grumpyvette

yeah, this hobbys rarely got a "FINISHED CAR" theres always "a few more things that need to be FINISHED" or corrected, or changed and as jmortensen , stated " PICKING UP some useful skills along the way " and getting both more tools and higher level skills are the REAL benefits, NOT finished cars

well the first thing Id suspect as a contributing factors are a combination of the high viscosity oil "that "Mobil 1 15-50 " (as a 10W 30 is slightly more likely to flow thru and keep the bearing clearances supplied with enough oil to COOL the bearings.) and high valve spring pressures placing a significant load on those cam bearings let me point out this chart now obviously theres other factors,and since I didn,t build it or check the clearances I can,t really find the cause without knowing a good deal more , and that cracked main cap tends to make me suspect vibration/ballance and crank alignment problems are also involved, and your thinking about starting over with a differant block may be a good valid idea.....but ID strongly suggest a AFTERMARKET block as they are a good deal stiffer/stronger

duplicate

absolute proof that you can take excessive amounts of SERIOUS DRUGS , over LONG PERIODS and still work in a BODY SHOP, and get the parts to match up>>>> well SORTA

QUENCH?? http://www.100megsfree4.com/dictionary/car-dicq.htm quench area: A zone in the combustion chamber where the piston at top dead center is very close to the cylinder head. Because the piston and cylinder head is cooler than the unburned part of the fuel-air mixture (i.e., end gas), they pull the heat from the end gas. Because the end gas is now cooler, detonation is quenched or reduced. However, the process does form unburned hydrocarbons. SQUISH An area in the combustion chamber of some engines where the piston squishes or squeezes part of the fuel-air mixture at the end of the compression stroke. As the piston approaches top dead center, the mixture is pushed out of the squish area and this promotes turbulence, further mixing of the fuel-air mixture and more efficient combustion run less than about .035 thousands and at high rpm levels the pistons might hit the cylinder heads, run more than about .044 thousands the QUENCH effect of forceing the fuel air mix to the center of the cylinder from the cylinders edge area looses both speed and effectiveness, remember the quench area must be so tight that virtually all the fuel/air mix is forced (squished) into the center area and none is allowed to burn untill its squirted into the burn area increaseing turbulance and burn efficiency in theory the much better quench, combined with the shorter more compact area the flame front needs to cover and the far higher turbulance combine to allow more of the pressure to build AFTER the crank passes TDC on the end of compression and begining of the power stroke its mostly an advantage in that you get a more even and FASTER burn in the cylinder and less chance of detonation, simply because both the lower time and faster pressure curves favor the ignition flame front vs detonation look, it takes approximately 40 thousands of a second for the flame from the ignition to cross a 4.25" bore,at low rpms and still takes about 15 milliseconds at high RPM due to the much faster movement of the compressed fuel air mix in the cylinders, lets look at what that means if the chevy plug is located 4/5ths of the way to one side thats a time of about 32 thousands for the pressure to build as the flame travels 3.4" in the chevy but in a compact combustion chamber it could only take the cylinder flame front less than 10-20 thousands of a second to travel acrossed the combustion chamber for a complete burn at low rpms, this of course speeds up as the swirl and turbulance increase with increased engine RPMs but the ratios stay similar. this results in more useable energy WORKING on the piston AFTER IT PASSES TOP DEAD CENTER ON THE POWER STROKE. BUT MODERN WEDGE combustion chambers use increased QUENCH to speed the flame front and lower the burn time combined with a smaller combustion chambers. the differance may be easier to grasp if you think of the quench area as a significant part of the total combustion chamber voluum,thats forcing its potential fuel/air mix into the central combustion chamber as a jet of highly compressed F/A mix, like the differance between lighting a cup of gasoline by simply placing it next to a camp fire vs throwing it violently into a camp fire look at this chart http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf keep in mind that the cylinder pressure starts, builds to a peak and drops off all before the piston moves more than about 1/2 inch away from TDC and that if your wasteing 10-20 degrees of rotation compressing the burning mix in a slow to ignite combustion chamber your wasteing engine power http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/ http://naca.larc.nasa.gov/reports/1939/naca-tm-914/ http://www.me.gatech.edu/energy/ICEngines/8_CylinderCombustionProcesses.pdf http://www.nedians.8m.com/Comp_IC.html http://mb-soft.com/public2/engine.html [ LOOK CLOSELY AT THESE PICTURES you only have QUENCH if theres a flat area on the piston that mates to a matching flat area on the combustion chamber roof, on these pistons dual quench areas throw the compressed fuel/air mix to the center from the twin quench areas notice, if used with this head, that only one side would have a fairly large and EFFECTIVE QUENCH area ,(the side away from the spark plug) things to read http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/ http://www.theoldone.com/archive/quench-area.htm http://racehelp.com/article_racing-10.html http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

