V8ZRACER260Z

I just tried the link and it works.

Check out this link to the new Attack Kit car it is based on a Honda doner car and the kit is less than $17000.00 Euro's http://www.k1-styling.sk/default2.htm

You can't be too safety concious. Do not just "go by the rules". To me if your going 11's a full cage, a 5 or 6 point harness, driveshaft loops, ect would be a minimum requirment. Your track should provide you a NHRA rulebook as a guide, but stay ahead of the rules. I try to at least follow the next more stringent set of rules. If you run 11's follow the rules for running 10's. Rick

Looks very nice! keep posting updates

I had my stock speedo burried at 160+ with one of Florida's finest in the rear view. Well, he was in the rear view long enough to see him turn on the lights. I'll see what it will do after the modifications are done in a safer environment like the Silver State Classic. Rick

I have a set of 15X7" Used Enkie rims for sale. You can view them on my alblum page. They are in decent shape and I would take $300.00 for all four with two new 215/60R15 on one set. send me an email if you are interested. I am switching to a vette rim pattern. Rick

Looks good James! Can't wait to see it run. Let me know if you and Scottie come to Gainesville for a little grudge match warmup. Rick

This is a bad area to have rust as there are alot of different panels joined together. Make sure you remove all the rust or it will come back to haunt you later. Cut it out back to good solid metal. This will be easier once the outer rocker panel has been removed. Once you have it all cut out then fabricate the inside pieces out of a sheet of steel. Use the same thickness steel as what you removed. Test fit the pieces together as you may not be able to get to weld them properly if they are not done in certain order. Generally working from the innermost piece out works. Make sure you use a weld thru primer on all areas you are welding and the welding process can create "Hot Spots" where rust can start again. The weld thru primer will help eliminate them. It would also be a good idea to spray body wax inside the rocker when you are done. This is availible at body shop supply houses like Finish Masters. Good luck! Rick

Do not use laquer thinner. It will attack the plastic & vinal pieces. Try a clay bar if the parts are smooth. there are several brands of overspray removal liquids out there like "Goof Off". These are primarily designed for exterior sufaces. Go to a reputable upholstry shop and they will have recommendations for you. More than likely they will need to be painted or redyed to remove all of it. Rick

The intended goal for my car is a twin turbo V8. I'll be going the conservitive route with a target of 550 to 650 HP. Mine is a daily driver with occasional track time. My friend Mike & I are taking measurements as we go and should be offering plans or a frame kit to those interested in doing something similar. Keep in mind this is a major job. Do all your home work before starting or use the experiences that others have learned. I planned this for over 5 years and just started the cconversion a month ago. Good luck and I'll help out where I can. Rick

I'm currently building a tube frame with 2x3" bottom and 1 3/4" tubing on the cage & braces. You can visit the link at the bottom of my post. Use my user name in the white box on the left of the picturetrail page. I have been planning this for over 3 years and finally started about a month ago. I am using a full C4 vette suspension. Mine differs from that of "fastassdatsun" in that my setup is a perimeter frame. This keeps the seat mounts at the factory height. Mine also incorporates the factory vette front crossmember which can be unbolted. This allows me to drop the front suspension & engine at once. This also positions the engine in a front mid engine design. This involves moving the firewall back several inches, which can be tricky. I'll be forming the firewall this week and will post updated pics soon. I also narrowed the rear end by 8" allowing for the 335/35R17's to bee on the back with only 3" flares. As soon as I am done with the frame I'll purchase the new rims & tires and then fit the body to them. Good luck on your set up! Rick

Well guys the bottom frame is complete. Next is fabricating the new firewall, tranny tunnel & rear floor. Then it's time to bend some tubing. I should have this done in a few more weeks. My friend Mike is doing an awesome job with the welding. We may be offering a kit or welded subframes if anyone is interested. I'll posted some updated photos in the corvette suspension cont. Ablum. It looking good! Rick

Everthing is on schedule. I have the entire floor removed and the front suspension & car are at ride height. I am going to pick up the rear subframe today. I am expecting to hafe the front & rear done by the end of next week. Then time to make the floor, firewall, tranny tunnel & full roll cage. A lot of guys have been asking why I cut up a perfectly good car? As I am progressing along there are less sceptics and more wanting to see it done. I have a clear picture of what it will look like in a few months. It will be different & Bad!!! There are current pics on my link. Rick

