grumpyvette

if you can get the entire wire harness the swap to EFI should be time consuming but not that difficult,the 1989 engine should probably be the better option,but check the engine out, BECAUSE by 1989 many engines had roller cams (even some trucks) and some trucks had vortec heads, which are not an exact match to the earlier heads/intake pattern so you may need to stay with those truck heads if going with the EFI as to the cam choice that will depend to a large extent on the rear gear ratio,compression ratio and stall speed you match it too, so Id call CROWER or CRANE before & after the combos basics are sorted out to ask advice and only then sellect a cam first find out if the trucks 350 has a roller cam and which cylinder heads your dealing with and as Im sure your aware the TBI intake needs to be ported or replaced and theres gains to be had thru programing mods youll probably make significantly better power with a 4 barrel carb, but the TBI will make a nice driving combo on the street

in the long term ,, minor problems like that are just that minor , wasteing $500 0n a $110-$140 thousand dollar project is peanuts, I only wish ALL my problems in life were that minor, in fact Ill probably just give those shingles to someone locally building a garage as a friendly jesture

"Enterring from the pond side seemed awkward. Will you build it up and put a drive in?" the driveways COMING,and yeah Ill build the area up first, but 800 feet of concrete , 16 feet wide and a pad in front of the garage will cost me over $27,000 so its on hold till my budget allows "Did you consider metal building before going to block? What are the pros and cons of metal vs block. Thanks" I was looking at one of those steel kit garages before building my current CBS garage and while I could have built a larger garage for slightly less money and surely had it up quicker,(and it would have been an excellent garage,)than I finally built (36x74-2664 sq ) vs (40x80 3200sq)17% larger but the long term resale values over time made the decision for me while Im glad I did what I did I would have been far ahead cost wise to have gone the prefab route, my neighbor had a 40/80 built for slightly under $80,000, the metal buildings are considered as TEMP structures by the building department and most guys I know consider 30 years as the average lift span on the steel buildings altho many that are properly maintained last longer "How did the shingle count work out?" thats a SORE subject, I bought 39 sq of 50 year garauntee shingles at $79 a sq , the builder insisted I needed 6 more sqs ...I have 7 sq of those shingles in the garage left over!!!!!

well finally got the stucco the lift the bathroom installed in my new garage so Im advancing slowly YEAH! I went with the TWO post,RELUCTANTLY heres a older post from a couple days back explaining WHY Ive spent the last month extensively researching my lift purchase options ,(my budget allows up to a $4000 installed cost) first I refuse to buy a CHINESE MADE lift the lift I purchase must have some important feature,s it MUST be american made! ALI certified/validated by ETL http://autolift.org/ http://autolift.org/purchase_considerations.pdf BECAUSE IM GOING TO BE UNDER IT! and it must have all controls easily acessable from one single main location and have a local service company with parts both two and four post designs are/were extensively researched feature by feature and support/parts availability and service were very important factors. ive narrower the field considerably and much to my surprize this (BELOW) is the lift that currently looks like the winner, its american made and comes with a 5 year warrantee and its certified http://www.ben-pearson.com/9000si.shtml yeah! ITS a TWO post!, Im still looking for a 4 post that costs the same, and has the same features (american made) and I looked into every "lift failure" I could find, most accidents are either on CHINESE made LIFTS or envolve OPERATOR ERROR, since OPERATOR ERROR is not really a LIFT FAILURE UNLESS its a BADLY DESIGNED FEATURE that CAUSED THE PROBLEM, I took that into account also as some of you know I purchased a lift (ON-LINE/OFF THE INTERNET) last year and got charged but the lift never got shipped(FRAUD) luckly VISA reinbursed the cost after it was proven to be obviously a scam another reason I will only deal with a FLORIDA DEALER who will INSTALL,and maintain the lift I purchase it was close but sometimes its what they DON,T say thats important also, heres what the sites say.... I called several companys who could not or would not even tell me where I could inspect one of thier lifts in the area or tell me who was the local service company, or tell me they sold american made CERTIFIED LIFTS cost about $3000 installed Model: XL-9X Manufacturer: Bend-Pak NO LOCAL SERVICING DEALER Weight: 1395.lbs no mention of (Single point safety release ) 9,000 pound lifting capacity Narrow design Dual hydraulic cylinders Electric/hydraulic power system Large, 17" x 17" A36 steel base plate Self-lubricating Dura-Glide polyethylene bearing system Safety locks in each column spaced every 2-inches Automatic arm restraints Heavy-duty chain lifting system Low profile columns for low-ceiling applications Truck and van adapters standard ETL Approved cost about $3600 installed Ben Pearson's LOCAL SERVICING DEALER Ben Pearson's 9000SI Two-Post. ALI certified /validated by ETL Single point safety release Weight: 1700lbs Padded overhead shut-off bar 2-5/8" & 5" truck adapters included Extra long carriage for smooth lifting Convenient stack-pad storage rack on post Automatic engage and release arm restraint Extra large ultra-high molecular bearing blocks Low profile arms for low ground clearance Optional height extension kits for taller vehicles Clear floor design for convenient use of floor jacks now I called and talked to all the companys listed in the first post in this thread to get a feel for the sales/service,and ask questions on features but what clinched it between the two for me personally was calling both companys for locations where each had installed lifts,and finding and looking over both lifts at local shops, I found three shops with BEN PEARSON lifts, THEY WERE ALL VERY HAPPY,so happy they were braging about how trouble free they were! while the two shops I visited with the BEND PAC lifts were happy but found nothing to rave about, now Im not sure thats a valid source of info but it impressed me! since the local shops with the ben pearson lifts also mentioned the local dealer stops by or calls about once every month to check if they need service or shop tools (kind of like the MAC tool guys, the BEN PEARSON GUYS have a route) IVE pretty much narrowed the list at this point, Ill let you know how things work out! once I order and install a lift well I went and did it!. I had one of the local shops put my vette up on his lift, I checked it out, operated it,then I went home and I ordered the lift, it will be installed tomorrow (now thats fast)and total cost will be about $3600(expected) my floor slab is 6"-8" thick 3500psi concrete so it will have a good base for the (16) 7/8" anchor bolts __________________

