Matt Cramer

Let me know if you need to set up a return. If we made a mistake and the spark outputs are shorted together, it will be fixed under warranty - if not, will need to charge a diagnostic fee for testing. How exactly are the coils wired up externally?

Can you also upload a data log of the idle issue? This will give me more to go on. Didn't see much obvious in the log other than that on these cars, you'll usually want to use time based cranking instead of trigger return.

Ok, you've got the timing lined up - first big hurdle crossed. It's likely that drew the battery down too far and is making starting difficult. Get it recharged first, and then dial in the startup fueling. If it won't start on a charged battery, pull a spark plug and see if it's wet or dry.

In addition to checking for vacuum leaks, make sure it's not too rich in the cell with the runaway idle, and try pulling some timing out of that point. Also, is the idle speed set screw backed out all the way?

We generally respond on most weekdays, but the office is closed on weekends. Or email us at websales@diyautotune.com - that generally is the fastest way to contact us.

The latest MS3 code (just released earlier this week) allows you to specify if the homing position is closed or open.

Boost control would be set up as JS11 normally, so you'd turn off the other uses (coolant based on/off and ignition).

I have one working on a 4.8 powered pickup - same throttle body as a 5.3 - with an MS3-Pro. I'll see if I can get the settings posted soon. In the meantime, here are some notes on troubleshooting steppers: Preliminary settings First, make sure that the idle control is set to one of the stepper output modes, not PWM or on/off idle control. For initial testing, we recommend using open loop instead of one of the closed loop modes. Closed loop requires more complicated settings and has more that can potentially go wrong. The time step size is how long the stepper driver will command an individual step. If the valve is perfectly dialed in, this will match the time it takes the coil move the motor through a single step. If this value is too low, the step is not completed, and the valve does not move. If the step is too high, the valve will move more slowly than it can - but otherwise there aren't any consequences. Your best bet is to set this for 10 ms, then decrease until the valve no longer moves. Then add 0.5 to 1.0 ms. 4 wire valves that turn freely usually need to use "Always On" mode. Valves that are difficult to spin by hand usually need to use "Moving Only" mode; the same goes for all 5 or 6 wire valves. The start value needs to be set to a large enough value that the valve retracts fully from any position the valve can reach during operation. Now, on to troubleshooting specific problems. Problem: Valve vibrates when commanded to move, but does not actually turn. One coil is wired backwards; swap wire 1A for 1B, or 2A for 2B. Problem: Valve moves, but in opposite direction of intended. Both coils are wired backwards. Switch wires 1A for 1B, and 2A for 2B. Problem: Valve does not move at all on initial power up. One possibility is incorrect wiring. Make sure 1A and 1B are on one coil, and 2A and 2B are on the opposite coil. The other usual problem is the step size is set too small. Try increasing it and see if the valve moves. Problem: Idle speed is not consistent from one start to another at the same temperature. Usually, this is caused by the start value being set too low. Increase this value until the valve retracts fully. Problem: The valve retracts normally, but then appears to stop working at some point during operation. First, check to be sure the algorithm is not set to "15 minute IAC"; this will switch the IAC valve operation mode after 15 minutes, and is only used with a few specific valves that behave differently when warmed up. Next, try increasing the time step size and/or minimum number of steps to move. Some older valves can have problems with stiction. Increasing the time step size will send a longer pulse, while increasing the minimum number of steps to move will send more pulses that can un-stick a stubborn valve. Problem: Idle speed hunts while the number of steps displayed is constant. It's easy to assume the IAC valve is responsible here. After all, it's supposed to control the idle speed, and the idle speed is behaving wrong. However, this is likely to be an issue with the ignition timing or fueling instead. See section 6.5 of the MS3-Pro manual for idle tuning.

Those wheel decoder settings would be right for two consecutive teeth ground off; if it's two opposite teeth, set it for a 12-1 crank wheel. Setting the spark to "wasted-COP" will use all three LEDs, JS11, JS4, and JS5 as spark outputs. If using three spark outputs - even if wired to COP coils - this should be wasted spark. You've also set JS11 as a boost control output and as a programmable on/off output triggered by coolant temperature. So you have set JS11 for three separate functions. This needs to be fixed.

Under Project Properties, you've got the EGO set to "wideband in NB emulator mode" - try changing it to Innovate LC-1 Default instead. That should get the AFR target table sorted correctly.

Do you have a copy of the MS1 MSQ and a data log of how it idles there?

I'd start by adjusting the spark table - try around 15 degrees of timing at the RPM you want to make it idle at, and 18 degrees 200 RPM below that. Also, I'm seeing some very lean readings - it looks like the VE table needs some tuning.