I hope you brother makes it thru ok. The 3rd Inf Div is a large unit so I'd say the odds are in your favor that your brother is alive and well. I know what he is going thru, as I was there in 1990-1991 as a US Marine. I can tell you as a veteran that we are over there doing a job. It is a dangerous one, but we will prevail. Keep sending him letters as it will remind him why he is there and it really helps your morale when you are far away from home and in combat. My hat is off to all the soldiers, like your brother, fighting to defend our way of life. Semper Fi! Rick

I've used them for several years, and though I have broken a couple, they hold up alot better than the OEM ones. I think most of the guys running big HP have gone to CV halfshafts or a vette suspension like I am doing. Rick

My kind of ride! It' got just what it needs with out all the bells and whistles and it's fast. Thanks for sharing this. Rick

Well The two side rails & the rear crosmember are welded in. We will start building the cage & front frame rails next week. It coming along great. I just took another vette suspension down to Hunter kit cars today and exchanged it for having my rear subframe built. That should be ready next weekend and we should have it welded in by Monday. If everything goes ok I'll have it sitting on the wheels in less than 3 weeks. Then comes the making of the floor & firewall and flaring out the fenders & quarters. I'll post some new pics next week. Rick

Spirit, Thanks for th ecomments. Sound like you have alot of fun in the upcomming months. The site is http://www.picturetrail.com and in the white box on the left type in V8zracer260z. The site will do the rest. I'll be creating my own web site further into the project, but I'm still learning the software and heck that is time I could be spending on the car. Rick

If you are just going drag racing your best bet is to go the 9"route with a rear subframe kit from Jeg's, S&W Racing, Ect.. For this you would have to cut out the rear floor and lower the car to ride hieght and start weling it up. If road racing is you goal then go the C4 route like Scottie, Fastassdatsun.com & Myself. This rear can handle alot of abuse and looks very trick. I am building my own frame and using the factory front corvette crossmember & rear suspension. This puts the engine about 4-6" farther back than the JTR kit for better handling. I am into road racing more than the drags. You have to decide what you want to do with your car and go for it. Check out my link at picture trail for progress on my suspension setup. We just got started but did a rugh mock up to check the fit of brakes, steering, ect.. Good Luck! Rick

The suspension is a 1985 but all the C4's are similar. I'll post measurements once I'm done for anyone interested. Rick

Check out my entire suspension swap at the link on my post. The user name is V8ZRACER260Z. This should be pretty radical when I'm done. Rick

I need to know if the pinion flange is the same on a R230 as it is on an R200? Let me know Rick

There is no substitute for Cubic Inches. Congrats on your new ride. Let us know the details. Rick

Your suspension will drop right out if you loosen the upper strut bolts and the lower strut rods. Disconnect your steering coupler and then undo the four bolts holding the crossmember to the fram rails. You should not need a plasma cutter or a saws all for this. What you do need are the frame measurments for your year Z. If you can't get these have access to another Z to take measurments from. The frame rails must be installed exactly and this is what supports your engine and suspension. All you need to do this is something to remove the undercoating and paint, A 5/16 plug cutter for drilling out the spot welds and a welder. Again this is probably the most important part of your car so make sure you know what to do or take this to a body shop to have them do it. If you have everthing stripped out the charge should only be a few hundred dollars to have them cut out and welded in. If you do this your self be carfull drilling out the spot welds as to not deform the remaining metal. It is ok to drill all the way thru the spot weld as you will be using these hols to weld the new rails back on. Be sure to use a weld thru primer and spray body wax with along wand inside the rails to prevent any corrosion from starting inside the new rails. I hope I didn't scare you off of doing this. I just wanted to let you know what is needed to do the job correctly.

There are several Roller Lifters availible for direct bolt in. Check in Jeg's catalog. Do make sure you use a roller cam as the ramps are different. If you talk to the tech guys at Jegs and let them know what your doing they will let you know what you need or contact Comp Cams and they to will have a package that will work for you. Rick