"Think about it... With mig welders You've got two knobs... The wire speed and the voltage/ heat and you've got a regulator with one knob on it. Most decent welders come with decent manuals to walk you through the steps and what setting to use for which materials and why. " thats why I prefer TORCH and TIG welders over all the others, you can EXACTLY and instantly controll the heat and feed rates INSTANTLY by moving the feed rod of material or the heat source distance or angle plus the heat source temp is finely adjustable on a TORCH and both the pollarity and to a large extent voltage are trigger controlled with a TIG welder, plus the dials allow the basic range to be set yeah, I weld with STICK,TORCH,TIG and MIG, and while most guys prefer MIG ,for the ease and speed, Ill take a TIG or a TORCH in most applications, simply for the more precise control on the weld process, speed is of little concern to me VS controll of the weld process

Ive got several welders in the shop, these two (below) are getting used alot, the reason I bring this up is that once you start welding frames, motor mounts ,ETC. you really will appreciate the extra power a 180 amp class welder has VS the smaller 130 amp class and the differance in cost while significant makes purchaseing the larger machine a better deal in the long run, VS one now and upgrading later http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91887 I paid about $500 for the hobard on sale at harbor freight http://thetoolsource.com/thetoolsource/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=360 I bought the LINCOLD generator/welder at home depot for $2400 now I prefer TIG welders but your basic stick welder can do a good deal of what needs to be done in the hot rodder hobby theres lots of guys that can,t weld without a MIG welder, MIG is good but its not the only or the best or the least expensive route, just the easiest in most cases learning to weld at least at a minimal level is ALMOST MANDATORY in the hot rodding hobby! By almost I mean they don,t take you out and shoot you if you don,t know how but there will be times when you may want to do it yourself when you find out the cost differance between doing it yourself and what a quality welding shop charges. I would STRONGLY SUGGEST contacting your local college or trade schools to find a night class in WELDING BASICS, for MIG,TIG,ARC/stick, and TORCH welding, BEFORE buying a welder, and paying attention in class.....it will save you THOUSANDS of dollars and can even MAKE you a decent side income once youve mastered the basics and purchased a decent welder http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/82101/ http://www.alpharubicon.com/elect/tigbasic1.htm http://www.alpharubicon.com/elect/tigbasic2.htm http://www.autobody101.com/articles/article.php?title=Expanded+Welding http://www.autobody101.com/articles/article.php?title=Mig+Welding http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/gtwelding.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=284481&Main=276563#Post284481 http://www.millermotorsports.com/mboard/index.php? as an example the exhaust on my corvette is full length 3"stainless with dual (X)s and would cost me in excess of $1000 to buy and have installed, I purchased the parts and installed /welded it up for under $300....it does not take many projects like that to more than recover the cost of the welder and knowing its done correctly and exactly how you wanted it done has a benefit of its own! btw when you go to purchase a welder http://www.weldplus.com/tig-welders.htm http://metals.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aws.org%2Fcgi-bin%2Fmwf%2Fforum_show.pl%3FmarkRead%3D1 http://store.cyberweld.com/tigwelders1.html http://www.htpweld.com/ http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/

