V8ZRACER260Z

I am using 215cc Dart Iron Eagles with straight plugs. Make sure you check your headers for proper clearances also. I still had to clearance the inner pipes to clear the plugs. Alot of the aftermarket heads have relocated plugs for better performance. Check with the head manufacturer for header recomendations. Rick

Maybe I wasn't clear, but we did have a 3/8" line to the oil pan above the oil level installed originally. The turbo rebuilder told us we needed a vent line run from the oil return line to the valve cover. We got a T fitting with a 3/8" thru and a 1/4" on the T. We then ran this 1/4" to a drilled & tapped a 1/4" fitting in the valve cover. Still having oil where it shouldn't be ie intake & exhaust. Ther is actually oil dripping from the exhaust side of the housing. The more I'm thinking of it I believe the turbo was rebuilt incorrectly.

Hey guys one of my coworkers just put a greddy turbo kit, that he bought from E-bay,on his Honda Civic (not everyone is graced with a Z). He had the turbo gone thru by a local builder. He is getting oil coming thru the compressor & exhaust turbines. He called them and the told him he needed to vent the return line to the oil pan. We did this last night with no results. I was wondering what the oil pressure requirments are for the turbo? If we are putting full oil pressure into a turbo that may only require 15-20 psi? Do we need a restrictor? If so where can we get one. Thanks Rick

Looks Good Jeff! I just printed out the site and will build one to do the vette suspension. Thanks that saved me from building one from scratch. Rick

I should be attending the Georgia Z show also. Give me an E-mail so we can get a few Hybrids together up there. Rick

I'm using a Griffin Aluminum 2 1" core Radiator in my car. I payed around $200.00 for it at a local speed shop. They work alot better than most of the stock ones. Rick

You are correct as I am running this transmission. As long as you don't side step the clutch it should hold up ok. FYI Mine is out of an 83 Camaro. Rick

Hey Buddy I'm 6'3" also and an early Z car has more than enough room for me. That was one of the things that attracted me to them 30 years ago! I perfer the early body styles anyway. Have fun shopping and let us know when your ready to increase the Horsepower!

just click on the Scottie's GNZ link below Scottie's logo and it will take you to his home page. Then scroll half way down till you see corvette irs and click on that. Rick

Good job RacerX! This is how it's done. Make sure you paint the stripe color first it is much easier to mask off the stripe than the rest of the car to prevent overspray. Another tip is to dry sand the edge of the stripe lightly with 600 grit after applying the car color. This will knock down the ridge making the final sanding easier to achieve that smooth look & feel. Make sure to read the manufactures recomendation on how many clear coats to apply. We use Dupont and they only recomend two heavy coats. Rick

Nice run buddy! Like the previous post make sure to follow the safety rules, they are there for a reason! We all want to see that Z run faster the next time!! Rick

I have an aluminum Cell also, I welded flanges to both sides for mounting which also grounds the tank. I would sugest running a ground strap at the least though.

I'll agree with Scottie, I have a friend up here with a blown big block in his and it sits on the bump stops. Way to much weight on the front end! Like Scottie said a buick GN engine or small block is a much better choice for a street engine. How ever if your quest is the 1/4 mile have at it! Rick

This should be what your looking for. http://www.zdriver.com/rides/spec/pix/Tony240Z_1003854636.jpg

National Parts Depot sells emblems also. This is what I have on the front fenders of my car. They are 69 Camaro emblems Part# C-8147-18. I posted the page of emblems on the picture trail link below

I agree I will not be copying the front of this car. I was interested in the rear flares. I will be doing something similar to Blueoval Z's look in the front, but retaining the stock headlamps. I really like the vented fenders!! On the rear I will do the back similar to the JCR flares with a vent beside the tail lamps.

Victoria British has metal fenders for 149.95 @. I have also seen the JC Witney fenders on a Z and they fit OK.

Hey Guys, it sounds like you approve of my selection. this is the link to more photos http://www.zparts.com/showcase/wczn20/index.htm There are several nice Z's on this page

Has any one seen these flares? Do they make a kit or hand made. I'm doing this to my Z but if I can buy them that will save some time. If not time to break out the tools! I need the room for the vette rear susp coming soon. http://www.zparts.com/showcase/wczn20/images/00r11f14.jpg http://www.zparts.com/showcase/wczn20/images/00r11f13.jpg

Definately go with the forged steel rods. The Aluminum rods will not take the daily abuse from a turbo engine. the weight saved is not worth the trouble. Rick

I used a standard cap with HEI terminals you should have no clearance problems with this. Jegs carries the distributor MSD #121-8360 if you need the cap only Part# is 121-8433

Sorry about the short notice, But I didn't want to post bad info. There will be a car show her in gainesville,Fl tomorrow morning at 11am hosted by the Ecza club out of Tampa. We are expecting over 40Z cars from old to new as well as a few others (Porsche,Bmw,Nsx,Supras,ect.). Any one interested can Email me at V8ZRACER260Z@netscape.net and I'll provide directions. [[2thumbs]] P.S. I'll be posting Photos after the show at the Picturetrail address below

What your getting is a voltage drop from the ignition switch to the coil. The way to verify this is take your voltmeter and put on lead on the coil & the other at the ignition switch. The resulting reading will be the amout of drop accross the circuit. It should be near zero as this is a short run, any more and you will need to re run the circuit or install a load relay to do the work. Rick

Pull oof your lower steering shroud and one of the wires should only be hot when turned to the crank postion. I believe it is blue or pink in color, I don't have my scematic in front of me. E-mail me with the yaer of your car and I will look it up and tell you exactly which one. Any way a test light should tell you. If none of them light only in the crank poss. check for a burnt fuseable link or you may have a bad ignition switch. Rick V8ZRACER260Z@netscape.net

By the way why go with the 305 when a 350 is the same price and has much more potential for HORSEPOWER!!