitting or rested shot, but most of your shots tend to be in the 50-70 yard range,(especially in heavy cover or from a tree stand) and with practice a two hand hold, and a carefully squeezed off shot is accurate enough every last time now IM sure your thinking "WHY DOES HE USED HARD CAST VS JACKETED BULLLETS" to be a good shot takes ALOT of PRACTICE, youll need ALOT of ammo and casting your own bullets saves A TON OF CASH! PLUS most jacketed bullets expand too fast and don,t exit, leaving little or no blood trail and the deer STILL RUN a short distance, Ive found both the accuracy and the effect on impact better with the hard cast

BTW that having the rocker studs pull loose or having the poly locks come loose is usually and easily ,totally avoided with the use of both screw in rocker studs and a matched stud girdle that clamps to the adjustment rocker nuts http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP%2D134%2D7101&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D141010&N=700+%2D108204+115&autoview=sku since its reasonably easy and cheap to do its basically a great idea, most machine shops can cut rocker base on the heads and thread the base and install the threaded studs in a day and usually for about $80-$120, not including the studs or guide plates if those are needed.....about this time those aluminum heads with the guide plates, better port design,screw in studs, better springs with more clearance, the far better flow numbers and less weight should start looking like the BARGIN they are! http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=78237 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TFS%2D30400002&N=700+115&autoview=sku

yes and no! removing ones usually easy enough, slide a 1/2 drive deep well,spark plug socket thats about 1/2" shorter than the stud over the stud , drop on a couple 3/8" fender washers,then tighten a rocker nut,on the sockets base, it will suck it right out of the head, getting it back in is not that simple on the engine, off the engine a hydrolic press makes installing a new one easy enought, but DON,T THINK ABOUT BEARING IT IN, youll CRACK THE HEAD or bend the stud, and it won,t be secure anyway,unless you pin it in place, most repair shops,that do replace them on the car pack the new stud in DRY ICE OVER NIGHT THEN WACK THEM INTO PLACE WITH A PLASTIC HAMMER WHILE HOLDING IT ALIGNED WITH PLIERS, personally ID get them all machined for the screw in type

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/frame.html?/Cylinder_Heads/sbc.html as the standard 170cc port size version comes from chevy they are PRESSED in studs VORTEC CYLINDER HEAD TECHNICAL INFORMATION Part Number: 12558060 Description: L31 with valves Material: Cast Iron Head Bolt Torque: 65 ft./lbs. Valvespring Seat: 1.300” O.D., 0.850” I.D. Valve-guide Seals: Viton rubber positive seals, total 0.450” retainer-to-seal clearance Combustion Chamber Volume: 64 cc Spark Plugs: Straight Heat Risers: No Valvesprings: Single wire with damper 1.235” O.D., 0.875” I.D. 75-pound seat pressure @ 1.700” installed height Coil-bind @ 1.150” Intake Bolt Pattern: Four bolts per side Rocker Arm Style: Self-Aligning Intake Runner Volume: 170 cc Valve Diameter: I: 1.94”, E: 1.50” Casting Numbers: 10239906 and 12558062 Max. Valve Lift: 0.420” which allows 0.030” retainer-to-seal Rocker Stud: Press-in, 3/8” diameter Spark-plug Style: 14 mm, ¾ reach, tapered seat chevy has just announced NEW versions of the vortec heads which are designed for increased flow and are similat to the FASTBURN heads but the new vortec 206cc heads are CAST IRON PART # 25534371 theres also a slightly improved 175cc version part# 25534351 these new heads are drilled and tapped for both old and new valve cover and both old and vortec style intakes, they have 2.00 intake and 1.55 exhaust valves and 65cc chambers http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0506_thunder/index1.html look 1/3 down the page for flow #s but before you get crazy... look at the DART PLATINUM IRON HEAD FLOW NUMBERS on this same page....a similarly priced aftermarket iron head http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chevy

my welding instructor in college , back in the 1960s used to say, frequently "a monkey could be trained to mig weld with properly set up equipment,... stick welding takes skill and practice, but its far from difficult once you get the idea and some practice,...even you idiots will manage.... tig takes some intelligence, too operate but can produce true works of art, in skilled hands, Ive got my work cut out getting some of you to that level"

if you don,t know the differance thats a GREAT QUESTION! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108912&highlight=tig

"Personally, ide stay away from the harborfreight china crap welders, go with a good name brand like miller, or buy a used one" good advice!!! most of the less expensive welders at harbor freight are lets say, usable but just barely....Ive been with my brother-in-law whos bought and returned two mig welders from harbor freight, both "worked" BARELY,we finaly got him a HOBART , it at least works reasonably well, but youll be far ahead buying a quality stick welder if moneys tight, it will do a decent job for about what a P.O.S. mig will cost

the bottom line here is that dropping the cash into at least three seperate diversified mutual funds and letting it ride while keeping an eye on the investments will do you a WHOLE LOT MORE GOOD than buying a few speed parts.....buy a few speed parts, play with the car and enjoy yourself, and work on the car, but invest at least 80% of that cash into your future

Im sure not a wizz at investing but I was smart enought to put 12% of my pay checks for 35 years into stocks and many other investments,like mutual funds I lost my A$$ at times on stocks but the mutual funds did ok, nothing spectacular, but I did Ok, and retired at age 53, mostly due to being forced due too massive back/leg/ankle injurys, which Im slowly getting used too. (and you wondered how/why I have the time to post so often) its because I can,t be walking around for more than a very limited time/distance currently or for the last several years while I recover

my wife TOLLERATES ,but seldom supports the corvette/more hp addiction, I think she looks on it more as a mild mental flaw in my character

vashonz don,t be silly and waste the money, split it up into three seperate mutual funds and sit on it, once it increases in a few years youll be very glad you didn,t blow the cash! IVE been slowly gathering the parts to install a killer big block in my vette, I could get stupid and just pull the cash out of a mutual fund or cd but then what do I live on in 20-30 years or use for emergencys cars are a HOBBY not your main focus in life! your family long term security comes FIRST