"can u use a supercharger for a tpi camaro on it" yes any suprecharger designed for the TPI intake can be adapted to sit the HOLLEY STEALTHRAM, BTW THE STEALTHRAM works even better with the runners PORTED and the runner entrances blended and smoothed http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/winter01/dyno/dyno021105/webpage021105.html http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0307htp_holleystealth/ btw the steathram intakes 10" tall vs the TPI at 9" (measured from the block wall between the heads)

Id suspect this info might help http://popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0511phr_engls1/index2.html http://www.w2wpowertrain.com/t-Casper-2.aspx http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/ls1/ls1.htm http://mzmperformance.com/aps/gto.html http://www.turbotechnologyinc.com/corvette_turbocharger_systems.htm http://www.turbotechnologyinc.com/ http://www.lingenfelter.com/LingenfelterC5Corvette600HPTwinTurboPackage.htm http://www.inductionconcepts.com/default.php http://www.aps-wrx.com/ls1/motor/double_trouble_1.htm http://www.proturbokits.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=168 http://www.w2wpowertrain.com/t-gallery-2.aspx http://www.turbochargedpower.com/ http://www.avoturbo.com/pdf/avo_holden_01.pdf http://www.ststurbo.com/products___

lets just say I LEARNED alot of things ....the hard expensive way early in my career as a mechanic.,I REMEMBER INSTALLING A CLUTCH DISK WITH THE WRONG SIDE FACING THE FLYWHEEL BACK IN 1965, AND INSTALLING BEARINGS WITHOUT CAREFULLY CHECKING CLEARANCES BACK IN 1964. so I don,t feel like Im smarter than anyone else, just remembering back when I started out, makes me feel for the new guys, and realize that we all learn the hard way at first! I remember installing my first cam without checking clearances back in 1964 also! none of those worked out as well as Id hoped

I have no IDEA as to shipping/import cost but ID never pay $1800 for a used 37 YEAR OLD 327,engine, Id STRONGLY suggest spending a few dollars more and getting a NEW engine http://ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html 388 Street and Bracket Price Brand new 350 GM 4 bolt block 5140 Steel 3.75 crankshaft 4340 Steel I-beam 6" rods SRP forged Pistons - Dish, flat, or dome Race quality rings and bearings Completely balanced and assembled $2395 454 Cubic Inch Chevy Pump Gas Small Block On our Superflo dyno this motor made 455 HP with an amazing 550 ft. lb. of torque. It idles great, runs on 92 pump gas, has good throttle response and driveability. This would be the ideal street rod small block. It features a Motown block, 4340 steel crank, H-beam rods, forged pistons, Canton pan, Sportsman II heads, Motown intake, and roller rockers. It's just really cool to have a 454 SMALL block in your hotrod. $6995

http://phors.locost7.info/contents.htm you might want to read thru this to get a better (GRIP) on the concepts

the fastest way to spot a stock pontiac V8 vs a stock chevy V8 engine is to see if theres a valley pan sealing the lifter gallery under the intake manifold and see the distributor does not go thru the intake manifold(pontiac) as cheys has no seperate lifter gallery seal pan and the distributor DOES inseart thru the intakes rear

