dat240zg

Jody: Just saw your post. What's your impression of the McLeod clutch? Is your flywheel stock? BTW, thanks for the PM about the heads. If I can raise some funds, I'll get back with you. Bryan

I'll throw mine in to the ring. My car is #1792. I got it from a little divorced lady and the car had just around 80K miles and was totally stock. I'm sure that there is some special dungeon reserved for me for corrupting a completely stock down to the D hubcaps Z, but oh well. Anyways....my LT1/T56 came from a '94/95 SLP Firehawk with approx. 34K miles on it. Motor has been opened at some point, and was clean enough to eat off of. Who knows what is inside. I haven't had alot of money for performance adders, so mine is basically stock, with the exception of Barts old cold air setup, headers and 3" stainless mandrel exhaust. I tried to put money in to a really solid base, so most of my parts are higher end and should last me for a long time. Stainless braided fuel lines, Aeromotive fuel system (pump and FPR), B&M oil cooler, nismo LSD and a few other secrets. Mine is also going to be a daily driver, so strength and dependability were crucial. I'll try to get pics of my exhaust and redone fuel tank a little later this evening. Bryan Dat240zg

C'mon.... move to the NW Arkansas area....rumors of inbreeding and other "Deliverance" activities are greatly overstated... Long commute is 25 min, housing is still appreciating, $250-300K still buys you a very nice home, Hallett is only a hour or two away and sheezzz... Dsommers and I need some more Z guys here! End of sales pitch. Bryan

I cut off the mounts in the tunnel for my LT1/T56 swap and had to massage the tunnel a little bit by the slave cylinder. I also had to do a little hammering where the JCI crossmember was supposed to bolt up, due to the curve of the mount itselft. Looks fine now. One note of caution, be careful with the cutting wheel. When I was cutting away the mounts, I let it go just a little too much and ended going through both the mount and the tranny tunnel. Good lesson to take your time, move slow. Bryan

I'm like Mark. I got the Lokar cable that came with the JCI kit. Fit pretty good. Bryan

Here's a long shot. When I sold the Banks kit this summer, Banks was actually the winner of the auction. The kit was from '81-'82 and was brand new. Had Rayjay turbos that were still new in the bag. They were going to take the setup and keep it for display. Might try contacting them about selling the turbos. Like I said, long shot....but? Bryan Dat240zg

I'm finishing up the Autowire kit right now, but unfortunately, the car is at the exhaust shop. When I get it back, I'll try to get the info for you. Bryan Dat240zg

Jody: What are you looking to get for the heads, etc ? Bryan Dat240zg

I'd jump on it as well. For one thing, it's a hard top, right? If so, guys over on LT1tech would be interested in it. When I bought my '95 formula firehawk I had several guys offer $700 just for the shell alone - problem with mine was that the frame was slightly tweaked. I purchased mine for right at $6k, including my cost to go retrieve it and in one summer I made all of my money back. If it runs and no frame damage, don't even think twice. I agree with LS1, stroke the LT1! Thats my goal several years down the road. FWIW, Bryan Dat240zg

If I'm looking at your pics correctly, it looks like the problem is with the way that you mounted the actual motor mounts to the Z crossmember. I went out and looked at mine (I have the JTR/LT1 setup as well) and mine are mounted with the motor mount centered on the crossmember. Anyone see something different? Bryan Dat240zg

Based on what I've heard from several members, the clutch master line (from master cylinder to slave on the T56) is longer on the GTO. My question is, does it mount to the GTO slave cylinder the same way as the F-body line does? If so, couldn't you just switch out the GTO clutch master and line and hook those to the existing F-body T56 slave cylinder? Thanks for any insight. Bryan

Well, the old phrase "don't count your custom radiators before their built" or however that goes sure is true... Griffin initially quoted me $400 for a custom downsized LT1 radiator with a 3" core and the stock style tanks with all hookups - including factory oil cooler fitting. When I faxed them the mockup sheet, they decided that $750 was the price of the day.... After explaining in fairly clear terms where they could put their radiator, I canceled the radiator order and promptly ordered the JTR radiator. Here's the meat of the problem: the water pump for the LT1 with the factory oil cooler has (I believe) different "pipes" leading to the oil cooler than those LT1's that didn't have the oil cooler. Now that I'm not going to use the factory setup, I need to cap (seems like a band aid fix) the water pump to oil cooler lines or replace the water pump with one that doesn't have the fittings. I'd rather get the different water pump. All this to say, does any one know if either the corvette (w/LT1) WP or the Caprice w/LT1 water pumps will work as far as the heater hoses goe? It seems like there would be some kind of interference with the alternator mount. Any thoughts? Bryan

Thanks guys. Jody - I hadn't checked specifically for clearance, but after reading your post I did and I should be ok. I'll have to use the smaller filter. Yesterday I got in touch with Griffin and they will make me a custom cross flow radiator sized to the Z with all necessary LT1 fittings for right at $400, shipped to my door in 2 weeks. I think I'll be going with that! Thanks again for the input. Bryan

Guys, I've searched up and down for any hints about this and can't find anything. My LT1 came from the '94 Firehawk and had the "built in" oil cooler (option KC4) where lines came off of the water pump, circulated coolant to the oilfilter mount, from there to the radiator and then back to through the waterpump. I guess that I'm wanting to know whether or not anyone has incorporated this oil cooler into your setup? Is a water/oil cooler as effective as the standard air/oil cooler? Thanks for the tips. Bryan Dat240zg

Well, I don't have the JTR pieces, but I do have the JCI LT1 mounts and the majority of the rest of the parts for the swap - short some of the bolts and the tranny mount. Bryan Dat240zg

