Drax240z

No way!!! A turbo gives you drivability gains big time. I can put my grandma in my car to drive and as long as she doesn't mat it, my car will behave as a 125hp fuel injected commuter. Hit the go pedal and all of a sudden there is twice as much power and torque on tap. What's easier to moderate in traffic, a 300ft-lbs @2000rpm setup, or a 125ft-lbs@2000rpm setup? And for boost response... 1.3 seconds at 5000rpm is NOT typical of most turbo engines, despite what some people experienced in the early days of turbochargers. (and consequently wrote them off as being laggy) A well designed turbo system has response almost no different than an NA engine. V8's have lots of advantages, but the beauty of ANY turbo system is that you can have the best of both worlds, drivability AND power.

I'm running 200f/250r 1-1/8" front bar, no rear bar, and illumina's all around. I haven't had any issues with the illuminas. Still playing with settings on the track, but on the street I run 3 in the front, 4 in the rear. I'll probably go with a smaller front bar and a rear bar once I get my LSD installed.

Out of curiosity, what flywheel were you using. Stock, modified, aftermarket...? Hope you are ok!

All I can tell you is that pro/E is very powerful, and very crappy to use. I've useda lot of CAD software and while pro/E has a lot of neat things about it, it takes 10x longer to model something than it does in Inventor/Solidworks/etc. It's a major pain in the ***, but the more 3d modelling software you use the easier it is to learn new ones... and pro/E is still used in certain industries, so it does look good on a resume. Personally I'd never use it if I had a choice of another software package.

The discussion on these forums is both a) to further peoples knowledge, and to make sure problems don't occur. Granted we've had our share of mental masturbation type posts here in our 5 years, but I think even those that aren't directly discussing a problem that has occured, do have value all the same. I like to think that our little community here is well educated, and will always take in more information than is needed to make a decision just to be sure that they are well informed about the topic at hand. "I know of no failures in the 8 years we've been making them" is fine and grand, and I'm happy you haven't had to deal with any issues evolving from those failures. I don't doubt that the thickness you've copied from HKS/etc. all has been very well researched and documented by them before they made it, and using that R&D to your advantage by copying what they made is intelligent. However, I can see in the picture that Clifton has posted that the Greddy/Trust unit has a radius in the place in question. Your thickness might be identical, but there is more to the equation than thickness. I'm not suggesting that it's going to fail. I'm simply suggesting that in engineering terms, any chance you have to eliminate a stress riser, you take. Especially when it is so simple in this case to do so.

The question is when it is a matter of adding a negligible amount of weight to the unit, why have sharp edges at all when a small radius edge is far more resilient to failure? The normal loads might be small on this portion of the flywheel, but abnormal things do happen. (someone trying to engage the starter when the engine is running, for example) As for the three machinists being wrong, are you disputing that a sharp edge creates a stress riser? Or that threads can create a stress riser? Or are you simply saying it's not something you worry about? I wholeheartedly agree that a billet flywheel is far superior to a cast one.

Most good technical forums are a lot more stringent than we are...

Hrm, we should be more strict on our guildelines here...

Go around the hurdles. Who the hell set up hurdles in your garage anyway?

Looking good Matt. Keep on it!

This just in: Velcro glove sales up 400% in CA!

I've never hooked up or seen a choke hooked up on a dozen or so weber/mikuni/solex cars I've had in my shop... It's really not necessary.

BRE rear spoiler looks MUCH better in my opinion... then again, I have one on my car.

Actually I read on the news this morning that Californians found two new uses for sheep........ meat and wool!

LOL yeah a hood would be a good thing. Looking good though.

Mark Ortiz is the guru of all things chassis... Got any harder questions John?

My best suggestion is to look through the turbo and 6 cylinder forums and read... lots and lots on info on different engine builds there. Then ask your questions.

Suggestion for Glenn280zx: Rather than even post on this thread, change your times to the correct ones, or if they are correct post the timeslip. Anything else and these wolves will be at your throat. (call that a hunch)

All L6 engines are direct bolt ins to all 70-83 240z/260z/280z/280zx as far as motor mounts and trannies go. Your best bet to do the swap is to buy a running 280zx turbo car and transfer from it to your car.

Does all the work of 2 herders for the price of 1!

Yeah even the classic looks to be 17" and larger only... anyone know for sure if they still make 16" wheels at all? (Preferrably in classic style)

Use 75w-90 in the diff. RTV is totally fine for a diff cover gasket. I know you aren't doing the install yourself, but I'm going to outline the proper and improper ways of making an RTV seal because I see it done wrong a lot. The wrong way: Usually involves the person using WAY too much RTV and putting the piece in place while the RTV is totally wet. What ends up happening is the RTV squeezes into the places they don't want to seal (ie: inside the diff) and it makes a hell of a mess. The right way: All surfaces should be clean and lapped flat if possible. Degrease surfaces. Apply a thin continuous bead to the mating surface. Once this is done let the RTV cure for ~5min so that it skins slightly! Very important step there. This will ensure that it doesn't squeeze all over hells half acre when you reinstall. Then go and reinstall the cover/flange/etc making sure to put the bolts in such a way that the flange/cover doesn't move when it's being tightened, and so that it stays parallel to the mating surface. When done the right way RTV will be no problem as a sealant in most situations.

I'll never be without a set of gear wrenches again. I cannot believe how often I've used these since I bought them about 2 years ago.

Haha. Dan's car has no balls. (anymore!)

Well I pulled them off a turbo car myself. However with that said it's entirely possible that a) canadian model is different (I know for sure other parts are different on canadian model 300zx) or the car had a non-turbo rear end/axle swap, as it was made from a pair of cars.