pontiac engines are one of my favorite engines, but be aware the connecting rods and heads are the weak links heres some info you might use http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/98359/ http://www.classicfirebird.com/tech/bprint.html http://www.classicfirebird.com/hand/hand.html http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/0503hpp_block/ http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/blockID.html http://fiedlerh.home.att.net/PontiacCams.htm http://www.teufert.net/pontiac/cranks.htm http://www.rpmrons.com/Pontiac.html http://my.execpc.com/~lewenz/ http://www.jbp-pontiac.com/products/crankshafts.html http://www.pontiacpower.com/ http://members.tripod.com/futom/id113.htm

sorry I did not see this earlier, my computer crashed for 25 hrs, but it appears the other guys helped out http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/adapters/remote_filter.html http://www.permacool.com/Catalog/Cat_page31.html http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page30.html http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=OILFILTHEAD you also may want to keep in mind that theres several DOZEN differant remote oil filter adapters available,that allow both more clearance and better filtering of the oil, dual remote oil filters,even oil coolers with filters

nice looking car, Im sure its going to be very impressive when its complete, and it seems like you have a great work enviorment.(it must be nice and satisfying seeing the IMPROVEMENTS you can make to the female curves)

Mikelly your SOOO right! while I build corvettes, and build engines, mostly, I regularly do engine swaps, I can,t believe the B.S. posts I get frequently from guys that I know for a FACT that have never worked on or even SEEN some aftermarket equipment , that BASH! AWAY! and show thier TOTAL ignorance of the process, or system,or parts involved, yet get violently upset and seaithing/drooling insanely mad when you even HINT that there OPINIONS are NOT based on ANY facts and that they have NEVER EVEN SEEN that particular modification, or tested it. you just have to realize that theres a small vocal vicsious group of total AS$%%^^ out there that love nothing better that to cut down other peoples work and go out of thier way to slander and bash anything they see thats differant from thier VERY LIMITED experiances Im amazed at the number of idiots that assume that if THEY have not done something that it can,t be done and would never work, or guys that buy a part install it,(incorrectly or for the wrong application) can,t get it to work, then spend the rest of thier lives posting about what a peice of CRAP,(XYZ) part or modification is!

heres an old post "Any source for the magnets Grumpy? " http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin/edatcat/WMSstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=0001 these are NOT REFRIGERATOR MAGNETS "#0001" can pick up a SBC cylinderhead, and you wont beleive the amount of crud they remove from your oil and prevent from reaching the bearings © 2003 ForceField Email us toll free (877)944-6247 or (970)484-7257 Also, you can visit us at our retail store in Fort Collins, Colorado, USA at 614 South Mason Street! Ive been installing 4 of these lately in the corners of the oil pan sump,nothing magnetic (metallic dust from engine wear, assorted trash,etc.)can get past them, I also sometimes install one near the rear oil drain in each head to collect broken valve train shrapnel in case of a failure to limit damage on race engines. btw if you dont want to install them inside the sump you can J&B weld them to the outside of the oil pan permently or just place them there if you want them removable,TRUST ME THEY WON,T FALL OFF ON THIER OWN attached to the steel oil pan sump keep in mind ALL THAT CRAP PASSED THRU AND PUT WEAR ON THE OIL PUMP FIRST! placing the MUCH STRONGER MAGNETS IN THE SUMP PREVENTS THAT "so do you just stick it in the inside corners of the pan and it stays put?" yes you can do it that way on STEEL OIL PANS, and trust me, youll see why they don,t come lose real quickly "or do you attach it some other way as well? " personally I place them in the corners and cover them with a thin coat of J&B weld to make wiping off the accumulated metalic dust easier when I pull the oil pan, but many guys J&B weld them on the outside of the pans sump,the only way your going to get the metalic dust out is to pull and clean the pan once in a while, because once the cruds stuck to the magnets its there almost permently, but it won,t come lose and get back into the oil flow "If you install it on the outside of the pan how do you get the stuff out? maybe just slide the magnet to the drain hole so it comes out? " you could do that more than likely if you only used one magnet but with several I think the steel oil pan itself might remain somewhat magnetic even after the magnets themselfs were removed, as long as its not being carried thru the engine by the oil they are doing thier job

