Drax240z

Or you could just click on the link in his signature.

Very sorry to hear that Mike.

Looks really good! There are certainly some 280zx roots there.

Tony, I read that you mentioned it. I felt it was incomplete so I added to it... which is sortof the point of a forum I believe. My point was to drive home "what if you don't" do that. I'm not putting down the cheap IR gun as an option, only trying to ensure folks understand the implications of its limitations. As for SS... you can have SS anywhere in a large range of emissivities, from the very small (~0.1) to much more (~0.8) depending on the grade and surface finish. A simple flat black spray painted dot as you've suggested ensures those issues are no longer a concern.

One comment, the higher end heat guns have adjustable emissivity, the lower end ones are set at ε=0.95, which is suitable for a flat black surface. If you take a cheap(er) gun set at ε=0.95 and take the temp of a shiny/reflective object, it will read very low. ie: it may read 90°F and you think you could touch it, when in reality it could be 200°F and you'll burn the crap out of yourself. With the higher end ones, you can set the emissivity in accordance to the surface you are trying to check, reducing the error on non-flat black surfaces significantly. I understand the theory behind emissivity... but I had one memorable lesson on the application of it, that really drove home the theory part.

But all year around you must use proper punctuation and grammar.

That's a great shakedown in my books... sounds like you did a great job bringing things this far. Minor stuff now!

I'll start this with saying I don't know your specific circumstances, so I'm going to make an assumption and forgive me if I'm wrong. I have worked with thousands of mechanics through my jobs. (maintenance manager for some extremely large operations) I absolutely advocate buying the right tool for the job, buying it once, and having it for the rest of your life. With that said, make sure the tool you are buying NEEDS to be one of the uber-expensive brands to fit that bill, and make sure you are going to use it enough to justify it. I've seen a lot of apprentices roll in with $20,000 worth of cabinets and basic S-O tools, spend their first years pay (via credit) on more S-O stuff than they'll ever need, and pay the price for many many years follow. All the while the journeyman mechanics are there with their well used (and well cared for) rigs with 1/4 of that in tools, spread out over 20 years of work... and doing a better job with much less invested. The point? Be selective. Pick away at it. Don't buy a snap on hood ornament adjuster for a 54 rolls royce for $300 when you know you'll only use it once. It may be a great conversation piece in your cabinet, but weigh it against things like accumulating debt, buying a house, etc. As far as buying tools go (the original question), I would look at the ease and availability to get replacements as a high priority. S-O does well for that, I don't know how MATCO compares in your area. My personal philosophy (as a part-time mechanic at best) is that I only buy the high $$$ tools when it's 1) complex, or 2) used a ton. As a result, my ratchets, sockets and wrenches are the only things I splurged for S-O on. The rest, is guaranteed for life stuff, by a local big box store. I can get replacements easily, and generally they put up with my usage levels.

Can't wait until the track shakedown, Mike you are miles ahead of me on the project, you should be proud you stuck with it and got it "done".

Do you expect a local newspaper to arrest and try any people who scam using their classifieds? And the word is "I" not "i".

I've been scammed on the classifieds. I think I'm member #68 here, which I think qualifies as an "OLLLDDDD" member, and have been a moderator for the past 10 or 11 years. What do you think happened to the scammer? Nothing. Why? It was my word against his. I had no proof to provide the other mods and admins of this site other than my word. I don't know the details of your transaction or accusations. I have no way of confirming them even if you told me. That's why Hybrid doesn't police the classifieds in the way you are suggesting. There are ways of dealing with transactions gone wrong. Most local authorities are quite willing to get involved, and there are plenty of courts out there that will deal with these issues.

With the curvature/routing of the runners being modeled in this thread, I'd be wary of using any number (ie: 7°) as a theoretical maximum taper, and use some CFD or flowbench options to verify the actual design. If I was going for an all out race build. Thus goes the theory of intake design... I'd be shocked Nissan considered half of this stuff when designing the L-series cast log manifold. At some point, you make compromises in the theory, and build something within your constraints. Fits in the allowable space? Check. Gets air from a filtered source and directs it into the head? Check. Possible to build? Check. Those tend to be the more important constraints than velocity stacks, runner taper, pressure waves, etc. etc.

Good discussion here that might help you out: http://www.atlanticz.ca/forums/index.php?topic=578.0

I see quite a few, including UHP summers: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?skipOver=true&width=225%2F&ratio=50&diameter=15

Woohoo! It lives! Great stuff, can't wait to see a little bit of video. You'll have to try some 0-60 runs for comparison against stock. Should be an awesome "sleeper". (If an M car is ever actually a sleeper)

I've been following since the early days too Michael, glad to see you still fighting with the BB... I'm with Mike Kelly, starting to love the drivable cars more than the project cars! Argh!

LOL. I really should make myself one of those mounts... want me to make you one too Ron?

I'd be shocked if RT didn't have an RT diff mount!

Sorry to hear about those issues John, you've come a long way since the early days with the car! I think Scott nailed it, times change, and if the car takes too long to build it doesn't change as fast as we all do.

LOL, nice John. Check the FAQ section?

You could buy my car, transplant the M engine and sell the "old" (350 mile) L29 turbo.

I would refund the money in whole or arrange something with the buyer to refund in part. To tell someone in Norway "just deal with the USPS yourself" is about as rude a response that I can imagine.

LOL... nice. Interesting concept though, please post some feedback on fuel pump noise once you are done. It probably would have been easier to just keep the BMW Ron!

Ugh!

Been there, done that... bought a house.