IF your in this hobby long enought your bound to get cuts ( some minor some major) the goal is to limit the potential damage thru the process of THINKING thru your actions BEFORE you screw up, you tend to learn this LESSON, thru EXPERIANCE & PAIN I.E. SCREWING UP! yeah I learned the HARD WAY!, Ive still got all my fingers ETC. but I sure have the STITCHS and SCARS to prove I started off STUPID and only gained respect for "WHAT COULD HAPPEN" if I screwed up!! "WHAT COULD HAPPEN... if this TOOL FAILS" thru experiance!! one reason I stress use of (4) 12 ton jack stands, on level concrete with ramps STILL placed under the cars wheels and 8 ton rated engine cranes with 4 ton rated chains, serious swivels,fire extinguishers on location,blowproof scatter shields around clutches and staying out from under the heavier components. and use of the better welders,ETC. getting CHEAP! when your life or the ability to walk,ETC. COULD BE THE COST, if something were to FAIL, IS INSANE........think 400% over the MAX possiable stress levels ,MINIMUM safety cushion,on the rated loads for ANY component used

you guys just AMAZE ME with your computer drafting & image display skills

hydrolic lifts are more fun to watch

jmortensen if you think metalic dust in the gas works you need to try CARBORUNDUM paste valve grinding compound added to your OIL, it almost instantly increases the bearing clearances, increases oil flow,lowers oil flow resistance thru the engine, increases valve guide clearances. loosens rockers, pollishes lifter bores and generally increases oil flow everywhere why have all that power robbing friction when smply adding a single $4 tube to your oil will remove a good deal of the contact area between the cylinder walls and rings

a PROPERLY set up and built 4 post lift is great, but keep in mind that to work on the brakes,suspension etc. youll need a sliding bridge jack, to access the brakes/wheels while the cars up on that lift, now that adds to the cost. I was originally looking at this lift http://eagleequip.com/page/EE/PROD/LI-EFP/HD-12SS but adding a sliding bridge jack... http://eagleequip.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RJ-45&Category_Code=LI-FP-OP&Product_Count=7 pushed the price up significantly, plus I went out and looked at about a dozen shops, most had two post lifts........the reasons given were more useable floor space when it was not in use, easier access to the wheels,and exhaust no long platform in the way under the wheels when working on suspension lower cost all four wheels are easily accessable both doors can be accessed(some 4 post lifts don,t allow the pass door to open) I will eventually get both types of lift in the shop, because the 4 post is better for alignments and welding roll cages,etc. but after WORKING ON BOTH TYPES, and talking extensively with the mechanics at almost a dozen corvette shops, I think your best value is the QUALITY two post "Have you come across any drawbacks to the 2 post lift you bought?" well that depends on your view on lifts, its certainly easier to drive onto a 4 post than swinging the arms and positioning the car on a two post lift, but once its up, a two post is GREAT! IM GLAD I WENT THIS ROUTE BTW IT HELPS A GREAT DEAL to install a lazer garage parking guide , it allows you to exactly locate the car without getting out and checking http://shop.vendio.com/Brandsonsale/item/793788710/?s=1147255202 you simply pull in untill the lazer dot locates on the dash center and your located exactly correct for the lift arms "Did you install it yourself? Were the floor bolts put in with the concrete or after?" NO! the bolts were DRILLED inserted in MY 8" thick 3500psi concrete slab AFTER the garage was built, and altho I could have easilt installed it my self I HAD the distributor install it, theres no sence in having a total garauntee if they might say any problems were caused due to installation errors my garage was built and the floor poured SPECIFICALLY for and KNOWING that I was installing a lift, while most floors are poured 2"-3" thick out of 2000psi concrete I had my garage built with a 8" thick MINIMUM floor useing 3500psi concrete, the techs installing the lift even commented that they had never seen a floor concrete that thick or hard, the base is fairly large (about 12" x 20") and theres (8 ) 7/8" expansion bolts EACH rated at over 10 tons holding EACH base to the floor, I asked the techs installing it and EVERY SHOP I visited if they had ever seen a lift tip, not one person I talked with, mentioned EVER even hearing of a lift that was dealer installed having a problem notice even in crappy 2000psi concrete the rated loads http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/thunderstud-wedge/technical-specifications.htm "How tall is your ceiling? If I have a stock 2003 f-150 supercrew 4x4 on the lift, do you think it would all fit under your ceiling?" my ceiling 16" tall floor to rafters,(the pictures somewhat deceptive, theres a good 4-to 5 feet of room over the lift ,even thou it looks like theres less) and IVE had two large vans on my lift now with NO PROBLEM, and keep in mind that theres TWO EXTENDED VERIONS WITH MORE OVERHEAD CLEARANCE AVAILABLE http://www.ben-pearson.com/9000si.shtml Specifications PART # MODEL DESCRIPTION PRICE 90058 9000SI 9,000 lb. straight (w/ stack-pads) $3295.00 90068 9000SI EH-1 9,000 lb. straight 1' EXT (w/ stack-pads) $3495.00 90069 9000SI EH-2 9,000 lb. straight 2' EXT (w/ stack-pads) $3595.00 they DO HAVE MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE LIFTS http://www.ben-pearson.com/10000bsa.shtml I JUST BOUGHT THE BEST I COULD AFFORD