YARD WORK?? in chandler az well its bound to be differant than YARD WORK HERE IN FLORIDA

this is an old post with some insight,and the links have good info we have all heard it, " you need massive low rpm tq" "you need a screaming high rpm hp peak" well heres some info, More in-depth description: http://www.revsearch.com/dynamometer/torque_vs_horsepower.html http://vettenet.org/torquehp.html http://auto.howstuffworks.com/horsepower4.htm http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/engine/hpvstq.html first thing to keep in mind is that theres no such "thing" as horsepower,...... horsepower is a mathmatical term to express the results of the formula explaining the RATE at which TORQUE (rational force ) can be applied increasing the torque at a given RPM or increasing the RPMS with a given torque increases THE RATE(HORSEPOWER AVAILABLE TO DO WORK)GEARING ALLOWS YOU TO APPLIE THAT FORCE at a given force level but not at a RATE APPLICATION LEVEL that exceeds the engines peak power. put a differant way, if we ignore drive line friction loss,if an engine puts out 400 ft lbs at 6000rpm (400 x 6000/5252equals (457 hp)we can gear it to apply 1600 ft lbs at the wheels by running the gearing at 4:1 but that also cuts the application rate by 4:1 so the HP applied stays constant at the 1500rpm at the rear wheels 1600 x 1500/5252 equals (457 hp) the formula for hp is (tq x rpm/5252=hp example 450 ft lbs of torque at 3000rpm=257hp 450 ft lbs of torque at 6000rpm=514hp because the torque is available at that higher RPM RATE and at the higher rpm useing gearing the rotational force the engine supplied can be applied faster or slower to the rear tires here read these ALL CAREFULLY http://www.69mustang.com/hp_torque.htm http://www.ubermensch.org/Cars/Technical/hp-tq/ http://vette.ohioracing.com/hp.html http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/horsepower.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question622.htm where most guys go wrong is in not correctly matching the cars stall speed and gearing to the cars tq curve, if you mod the engine for increased high rpm performance but fail to also match the stall speed and gearing to that higher rpm tq curve much of the potential improvement is wasted. example in the close to stock engine above, the engine should be geared to stay in the 3500rpm-5000rpm range for max acceleration (lower in the rpm range if mileage is a big factor) in the moded engine above the rpm range moved to 4000rpm-6500rpm requireing differant rear gears and slightly higher stall speeds to gain max acceleration in the same car, you should readily see that a trans that shifts at 5000rpm will work in the first example but would waste most of the power curve in the second example,where shifting at 6500rpm under full power acelleration would make more sence. a 3.08 rear gear and 700r4 trans matches the first example well but it would take a swap to a 3.73-4.11 gear to allow the engine in the second example to keep its most effective power band matching that second power curve well. links youll need to figure out correct rear gear ratios http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://www.prestage.com/Car+Math/Ge...io/default.aspx http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/speed.html http://server3003.freeyellow.com/gparts/speedo.htm http://www.pontiacracing.net/trannyratios.htm http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/gear_ratios.htm