Are you using an IAC valve? If so, what type?

This sounds like it's for some reason configured to target voltage instead of AFR; can you post a copy of your tune file?

Our assembled MS1s are set up for fuel only unless special ordered otherwise.

It's roughly 6.5" long, 4" wide, and just under 2" tall.

We can fix ECUs we originally built, but are not set up to work on ECUs bought elsewhere or built from a kit. For those, I'd recommend Peter Florance; he's the guy we send our hardest warranty work to. Here's his website: http://www.pftuning.com

Was the 15 pin connector in question on the computer or the MS? The 15 pin connector on some MegaSquirt versions is an expansion connector that, if used, is meant to be wired to the engine. The 15 pin connector on laptops is a graphics output connector. Trying to use a MegaSquirt as a graphics display may cause a short circuit.

About the only difference is one resistor on the VR conditioner input; if you run into problems with it, you can add a 10K resistor inline with the VR sensor to get the same behavior as a V3.0. MS1 V3.57s don't sell very much for some reason. Most people who go for an assembled unit either go for an MS1 V2.2, or an MS2 on the V3.57 board. I can understand why some people figure the MS1 V3.57 doesn't exist; it's pretty rare.

If you want to check the opto input circuit yourself, here's a simple test: With the Megasquirt powered up, apply 12 volts to pin 24 or TachSelect, and check the voltage on the TSEL jumper with a voltmeter. You should read zero volts. Next, ground pin 24 so it has no volts on the input circuit, and check TSEL's voltage again. You should see 5 volts there. Let me know what you find.

That should give RPM. Can you pick up an RPM signal on a Stim?

We're not really set up to do customer tuning, unfortunately. Ed Senf is no longer at Balanced Performance most of the time, but they guy they have tuning now does a decent job. There's also Forged Performance in Marietta.

Some firmwares do display O2 without a tach reading - is this an MS1 by any chance? Can you post a copy of your MSQ?

We're hiring for a new tech support position: http://www.diyautotune.com/jobs/job_openings.htm Your primary responsibilities would be to answer a mixture of pre-sales questions and aftersales support for our Engine Management Systems, Fuel Injection and Ignition products, as well as other tuning aids/tools such as wideband o2's systems, EGTs, etc. The position is very email/forum heavy, so there's a lot of typing involved. Telephone support is part of the job as well though we currently direct much of it to email. It's very tech heavy, and requires someone with a background in automotive mechanics with excellent problem solving skills and good computer skills. Those computer skills should include reasonably quick typing ability as well as the ability to use internet resources (forums, search engines, etc) to be extremely resourceful in finding answers to just about any problem they could ever come across. I don't expect you to know the answer to every question, but I do expect you to be resourceful so that you can find the answer to just about any question. Need to know cars and automotive performance thoroughly. An automotive tech background or engineering schooling is a big plus, though possibly not required if you have ample experience. Experience installing and tuning engine management systems, either ours, or others. The ability to understand/grasp complex subjects and to explain them in a manner that just about anyone can understand. And the patience to do so... You need to be very good with a computer, the person that helps others figure something out, not the person that has to ask for help frequently. Honesty and integrity are an absolute requirement. Customer service skills are very important. How to work with and help a customer, who sometimes may be a bit frustrated and over their heads technically can be tough-- But we must do so with the goal being to bring the experience to a satisfying conclusion that makes the customer happy and helps him/her to be successful in their project. We must do this while at the same time not sitting on the phone holding their hand every moment helping them make every single decision... We have to be efficient in helping customers, and we have to ensure we make every reasonable customer happy (which thankfully is most of them). As I tell everyone here, we're too small of a company to have small job descriptions. We all pitch in and do it all. The above is the primary role, but there are other tasks around the shop we'll need help with from time to time, whether it be cleaning up, or loading/moving materials/parts/equipment, or working on a shop project vehicle. We need someone with a 'can do' team player kind of attitude that's willing to do what it takes to get it done. Good technical writing skills are a plus as well so that you can help documenting common issues to our knowledgebase which we will eventually open up to customers to help them find the answers to their questions easier. The tech support/sales departments works a fairly regular 8:00-5:00 Mon-Fri shift, with some flexibility. We have considered expanding support hours beyond that at some point, but don't have any solid plans yet. College experience/degree is respected, though for the candidate with the proper skillset/experience this is not required. Salary depends on relevant skills / experience but will likely fall in the upper 20's-mid 30's range to start. Can you hit the ground running already knowing our products well enough to help others out? Feel like you're a good fit based on the above? Please send your resume, references, and salary requirements to job@diyautotune.com

The first thing I'd do is confirm the MegaSquirt is getting RPM on the Stim.