Here's a link to the type of harness that I bought. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/500232-American-Autowire-Power-Plus-18-Wiring-Harness_W0QQitemZ190066139130QQihZ009QQcategoryZ42613QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Everything has been very clearly laid out, just as it says. The only real struggle has been with the Datsun wiring - half the time the colors that the different Datsun manuals call for aren't the same, and as a result, the combo switch has been a nightmare. Also, haven't had the battery hooked up yet, so I cant check the circuts. BUT! aside from that, I'll use their harnesses again for the restomod job on #248 next summer. Bryan

Any of your RB guys able to get a hold of Brad? I recognize that he was trying to sell the Z. He used to make the 240Z fuel tank sumps and I'm getting ready to renu my tank. Anyone able to help me out? Bryan Dat240zg

I used the higher end version of the ez2wire and (knock on wood) haven't had any problems. Installation is fairly straight forward, I just read and then re-read the instructions. Mine came with the hookup for a GM colum switch, which I'm in the process of modifying to match up to the Datsun Combo switch. Everything was labled nicely, came with all of the hookups and parts that you would need, etc. The only thing is that it took about 3 weeks to get to me after I purchased mine - and I got mine on ebay as well. HTH.... Bryan Dat240zg

Arz: There are several of us who have done the aftermarket HVAC system. I went with the Hot Rod Air system, Bartman went with Vintage Air. Both of us ended up using the billet control panel, but I spoke with Hot Rod Air about modding the Z control panel with cables to work with their system. They have a department that modifies their systems to work with factory controls. It would probably be more effort and problem to try to do it yourself as all of the vaccum and electronic controls have to be changed to cable operated. For them to do it the cost was approx. $200 and about 6-8 weeks time. I'll be going that route when I get #248 on the road. Hope this helps. Bryan Dat240zg

...the e-brake brackets for 240sx rear calipers? When I did the brake swap I purchased rebuilt calipers that were supposedly complete - the only thing that was missing was the bracket that bolts on to the caliper that holds the e-brake cable. If anyone has a set, I'd be more than willing to pay a fair price for them. Thanks. I'm down to tying up the last few loose ends and need to track a set down. No one sells just the brackets. Thanks. Bryan Dat240zg

I've noticed as more and more people are getting into the LS2 swaps, GTO clutch masters are starting to become more common for the T56. I've searched and couldn't find a reason. Is their a difference in the length of the line itself? Anyone fill me in? Bryan Dat240zg

OldestZguy: If you're interested, I still have pics of the JCR LT1 kit in my gallery. I ended up using the JCR T56 mount but not the engine mounts. The end result was that the motor was placed in between the location of the JTR and the Scarab locations. When used with the T56, the shifter came out too far forward - under the front of the dash. I'll be selling my engine mounts and some of the misc pieces here in the next few weeks. One thing to say for the JCR kit, it's a nice piece of work! Everything fits very nicely and doesn't have to be pieced together. The JCR manual leaves a lot to be desired. Overly brief and vague - not a good first timer. I had to re-read the JTR manual before I could figure out the JCR instructions. But that may be just me.... Bryan Dat240zg

Guys: I was able to pick up a later (82-83) 15/16 master cylinder really cheaply. I recognize that it's the earlier ZX master that is typically used in the brake swap. When putting the master up the brake booster, it looks like the bolt pattern is correct left to right - it's top of the mounting lip that hits the vertical bolts on the brake booster. Here's my question: Could the lip be ground down to clear the studs without comprimising the master cylinder? If so, great. Is there another reason why the later master cylinder won't work? Thanks for your help guys. This project is getting close! Bryan Dat240zg

Guys: Thanks much again for your insite. Joe: Pics would be great. My email is Dat240zg@gmail.com. Pop: I had to relocate the battery due to the placement of the LT1 computer - otherwise I think that I would have kept the stock location. Bartman: I think that you and I have pretty much the same setup. I looked for pics off of your site, but didn't see anything. Grounding to the seatbelt bolt is what I was looking for. As far as the postitive side, is there any danger to running the positive cable on the same side of the body as the braided fuel lines? BTW, when you switched to the ram air, what did you do with air intake setup that you were using prior to that? If it's still around, any interest in selling it (from the MAF to the airfilter)? Thanks again. Startup d-day is Thanksgiving, or my wife may give me the move out talk.....

Gents: Haven't posted in a while as the school year has started and teaching is consuming most of my time. I have been able to make a little progress on the LT1 swap and am finishing up the last bits of wiring. I have several questions that I've searched for already, but no help. BTW, if these border on the moronic, over look it - I just can't find an answer and am at a loss. 1). Anyone have pics of how they relocated their battery to the trunk? Even more specifically, behind the seats? My Odessey battery is mounted, but I've never relocated a battery before and there were no instructions with the kit. I recognize that I have to ground to the unibody - can that be done inside the car w/out issues? My next question is how do I wire the positive side? Does the extended cable go directly to the starter or to a remote post(?) or something? 2). For those of you who have done the LT1/T56 swap, how did you handle the neutral safety switch, or did you just not use one? I've looked through the JTR manual and searched here, but no clear answer for a T56. Thanks in advance for any help, jeers, flames, etc. BTW, just completed the majority of the HotRod Air swap. If you're debating about whether or not to go with one of these systems (or a vintage air) do it! Very easy and clean to install. Freed up a good bit of space behind the dash as well. I just need to take the car - when it finally runs - to get the system charged. I'll try to get some pics up soon. Bryan Dat240zg