this is an old post with some insight,and the links have good info we have all heard it, " you need massive low rpm tq" "you need a screaming high rpm hp peak" well heres some info, More in-depth description: http://www.revsearch.com/dynamometer/torque_vs_horsepower.html http://vettenet.org/torquehp.html http://auto.howstuffworks.com/horsepower4.htm http://homepage.mac.com/dgiessel/engine/hpvstq.html first thing to keep in mind is that theres no such "thing" as horsepower,...... horsepower is a mathmatical term to express the results of the formula explaining the RATE at which TORQUE (rational force ) can be applied increasing the torque at a given RPM or increasing the RPMS with a given torque increases THE RATE(HORSEPOWER AVAILABLE TO DO WORK)GEARING ALLOWS YOU TO APPLIE THAT FORCE at a given force level but not at a RATE APPLICATION LEVEL that exceeds the engines peak power. put a differant way, if we ignore drive line friction loss,if an engine puts out 400 ft lbs at 6000rpm (400 x 6000/5252equals (457 hp)we can gear it to apply 1600 ft lbs at the wheels by running the gearing at 4:1 but that also cuts the application rate by 4:1 so the HP applied stays constant at the 1500rpm at the rear wheels 1600 x 1500/5252 equals (457 hp) the formula for hp is (tq x rpm/5252=hp example 450 ft lbs of torque at 3000rpm=257hp 450 ft lbs of torque at 6000rpm=514hp because the torque is available at that higher RPM RATE and at the higher rpm useing gearing the rotational force the engine supplied can be applied faster or slower to the rear tires here read these ALL CAREFULLY http://www.69mustang.com/hp_torque.htm http://www.ubermensch.org/Cars/Technical/hp-tq/ http://vette.ohioracing.com/hp.html http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/horsepower.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question622.htm where most guys go wrong is in not correctly matching the cars stall speed and gearing to the cars tq curve, if you mod the engine for increased high rpm performance but fail to also match the stall speed and gearing to that higher rpm tq curve much of the potential improvement is wasted. example in the close to stock engine above, the engine should be geared to stay in the 3500rpm-5000rpm range for max acceleration (lower in the rpm range if mileage is a big factor) in the moded engine above the rpm range moved to 4000rpm-6500rpm requireing differant rear gears and slightly higher stall speeds to gain max acceleration in the same car, you should readily see that a trans that shifts at 5000rpm will work in the first example but would waste most of the power curve in the second example,where shifting at 6500rpm under full power acelleration would make more sence. a 3.08 rear gear and 700r4 trans matches the first example well but it would take a swap to a 3.73-4.11 gear to allow the engine in the second example to keep its most effective power band matching that second power curve well. links youll need to figure out correct rear gear ratios http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://www.prestage.com/Car+Math/Ge...io/default.aspx http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/speed.html http://server3003.freeyellow.com/gparts/speedo.htm http://www.pontiacracing.net/trannyratios.htm http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/gear_ratios.htm

NOT ALL OF US AMERICANS grew up with auto transmissions, althought Id be forced to aggree,that finding a manual transmission thats not in a sports car or truck is not all that comon any more over here! yet I hardly think that a MANUAL trans is mandatory in a performance car, and I never owned an auto trans untill about 12 years ago, and Ive been driving for 40 years plus BTW CONGRATS zguy95135

are you really working toward reaching your goal or just wasteing money on your current engine combo.... most of you gentelmen are falling into the most comon TRAP there is, limited thinking BASED on modifying the engine size and/or type that came from the factory in your car, or buying parts almost randomly as you get DEALS yeah I know, it seems easier and cheaper and its far less intimidating if your not especially skilled, but in the long run it ALWAYS PAYS to think thinks thru in detail, as to what you REALLY want to have when your done, sure that l83,l98,LT4 with a few mods seems fast,but by the time you finish modifications youll have spent a good deal of money, and not have nearly the results , in hp/tq you hoped to get,that,that same money spent might have purchased Ive seen many guys constantly throw parts/money, in an almost never ending repetative/cycle at their engine based on the stock engine block and in most cases heads, when a careful assessment, as to thier true goals would have saved them a great deal of money and effort and time, ESPECIALLY if they had built a seperate engine and installed that once it was complete, plus when it came time to sell the car they would not be giving THOUSANDS of DOLLARS in parts away they were getting little or no money FOR! all Im saying here is THINK IT THRU CAREFULLY....if you want, a supercharger,you really need to build the engine to USE a supercharger, a big block,is usually cheaper in the long run if your goals are over 500hp N/A,or if your thinking about a twin turbo LS2, then don,t waste a good deal of money modifying your current engine, first. PLAN YOUR PATH/BUDGET AN ATTAIN YOUR TRUE GOAL! theres 500 hp 383 engins theres 720hp 572 engines theres 505 hp aluminum engines ETC. http://ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/frame.html?/ChevyBigBlockV8s/572.html http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/frame.html I see guys all the time who have dropped $5000,$8000 or more on mods, that have tried several cams, differant cylinder heads, several intakes ETC. they spent the money, yet have little to show for it!,YEAH! IM WELL aware that its far easier to spend $150,or $300 at a time,but THINK ABOUT WHAT YOULL HAVE, LATER!PLAN your mods, think it thru AND STICK TO THE PLAN!

Im sure its probably operator error, but having, worked on both style lifts extensively over the years, Id sellect the 4 post lift with a sliding bridge jack as the safer option

I see failures occasionally with both 2 post and 4 post lifts but the two post designs seem to be far easier to screw up both due to operator error and mechanical failures and theres no question as to which design is more prone to failure if improperly installed (TWO POST LIFTS have that NAILED!)