ID suspect the main problems NOT ther ferrari but the guy driving its skills

"but i think i'm Smarter. Does that sound Conceited?" HELL no!, thats how you/ me and most guys learned this hobby, you either jump in with both feet (SINK OR SWIM, and learn the hard expensive way) or hang out with more experianced guys willing to teach you,the pitfalls and fine points, its really not too hard to assemble a really nice engine IF you do the RESEARCH before starting and FULLY understand what your doing...thats one reason I stress the engine build CD and links posted above are a very good referance, youll be far ahead doing the research and taking addvantage of the available resources

MIKE thats what the forums FOR! to discuss ,what WILL or WON,T WORK and WHY, the potential advantages and problems and how the guys can avoid or over come the little problems and mis-matches that ALWAYS occure frankly IM in AWE of your photograffic skills and if it was my engine ID have looked into longer pushrods and spaced the rocker base higher vs cutting the bolts, or having the rocker base machined to clear, IF AFTER MEASURING that PROVED TO BE FEASABLE, and yeah, IM well aware that might require longer valves, differant springs, spring seats and lash caps, or machining or drilling the area abover the bolt head for clearance, to get the clearances necessary to clear the bolt heads, or perhaps swaping to studs with nuts on those 8 locations, stepping back, and thinking it thru is usually better than jumping into a quick fix,(ALL THOUGH , IVE CERTAINLY FIXED and OCCASIONALLY SCREWED UP MY SHARE OF PARTS over the years)

Block: 4 Bolt Bored .060 Crank: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0895784&rd=1,1 Rods:5.7" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...2803&rd=1&rd=1 Cam: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku Pistons: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...8533&rd=1&rd=1 Rockers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...2850&rd=1&rd=1 Springs: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3446&rd=1&rd=1 Pushrods: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4968&rd=1&rd=1 Heads: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3839&rd=1&rd=1 Valve Covers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4461&rd=1&rd=1 Intake Manifold: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku Carb: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=EDL%2D1405&N=700+4294 925239+4294839063+400065+115&autoview=sku "I have all parts EXCEPT the Rods Currently. The Rods are on their way already also." its the little stuff that adds up... parts not listed, hopefully you have but just didn,t list all the engine gaskets valve spring retainers & keepers carb mounting bolts carb linkage oil pan with gasket front cover water pump flex plate harmonic damper belt pullies timing gear/chain set cam button lifters dipstick with tube t-stat and houseing oil pump oil pump drive shaft oil pump pick-up all the bolts/fasteners and SEALANTS the freeze plug and oil passage plugs ignition & distributor ignition wires spark plugs engine bearings assorted machine work and ballancing the rotating assembly hoses & belts motor mounts pushrod guide plates & rocker studs(may not be on heads) internal magnets, & windage screen (optional) thats why I usually suggest buying a cheap replacement crate motor with a warrantee when power levels are to be low, its a good starting point that supplies many of those parts, and I don,t want to be a jerk, but how can you sellect the pushrods without checking the geometrys correct for the length needed? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL%2D10067353&N=700+1009+115&autoview=sku BTW, this may prove interesting reading http://www.rustpuppy.org/chp/Welcome.html http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html how to asemble an engine basics on video

btw that OFFY is one of the LEAST EFFECTIVE low and mid rpm range INTAKE DESIGNS EVER, I tested one about 15 years ago on a 454 and lost 50 plus ft lbs of tq over the dual plane edelbrock, and NEVER reached a higher power level even at 6500rpm "Not wanting to thread jack. Grumpy, could we take this discussion to the thread linked below which has more details on possibly using as a low profile super charger manifold. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115326 Yeah, in looking at this manifold, I would NOT use it on any N/A small block, especially with the current selection in intakes available. The drivers side water passage leading the thermostat is also quite restrictive. What is your opinion of using this intake for a custom low boost roots type super charger, cutting out the middle web and also welding on injector bungs for multi-port EFI? I realize it isn’t ideal, but for a custom “low profile Super charger intake do you think it will work at least “ok” with its huge plenum and its very short 1”-1 ½” long runners? " I had no intention of screwing with the other thread,when I posted that! I LOVE the concept of the bolt on supercharger!! the use of the supercharger on that intake manifold will in all probability result in a good boost in performance as the flow characteristics under boost are totally differant than N/A, where the runner length is more important, but the intake will still probably result in a less than ideal fuel/air distribution pattern, Id get it tunned as well as you can then check the header primairy tubes with an acurate IR TEMP GUN, "Features & Applications: Effortlessly take non-contact (infrared) temperature measurements at the touch of a button. This high temperature infrared laser thermometer measures up to 1832ºF with 50 to 1 distance to target ratio that allows you to measure smaller surface areas at greater distances. The built-in laser pointer increases target accuracy while the backlit LCD and handy pushbuttons combine for convenient, ergonomic operation. The unit also features a high resolution of 0.1º up to 199.9º, automatic Data Hold and auto power-off." http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.3461/id.22/subID.177/qx/default.htm and an air/fuel meter probe for differances in temp and A/F ratio which would indicate lean/rich mix variance

btw that OFFY is one of the LEAST EFFECTIVE low and mid rpm range INTAKE DESIGNS EVER, I tested one about 15 years ago on a 454 and lost 50 plus ft lbs of tq over the dual plane edelbrock, and NEVER reached a higher power level even at 6500rpm