nullbound

The headers MSA sells are the S&S full length headers and you're better of getting them from S&S, if you decide to go that route: http://www.headermania.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=H&Product_Code=5205&Category_Code=STREETROD I use these headers with my car with the JTR setback position, but had to persuade the floor a little bit with a bfh in order to run the exhaust.

Count me in, as well.

Email Ross and he'll send you a document on how to flip the cage assemblies on your axles. It's really simple. There are also several threads you can search for that cover this topic. Search for "flip cage" and you should get a few.

You will not get a phone number here for Ross from MM, but realize that Ross is a busy man and it may take him some time to respond. But, he will respond. This has been stated over and over, but he runs this business on the side. He will respond, his parts are top notch, and he's amazing to work with. I've bought several parts from him in the past and will be buying more from him soon for my 280. If you search, you'll find that most people that are looking for him didn't give him a reasonable amount of time to respond. This question gets asked a lot. Just be patient. It's worth the wait.

Pete, I just sent payment via paypal as we discussed. Thanks for the info and for providing these parts. They look great in the photos:2thumbs:

That's really busy looking. Russell makes pipe thread swivel hose ends... you should be able to replace all of what you have there on the right with one piece. They're pricey, but make for a cleaner look: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_10001_10002_748914_-1 As for your other pics, you have some awesome parts and have done some great work!

Sounds like it could be your turn signal switch. On my 280, only my high-beams work and this is due to a bad connection on my turn signal switch. Take the steering column cover off and break out the test light.

Amazing tribute to your son, sir. Also, I love the work I'm seeing on the website. Makes me wish you guys had a shop here. Beautiful work!

It was awesome hanging out with you, Davy. The company and conversation was definitely great:2thumbs: I meant to shake your hand and give another hearty 'nice-to-meet-ya' on the way out, but honestly can't remember if I did or didn't. I apologize if I didn't.

Awesome guys! I can't wait to see the final numbers!!

Sounds good! For the fronts, it depends on what cartridges you have. Your ride height looks good right now, so I probably wouldn't mess with them. If, however, you're not sure about the condition of the front cartridges and want to replace them (while you're at it), tokico hp's are sufficient on the front unless you get a good deal on a complete set of illuminas. There's usually really good deals on complete sets of illuminas on ebay.

If you're willing to go with Tokico Illuminas (set on 4 or 5) for the rear, you can do the 8" wheel on the rear with those tokico springs and otherwise stock suspension. Going to an 8" wheel without changing the cartridge to an illumina will more-than-likely cause you to scrub your tires on the inner fender lip (even after rolling). If you're going to use Tokico HP blues (or whatever cartridge is currently installed), then go with the 7" wheel. For the 8.8 swap in the future, however, the 8" wheel seems like a better choice for that change. If it were me, I would get the illuminas and 8" wheels now. That's very skinny and very short for street use... And those sizes are more appropriate for a 4" wheel. Remember that your front brakes handle a higher percentage of your braking. Personally, I wouldn't go smaller than a 205/60-15 for the fronts for street use. That being said, you've mentioned slicks in this thread... Is the car primarily a street car with occasional runs at the drag strip? If it's a mixed-use car, you might go with a set of drag radials on the rear and use the mickey thompsons I mentioned above on the front. That's what I have for mine, but I only drive mine on the street on weekends. And the problem with this route is it's not the best in rainy weather...

They're not exact replicas. They look the same, but Jeg's wheels are cast aluminum, whereas Weld wheels are cold forged aluminum. I'll stick with Weld wheels.

No worries on the questions and I hope my advice is helpful. Rolling fender lips is done to add clearance for the tires in the rear. You can do this carefully with a hammer or the end of a baseball bat, or with a pricey tool like the following: http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/tools/fenderlip.jsp. I prefer the baseball bat/hammer route myself (I'm cheap that way), but the image in the link to tirerack should give you an idea of what it's doing. There's a roller on the top of the tool that is used to compress the lip of the fender in against the fender so that you don't end up taking chunks out of your tires on bumps or uneven pavement. You can also use a rolling pin like a cook uses. For a 280 with stock suspension, I would stick with a 235/60-15 on an 7" rim with 4" backspacing to be safe. Without seeing your car in person and being able to view the ride height and clearance, I can't recommend an 8" rim, especially given what you'll have to go through to get your wheels. While I think it would work with an 8" rim, I don't want you to end up with something you'll be disappointed with. However, if you were planning to go with coilovers, I would say go for the 8" rim. For slicks, look for something in the 26x8" or 26x8.5" range for the rears. That's in the same size range as a 235/60-15 will be. I have 6" front wheels and would purchase the same size again if I were to do it over. So, IMO go with 6" wheels on the front with a 205/60-15 or a 215/60-15 for street tires. Those tire sizes are pretty close to the stock diameter. If you want something to match with slicks, I like (and am currently using) Mickey Thompson Sportsman Fronts (26x7.5-15). While the size seems like it's close to the rears, it's really not. They look skinny, even on a 6" rim (that's what's on my car in my signature): http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MTT%2D1572&N=700+4294923107+4294921520+4294793325+115&autoview=sku I'm being a little conservative on this, but just trying to make sure you get something that will work rather than something that might work.

4" backspacing would work for a 7" rim, but you wouldn't want that with an 8" rim, otherwise you would have some problems with your fender lips. An 8" rim with 4.5" backspacing is ok with stock suspension, but you will have to roll your inner fender lips. With 280 suspension, the spring perch is out of the way. I'm using stock style suspension with suspension techniques lowering springs on both my 240 and 280, both with 8" wide wheels on the rear. More details of my setup are in the thread referenced above by gearheadstik. For the fronts, a 5" or 6" rim is good (and would look good on your car), but IMO a 3.5" or 4" rim is really too skinny for a car you're going to drive on the street. Also, the available offsets for the smaller rims is limited.

I had originally purchased tubes for the rears, but found out at the tire shop that the valve stem holes in the Welds weren't large enough for the stems on the tubes. I didn't really want to drill out the valve stem holes on my wheels, so I've been running without tubes. I haven't had any issues. I know of a few others running the same wheels and tires as I am and they're also not using tubes.

Count me in!

I've got a 4.11 r180 in my '78 280, also, which replaced the 3.54 r200 that was in the car when I got it. It's definitely fun around town, through curves, etc. I don't, however, have the vibration issues.

Not at all. They could be carried... It could grip it by the husk.

Ha! Good one, Pop N Wood! In a physics class in college, I had a question on an exam about a swallow... I don't remember the question, but my answer was another question: "Would that be an African or a European swallow?" I'm glad my professor was also a fan, as I got full credit for that one:mrgreen:. A friend of mine at another college around the same time had the same experience.

Snap, snap, wink, wink, nudge, nudge, grin, grin, know what I mean, know what i mean, say no more... say no more! Everyone here needs to see Spamalot, the musical. It's a really funny play on Holy Grail, with some random bits/songs from other sketches thrown in, as well. And the lady of the lake is hot.

I had this problem. Had to tighten the pi$$ out of them.

I've heard this was a good book:http://www.amazon.com/Competition-Car-Suspension-practical-handbook/dp/1844253287/ref=pd_bbs_1/002-1833445-9409648?ie=UTF8&s=books And that this was pretty good: http://www.amazon.com/Chassis-Engineering-HP1055-Herb-Adams/dp/1557880557/ref=sr_1_2/002-1833445-9409648?ie=UTF8&s=books

Still funny, but GM's not that witty: http://www.snopes.com/humor/jokes/autos.asp

Cool, let us know when you're going to be here. We can put together a little GA Hybridz Lunch Shindig.