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Everything posted by dat240zg
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Photoshop Help Request - Paint Job Coming!
dat240zg replied to dat240zg's topic in Body Kits & Paint
David: Slight change in plans. Gary over at the Hack Shack said that he can get 248 in right away, so I'm actually putting finishing the LT1 swap on hold for just a week or so to finish stripping #248. Then it's off to the media blaster on Tuesday and to Garys on Thursday. He told me 5 weeks and its done. Hold me back! Bryan Dat240zg -
Photoshop Help Request - Paint Job Coming!
dat240zg replied to dat240zg's topic in Body Kits & Paint
Many thanks! These look great! I'm going to get these off to the painter and let him get ready for the car.....#248 is on its way!!!!! Bryan -
Photoshop Help Request - Paint Job Coming!
dat240zg replied to dat240zg's topic in Body Kits & Paint
Guys: Thanks for the help so far. I'm pretty excited about this paint scheme, so hopefully it'll turn out well. I've attached another pic of my Z, early on in the process, 4 plus years ago. Maybe this will help: Thanks again for the help with this. As soon as the process begins, I'll be posting pics of each step. Bryan -
Guys: I finally have a time spot scheduled with the painter and now need to see if my paint idea will look good or not. I don't have photoshop and so was wondering if someone could help me with this. My plan is to use a paint scheme similar to what Bart was throwing around, but with my factory color on the bottom and black on the top. Any chance that someone would have the time to whip this together? If it looks bad, I want to come up with paint scheme plan number two. TIA - big time! Here are the pics: Barts plan first: A very nice Z, painted same color as mine:
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Anyone have a hood and a passenger side metal headlight bezel?
dat240zg replied to dat240zg's topic in Body Kits & Paint
Without a doubt, your hoods are very cool. I may have to get the 5 finger discount from Dsommers . Nothin like stealing...uh, I mean borrowing from a fellow Z friend.... LOL Bryan Dat240zg -
Guys: I'm finally finishing the LT1 swap and am now looking at the body work. The hood that I have is rust free, but creased along the ridge and would cost more to fix than its worth. Anyone have a stock or fiberglass hood that they are needing to part with? Also a straight passenger side headlight bezel, with or without studs? Parts are for a '70 240 and I'm located smack dab in the middle of the country, in NW Arkansas. TIA, Bryan Dat240zg
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Question for guys who completely re-wired
dat240zg replied to Poundz9oh9's topic in Ignition and Electrical
Marcus: I just finished rewiring the Z using an Autowire harness. I got in touch with a guy over on Classic Zcar, userid Zs-ondabrain and he hooked me up with original-type connectors and clips. It helped with making things look original fit. FWIW.... Bryan Dat240zg -
LT1 engine, JTR radiator and heater hook up.
dat240zg replied to deja's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
I went the tapping route, but them I had the front of the motor off. I used a prybar to wiggle the fitting out (took some work too) and then had the hole tapped for a 1/2" NPT fitting. No probs! Bryan -
Deja: This past weekend was radiator install time for me as well. After I mounted the JTR radiator kit, I found that I could get almost an inch of flex out of it after the fan was bolted up, so I went to Home Depot and got several L brackets and bent them to fit from the top of the Z's radiator support over to the top of the JTR radiator mount. I'll take some pics later today. Bryan
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My experience is also similar. I purchased the little known JCI LT1 kit thinking that for the money ($695) it would pretty much be gold plated. When it arrived, the box was beat up, the parts were dinged and everything appeared as if it had just been tossed in the box. After fitting, I found that the mounts placed the T56 about 5 inches too far forward, with the shifter coming out under the dash. I had done a good bit of talking with John prior to purchasing the kit, carefully going over what parts were goiing in to the car and which car it was going in. He assurred me that it would fit great. The parts were just as you described: appeared to be very well engineered, custom bent, etc. I was/am ticked off that even after talking with him about the fitment problems, he refused to do anything, claiming that it wasn't his problem. For me, $695 is a heck of a lot of money to throw away!!! I ended up using the JCI crossmember and basically the rest is JTR. I've tried selling the engine mounts and booklet here and can't even get $50 for them!!! So basically I paid $695 for a crossmember. Still fuming over this one..... Bryan Dat240zg
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Finally got my LT1 exhaust done - what do you think?