this should help ID STRONGLY SUGGEST NOT BUYING A CHINESE BUILT LIFT AND BUYING FROM AN AMERICAN MANUFACTURER /KEEP IN MIND THAT PARTS AVAILABILITY IN THE FUTURE AN SERVICE IS FAR MORE IMPORTANT THAN SAVING A FEW BUCKS ON THE UP FRONT COST Auto lifts http://www.autolift.org/ http://www.autolift.org/purchase_considerations.pdf http://www.geminilift.com/ http://www.ben-pearson.com/automotive-lifts.shtml http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/racks/index.htm http://www.challengerlifts.com/products.shtml www.directlift.com www.backyardbuddy.com www.autolifts.com http://www.westernhoist.com/ www.stingerlifts.com www.doublepark.net www.mohawklifts.com www.autolifters.com http://www.bendpak.com/ http://www.bendpak.com/product_info.isg?products_id=881 http://www.rotarylift.com/ http://eagleequip.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=LI ok having just gone thru this , Id point out that theres a HUGE differance in the REPLACEMENT PARTS availability and TECH SUPPORT availability and getting the lift installed correctly between the americam made and chinese built lifts, you probably DON,T WANT a 12,000 lb lift unless you excluesively work on larger trucks as the lift arms may not have the necessary clearance to use on low slung cars a 9000 lb lift will handle almost all personal cars/trucks heres what I finally bought and had installed, keep in mind that the higher the lifts weight rateing the larger the arms need to be and the more difficult it will be to use on low groound clearance cars like corvettes/camaros ETC. and youll rarely find personal cars/trucks over 6000lbs in weight with most being well under 4000-4500lbs heres the lift I purchased, I felt it was the best value, HAD THE BEST SERVICE SUPPORT AND BEST ACCESS UNDER THE CAR, ACCESS TO THE WHEELS, TRANSMISSION,EXHAUST, etc. http://www.ben-pearson.com/9000si.shtml

you can HARDLY go wrong with something like that for the price

your NOT CHEAP, your probably semi- BROKE like most guys in this hobby, simply because theres ALWAYS tools and PARTS you need that cost more than you can easily afford due to other more important necesssities like running a family home. look in your local news paper CONSTANTLY.. lookin the BARGIN TRADER MAGAZINES,ATTEND SWAP MEETS AND CAR SHOWS,ASK ABOUT DEALS AT MACHINE SHOPS (youll be suprised at the number of good deals in used welders that youll see in a years time,) shops upgrade or go out of business, guys move, get divorced, ETC. just be sure what your getting, condition,and prices of new stuff. and that what you get is from a major company where parts annd service are available HOBART MILLER LINCOLN ESB and I ASSUME YOUR AWARE THAT THERES A USED/RECONDITIONED WELDER SUPPLY SOURCE, and most WELDING SUPPLY STORES TAKE IN TRADES THAT THEY SELL AFTER RECONDITIONING http://www.weldingmart.com/reconditioned.htm http://www.weldplus.com/welderlist.asp http://www.surplusrecord.com/srg/018098.htm http://www.surplusrecord.com/srg/018293.htm http://search.ebay.com/welders_W0QQfromZR8QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQssPageNameZWLRS

detonation is usually the result of BOTH the effects of pressure and HEAT, combined, that allow the pressure rise in the cylinder from either the flame front,(spark plug ignition) moving across the cylinder to self ignite the far edge of the combustion chamber in an uncontrolled burn resulting in a sudden pressure spike. or just the combined effects of heat and pressure to ignite the a/f mix (like a diesel) so while the cylinders cool (below certain ignition thresh hold limits, due to octane) the mix won,t normally detonate. so yes, if the cylinders cool enought you can normally run compression levels that will not detonate untill the heat level build sufficiantly, but keep in mind that HEAT builds FAST. one method of controlling detonation is to COOL the cylinders temp, (water or alcohol injection, added to the a/f mix lowers the burn temps) or retarding the ignition(lowers the cylinders pressure curve) http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcrob/rt-fuel2.html

you might also think about if youve used alot of injector cleaner products or if the engines starting too burn oil, (rings, valve seals) as alot of residue on the o2 sensors tends to make them run hotter just like the CATS under those conditions

"Does this graph imply that an engine with excessive dynamic compression at operating temps will run perfectly fine if it has just been cranked up (cold engine), right before it reaches that critical temperature point on the graph for the octane used?"' either I don,t understand the QUESTION,(which is easily possiable) or YOU DON,T UNDERSTAND exactly what DYNAMIC COMPRESSION IS!.........what I THINK your asking is can an engine with enought extra durration run fine with high compression at higher temps ,than an engine built identical compression levels with a lower durration cam when both have exactly the same STATIC compression ratio....., the answer is YES, if you bleed off enought cylinder pressure by delaying the intake valves close point you can run much higher static compression levels...........but Id also point out that that increased durration tends to make the engine run like crap in the lower rpm ranges and idle badly if its taken too far, and you need a higher stall speed and higher NUMERICALLY...IE , like swapping from 2.57:1 to 4.11:1) rear gears to opperate effectively in that cams effective rpm band DUE to that extra durration and overlap you need to understand it before selecting a combos components the differance between STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO AND DYNAMIC COMPRESSION RATIO is where the piston is in the cylinder when the valves close and the piston can accually start compressing the REMAINING VOLUUM IN THE CYLINDER VS the STATIC COMPRESSION THAT ASSUMES THE PISTON STARTS COMPRESSING THE INSTANT IT LEAVES BOTTOM DEAD CENTER AND STARTS UPWARD ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE! let me try and explain, the short version is that the PISTON COMPRESSES NOTHING untill BOTH VALVES ARE CLOSED, .......thats the only compression ratio that matters,.... since its the only compression ratio the engine ever sees. static compression is simply the differance between the cylinder volume at BOTTOM DEAD CENTER(BDC) and its compressed volume at TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC), into the combustion chambers,... dynamic compression takes into account that on the pistons upward compression stroke the valves have not yet closed and nothing gets compressed by the piston untill they do, that of course depends on the cam and rockers, pistons and connecting rods, the cylinder voluum, the rod/stroke ratio, ETC.,used, in the combo, and the rpm levels to some extent BTW, ALUMINUM HEADS can usually operate at a higher dynamic compression simply because ALUMINUM releases heat to the coolant much faster than iron, its the lower heat levels that remain in the cylinder that help prevent detonation..when you increase the dynamic compression the heat levels in the heads combustion chamber rise , the differance in the RATE heat leaves the cylinder allows a slightly higher dynamic compression level from aluminum before the same HEAT levels are REACHED & MAINTAINED in the combustion chambers heres a calculator for static cpr, which you need to figure first http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html or http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calccr.htm or http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/compression/compression.shtml let me point out a few things first look at this chart http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf then lets assume your 350 sbc engine has a static compression ratio of 11:1 but youve installed this cam http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browsePar...lvl=2&prt=5 looking at the cam specs we see that the effective stroke is not the 3.48" that the static compression ratio is measured from ,at BDC, BUT from about 2.6 inches from tdc where the valves close as the piston moves upward, so your true working compression is closer to 8.1:1 NOT 11:1 heres a longer more detailed explanation and access to the software to figure dynamic cpr with the cam your useing in your engine http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html http://www.diamondracing.net/cocalc.htm heres some differant calculators http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp2 http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/compression_ratio.php http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/compression/cranking_pressure.shtml average the results keep in mind that you can easilly run a stattic compressio of 11:1 with aluminum heads if you keep the cam timing in a range so that the DYNAMIC COMPRESSION is CLOSE TO 8:1 take the time to understand the concept,it VERY IMPORTANT read this http://www.diamondracing.net/cocalc.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/otto-c.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?acti...3117842f4eb4c49 http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/piston_position-c.htm http://www.iskycams.com/techtips.html#2003 http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showfla...true#Post397334 if cams are a mystery please take the time to read these, it will get you a good start http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (read LESSONs 1-8) http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/confusion.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95298/ http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm http://www.totalengineairflow.com/tech/valvelashing.htm http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/engine/Cam_Selection.html http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/101/Cam_Theory.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119736.htm http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html http://home.wxs.nl/~meine119/tech/camqa.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showfla...true#Post200511 http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html http://www.speedomotive.com/Building%20Tips.htm ] http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/ http://www.aera.org/Members/EngineTech/engine.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html

