Matt Cramer

They're the large blue or gray boxes with little screw heads on top, in the middle of the main board.

It could be you're just not rolling into the throttle hard enough to trigger it in the positive direction; it looks like it triggered normally later in the log, and you were lifting faster than rolling on throttle. Also, what's your TPS ADC at closed and wide open throttle.

Could you post an MSQ and data log?

Is the TPS enrichment not being applied, or is this just somethign that looks weird?

We just unveiled this one at PRI. This new system is based on the proven MegaSquirt-III design, but DIYAutoTune.com has revised it heavily to better meet the needs of professional tuners and racers. The MS3-Pro combines the features of the MS3 with MS3X, Knock Module, and Real Time Clock Board on a single circuit board in a sealed case. The o-ringed case is splashproof and, if you want continuous immersion resistance (the MS3-Pro displayed at PRI was at the bottom of a fish tank), it's easy to add a bead of silicone for extra protection. The MS3-Pro is ready to support a wide variety of engines out of the box, with the ability to run a V8 with sequential fuel and coil on plug, a V12 with sequential fuel and wasted spark ignition, or a four rotor Wankel with separate leading and trailing ignition outputs. Over 50 different ignition modes are supported, from mainstream applications like the GM LS1, Bosch Motronic, and Chrysler Gen III Hemis to unusual modes like Renix Jeeps and the Suzuki Swift GTI. The MS3-Pro's packaging is a departure from most previous MegaSquirt EFI Systems, although it has a noticeable resemblance to the V3 MicroSquirt. Instead of the industrial looking split aluminum case and D-sub connectors, the MS3-Pro uses a sealed high temperature nylon case for light weight and compact size, and heavy duty AMPSEAL connectors. This provides a compact and sealed enclosure protecting the sensitive internals from the elements. The MS3-Pro's design keeps the heat generated to a minimum, allowing it to use a lighter plastic case instead of a metal heat sink. Retail pricing for both the ECU and wiring harness will be under $1,200. Expect it to hit the shelves by January 1, 2013. Click here for more details on the MS3-Pro.

I'd change out the HEI module - maybe for a BIP373 and direct coil control.

Also, be sure the ignition key doesn't cut off power when moving from Start to Run. Had that issue crop up on my Dodge Dart.

Wait, you just told me the "MS is controlling just fuel." I'll assume that statement was wrong and what you told me now was right. If your previous statement was true and your current statement was false, let me know. You should be able to use the distributor to trigger the MS if you set the MS up for VR input.

Ok, in that case, forget about spark output. Does the Crane box have a tach output? There are a couple different style ignitions Crane has made, and they don't all wire up the same way.

Ok, in that case, forget about spark output. Does the Crane box have a tach output? There are a couple different style ignitions Crane has made, and they don't all wire up the same way.

I'm confused; are you trying to have the MS control just fuel, or have it run the spark too?

My guess is it's pretty difficult to grind off the tooth perfectly smoothly; you often wind up with a little bit of "tooth" left that might or might not trigger the sensor depending on RPM.

I don't recommend grinding a tooth off; this can lead to noise issues. The top tooth should function perfectly fine as a single trigger tooth.

It would be better if you could attach the whole file.

It sure can; try capturing the sync errors in a tooth log.

You're welcome, glad to hear it's solved. I traced the problem to a blown Q1 transistor.

That wiring method should be fine - are there any injector resistors in the wiring that you haven't told me about?

That is what they should be - no lights without the daughter card. Correct there too. Sounds like the ECU is good. I'd check the wiring at this point.

If you could post your MSQ, I can go through it for other settings that could cause this.

On MS1, it is possible to accidentally set injector bank 2 off, particularly if you try composing a tune from scratch instead of starting with the default tune file. This article may help - remember, the Stim LEDs are just test lights hooked to 5 volts (and 12 volts will work fine too). http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/megasquirt_injector_driver_troubleshooting.htm

Could you post a copy of your MSQ? This will give me more info on what's generating the error message.

You're welcome.

The eMS-Pro has a different pinout. We've got a wiring diagram (not Nissan specific, but between it and the diagram posted earlier, it should be enough to get by) for it as part of the install guide here: eMS-Pro installation guide The eMS-Pro doesn't do direct coil control, so it will need an external ignition module like an MSD-6, HEI, etc.

To check for a short in the Megasquirt PCB, power up the Megasquirt on a Stimulator or on the car and check the following points for voltage with a multimeter. You should find the same voltage as the battery voltage on the following points: S12, S12C, the center legs of Q9 and Q12, the left (non-banded) end of D3, the left leg of U5, and the left (banded) end of D9. You should have 5 volts at the following points: S5, the two +5V holes in the proto area, the right (non-banded) end of D9, the right leg of U5, the left (banded) end of D19, and pins 1, 20, and 31 of the CPU. Let me know where you find the correct voltages, and where you find the wrong ones.

The MS2 normally uses the ADC in 10 bit mode (1024 steps), so that range is perfectly all right. MS1 uses an 8 bit ADC, 256 steps.