dat240zg replied to dat240zg's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Thanks guys. It ended up being fairly affordable as well. I had a guy come out to give me a price on the job using the mufflers I had purchased (he was pretty highly recommended from the spec Miata guys) and he quoted $1000 for 304 stainless, mandrel bent, etc!!!!! After I picked myself up off of the floor, I told him thank and to not let the garage door whack him on the head on his way out. I ended up purchasing all of my mufflers, bends, pipe, flanges etc. on my own and called the muffler shop that has done my Z's in the past - grand total parts and labor was just above $500. I'm really pleased with the results but the sound clips will have to wait until I get it started. Thanks for the compliments! It's encouraging to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Bryan -
I'll be honest, I'm not an engineer, don't even play one on TV, so my answer is just what I've gleaned from others. Based on a thread that I followed for a while, it looks like if you turned your sump around you could have a problem with fuel starvation under acceleration as the fuel moves to the back of the tank. I don't know if that would be a real problem under every day driving, but on the track I could see it causing problems. FWIW... Bryan
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Good question. I'd bet that you could. Part of the reason that I had them weld in the sump was for the AN fittings for my fuel lines, but they could probably weld in the fittings w/out the sump. Because of the shape of the tank, I don't know if they could weld an -AN fitting low enough without the sump, but if you're staying with stock lines - feed and return - I don't see why it wouldn't work. Bryan
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Clive: From what I understand if the tank is baffled (like a '75 280) then there isn't a fuel starvation - or at least it's greatly reduced. The baffles within my tank are similar to a 280 tank and in addition, when the put on the sump they drilled 1" holes to add to the baffling affect. All this baffling is baffling.... Anyways, seems like less work than the mods needed for the LS1 tank. Are you going duals for your exhaust? Bryan
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Finally got my LT1 exhaust done - what do you think?
dat240zg replied to dat240zg's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Hey Bill. I'll get up under the car and see if I can fab up a piece to use as a shield. My T56 is one of the earlier ones with the external slave and I was just a little concerned that it may melt from the heat. Thanks for the insight. Bryan -
This has been a pretty exciting week as far as the Z goes with the fuel tank getting finished and now the exhaust done as well. System was made from 3" 304 stainless with mandrel bends. I used the Sanderson headers from the JTR swap, from there 2.5" into a Y pipe and 3" from there back. I used a Magnaflow bullet for a silencer and then a Magnaflow Stainless Steel muffler that I picked up on ebay out back. Here're some of the pics: Didn't have any problems with fitment and clearance underneath the diff (since swapped out) is fine. My only concern is the pipe coming off of the drivers side header is within a half an inch of the clutch slave cylinder. Anyone ever wrapped theirs with heat resistant material or anything? Thanks for any comments or suggestions. Bryan
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Just got my fuel tank back from Moyers (http://www.gas-tank.com) today and it really turned out nice. They did a whole list of things for me including: 1. Welded Brad's 240Z sump, 2. Deleted the factory return and feed lines and subbed an AN fitting, 3. Welded additional baffles inside the tank, 4. Repositioned the drain plug, 5. Reconditioned the tank inside and out. If anyone else is considering getting their tank redone, this is the way to go. $350 for everything and comes with a lifetime warranty against rusting. Jim is the guy to talk with - nice guy and fairly knowledgable about Z's as well. They received the tank and had it back to me within 10 days! Anyways, pics are worth a thousand words so: Now to mount the pump, plumb the lines and get this thing running! Bryan