ITS rather UNREALISTIC to expect a GOOD welder to pay for itself on a single project....but youll easilly save many TIMES its cost over a few years if your seriously into car mods, and engine swaps , having a GOOD QUALITY welder at your garage, theres so many uses and hundreds of repairs, modifications,etc. that youll be able to do, vs farming out the work or buying new parts. that its really not an option if you do this type of work, (engine swaps) on a regular consistant basis. just check out what your local machine/welding shop wants to build that engine dolly vs what you can build it yourself for??? I seriously doubt they would consider building you one for under $40 even with you suppling the parts, it won,t take long at $40 here and $60 there to amortize the cost of a decent welder

Detonation vs power some of the major factors in your engines potential power, is the volumetric efficiency (how efficiently you fill and empty the cylinders) and the octane of the fuel used, compression ratio and detonation limits, With detonation, prevention the main factors are Ignition timing Quench FUEL OCTANE DCR and cylinder heat level you’ll be fairly safe if you stay under 8.5:1 dcr at 170f degrees 8.25 dcr at 180f degrees 7.8:1 dcr at 210f degrees and keep the quench in the .036-.043 range heres some differant calculators http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp2 http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/compression_ratio.php http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/compression/cranking_pressure.shtml average the results the numbers are for 92 octane premium gas run at a 14.7:1 a/f ratio BTW heres a VERY SIMILAR GRAPH [ ] http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm I won,t get into the extensive details of why, but heres what you can DO, (1) retard the cam 4 degrees, (this tends to reduce your dcr and lower cylinder temps due to slightly lower DCR) (2) add a pusher fan or in some way REDUCE your coolant temp, this tends to reduce the detonation tendency (3) richen the air/fuel ratio to about 12.7:1 this tend to increase power and reduce the potential for detonation due to cooler cylinder temps) (4) change the plug gap to .040, this tends (at least in theory)to reduce the plugs tip temp due to a lower electrical resistance of the spark jumping the gap) (5) add some fresh coolant,and flush the radiator and install a 160 degree t-stat, some water wetter or purple ice ,in that coolant might help richen up the mix to 12.5:1 for max power/tq vs low emmissions and you can cheat slightly as the cylinder temps go down slightly. keep in mind ALUMINUM absorbs and allows the transfer of heat to the coolant at a much faster rate, so your less likely to have cylinder temps raise into the detonation range as quickly. and it should be obvious that your igntion curve and spark strength will also effect results, personally Ive found the BETTER MSD multi strike ignitions keep the cylinders cleaner and less likely to detonate btw, reading material http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/Dynamic%20Compression%20Tech.htm http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm http://www.federal-mogul.com/cda/content/front/0,2194,2442_7359_7525,00.html http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/hotrodoctane.html http://www.sdsefi.com/meltdown.htm http://www.procharger.com/intercooled.shtml http://www.kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=36 http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/ http://racingarticles.com/article_racing-10.html http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0311em_power_squeeze/index.html 1985,1992,1996 vettes keep the rubber side down and the fiberglass off the guard rails

