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V8ZRACER260Z

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Everything posted by V8ZRACER260Z

  1. Thanks for the compliments guys! I can't wait to get it back on the road, but it will be a while more to get it right. All I can say is you haven't seen anything yet! Much more to come!! Rick
  2. Door bars are going in last to make it easier to do the floors and tranny tunnel. Mike is going to have them ready to weld in though next week. We still have a knee bar and some other braces ect.. to install too. Rick
  3. Ok recent pics are posted on my picture trail link also. It is coming along real nice. We are taking a break for this week due to the holiday, but will pick up after that. It's starting to look like a car again. I'll be hanging the fenders, and hood soon for mounting points. All the front sheetmetal will be using quick release pins & fastners. Then comes the body work to flare the car out for the wider tires. The engine it done at the machine shop and I'll be picking it up next week. I should have it on the road early to mid 2004. I'm still trying for the next Hybrid Z event in march.
  4. No problem Jeff. I'm glad to hear you're working on your car also. Don't forget to put in some baffles on either side to force the air thru the radiator. I did't do this on mine because it was't going to stay that way. Just take some cardboard and mock some up and then cut them out of some sheet aluminum. I should have quite a few scraps from making all my floor & interior trim, so I'll send you some down. As soon as I can access the shop where my car is I'll post pics. Rick
  5. Well Guys the full roll cage is finally welded in. The car is almost sitting on it's wheels!! We have to weld in the front shock mounts and she is on the ground. Then is it's alot of floor & firewall work and a bit of body work to clear the tires. I'll post pics of it this weekend. Rick
  6. The Griffin holds up fine for now but I may need to go larger as the HP increases. We'll see. Thanks for the comments and I'll keep you updated on the progress. Rick
  7. Once again great set up and welcome to the forum. As for my rear suspension I'll be using a modified 1985 C4 vette suspension front & rear. I'v seen several TT vettes putting out crazy HP and weighing in at several hundred pound more than my car. The suspension seems to handle high HP applications very well. I've been planning this for several years and finally took it off the road to do it. You can check out the pics on the link on my post then go to current vette susp pics. I've done some more work since then and need to update the photos. I'm building mine for some serious road racing and alot of street use too. I'll let you know when I run the Silver State Classic in Nevada. That should be close enough for you to come from CA. Rick
  8. Real nice job! I'm a paint & body guy so I can appreciate a good finish. can't wait to see it when she is put back together. Rick
  9. I used a label maker from WallMart. It was less than $20.00 and electronically makes printed labels that are permanent and weather proof. I am keeping everything indoors though. I also used alot of plastic bins & tubs to sort out the small bolts & bigger pieces. Good Luck.
  10. Happy Birthday Devildogs!! USMC 89-94 MCAS Beaufort SC
  11. Welcome to the game! I'm like you and did everything myself. It is a lot of fun and quite a few skinned knuckles!! The best part is taking it to an event and telling everyone you did it yourself. If you have a question make good use of the search feature. Chances are it's been done or asked before. Like it has been said before buy the best Z you can afford. I'm a paint & body Manager and knowe how much it costs to fix these cars. The car doesn't need a good engine but the body should be in good shape. Don't forget things like interior & exterior trim, those alone can run into thousands of dollars to replace. Texas should have some good rust free cars for the $500.00 to $1500.00 range. Then buy the parts needed for the caonversion and have a blast!! Good luck and again welcome!!
  12. Try this webiste for the ultimate TT SBC http://www.montygwilliams.com This is what I'll be shooting but a 750-800hp version.
  13. I do not have a twin turbo V8 yet, but I am putting in a tube frame and 85 vette front & rear suspension to handle a 427 SBC twin turbo. Nice to see someone else with a similar passion for a super fast Z. My chassis should be complete by next summer. I plan on putting back in my NA 377 SBC to sort out the chassis, while I'm building the turbo engine. I'm hoping to have all done by the following summer. Rick PS Very nice car!!!
  14. I'll check a catalog I have at home for a throwout bearing with an internal mechanical stop, line & master cylinder. I belive the entire set up was less than $300.00. I'll post it tomorrow. Rick
  15. I saw a 1970's vette last month with a new all alluminum ZL1 crate engine. What a beast!!
  16. You can use metric ends. as for the flares I recomend using a double flare on all brake lines. Single flares are prone to tearing and leaking. not good foe brake function. A double flare kit is fairly inexpensive around $50.00 or less from any auto parts store or tool truck. Rick
  17. Welcome aboard! We have another event in March at Reynolds Ga on March 14th. Go to the motorsports forum and look for Next SEZ event or use this link http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=26691 It will be a good chance to meet alot of us and put faces & car to the names. Rick
  18. The best I've seen is the C4 Vette suspension. It is realatively inexpensive and there are alot of hop up parts availible. There are alot of companies ofering a front, rear or full frame utilizing this suspension. I am currently building a custom frame with the C4 suspension from an 85 vette front & rear. I have the bottom frame done and am currently build ing the roll cage. check out my link at picture trail below. when it appears type in V8ZRACER260Z in the white box on the left side. If you need any help feel free to post or email me back.
  19. The spray is PB Blaster and like they said let it soak in and try it. If not then heat it up with a propane torch. Hav a spray bottle of water handy for any flare ups (Grease is flamable) This will expand the metal and hope fully break the rust bond. Rick
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