as the old saying goes "A FOOL AND HIS MONEY ARE SOON PARTED!!" only a complete moron would think magnets would have a huge effect on FUEL, thats NON-MAGNETIC, especially since every car on the planet would have one factory installed if it worked simply because MAGNETS are CHEAP! http://abclocal.go.com/wjrt/story?section=automotive&id=3654572

that depends on your needs and budget! you don,t need a huge expensive welder for most auto work, but its REALLY REALLY NICE to have at LEAST an AC/DC 180 AMP stick welder as the basic welder to start with.... and heres a sellection Ive used http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91887 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43550 HERES TWO I HAVE IN MY SHOP http://store.weldersplus.com/link2160-3.html http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/IronMan210.html HERES WHATS VERY LIKELY TO BE MY NEXT WELDER!! http://store.cyberweld.com/milsyn350lx2.html

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=14916&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C607%2C608%2C614&KickerID=234&KICKER this might give you some design ideas

and YET ONE MORE GOOD EXAMPLE of why EVERY SHOP NEEDS, A DECENT WELDER you can very easily weld up your own engine dolly from a few feet of 2" box steel and a set of old motor mounts in only a few minutes, add some cheap casters (4)and your done http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38711 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38710

DANA 36 vs DANA 44 The C-4 Dana 36 was the only axle available in 1984 Corvettes. In 1985, Chevrolet brought out the Dana 44 which was similar to the 80-82 Corvette axle, but not interchangeable. The Dana 44 axle is considerably stronger, but not indestructible. The Dana 36 and the Dana 44 (44's in some autos and all manuals) axles were used through 1996. The Dana 44 is much larger than the D36. The 44 has a larger, "beefier" carrier/components to handle larger (lower) ring and pinions, and increased torque. NOTICE THE LOCATION OF THE TOP CENTER BOLT HOLE ON THE DANA 36 THATS NOT ON THE DANA 44 REAR, thats a QUICK WAY TO TELL THEM APART 603967 GM 44 REAR 1980 CORVETTE 605172 GM 36 REAR 1984 CORVETTE 605180 GM 36 REAR 1984 CORVETTE 605220 GM 44 REAR 1985-87 CORVETTE 605239 GM 36 REAR 1984-86 CORVETTE 605260 GM 36 REAR 1985-87 CORVETTE 605321 GM 36 REAR 1988-90 CORVETTE 605322 GM 44 REAR 1989 1/2-90 CORVETTE 605365 GM 44 REAR 1988-89 CORVETTE 605417 GM 44 REAR 1990-90 1/2 CORVETTE 605490 GM 36 REAR 1990 1/2-96 1/2 CORVETTE 605491 GM 44 REAR 1990-96 1/2 CORVETTE 605492 GM 44 REAR 1990 1/2 CORVETTE Look at the size difference, especially at the case above the yokes: Dana 36 Dana 44 And visit ikerds.com Who were kind enough to supply the pics... heres more info on rears http://www.rocky-road.com/diffid.html http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/default_rearend.aspx

this is the stuff they were actually using with a caulking gun no less, so they could get GOBS OF SEALANT EVERYWHERE

always use the manufacturers suggested installation instructions, as some applications or gasket types REQUIRE differant lubes or sealants but heres a rought guide head bolts #5, dip clean dry thread in http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Tack_Gasket_Sealant.htm then insert and tq heads in place BTW this will work also http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Tack_Gasket_Sealant.htm head gaskets #3 main bolts #2 rod bolts #2 oil pump stud and nut #4 oil pan bolts #5 oil pan gasket #6 cam spocket bolts #4 timing cover gasket #6 timing cover bolts #1 intake bolts #1 intake gasket #6 thermostat housing bolts #5 thermostat housing gasket (also do you really need it) usually yes #6 Exhaust manifold/header bolts #1 Exhaust manifold/header gaskets #3 Water pump bolts #5 water pump gaskets #6 fuel pump #6 crank/damper bolt #1 Torque converter bolts #4 flywheel/flexplate bolts #4 bellhousing bolts #2 1 antiseize 2 oil or ARP thread lube 3 copper coat spray gasket sealer or apply dry in some cases (see manufactures suggestions) 4 loctite (red or blue depends on application ,read the lables) 5 http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Tack_Gasket_Sealant.htm 6 black high temp RTV use the correct stuff for the application, AND READ & FOLLOW THE DIRRECTIONS it prevents PROBLEMS http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants.htm