Drax240z

It's a great option for increased ground clearance, just pricy. They'll flow very well.

I idle best at about 13:1 with heat range 8 non-protruding plugs as well. I determined best idle mixture pretty much just by using a vacuum gauge. I have a theory that I need MORE timing under boost to prevent ping. I think my ping is being caused by my timing being so late the flame front is moving out the exhaust valve into the manifold. I am using non-projected plugs and running 18*-36* timing, all in by 3000, retarding 1.5* per psi boost. At 10psi that is 21* timing, but with non-projected plugs its probably more like 17* equivalent. Thoughts?

Don't use an intank pump in a external position. It can overheat and die. I use the GSL392 pump and it works awesome. It's quiet too!

I wanted to start a little thread where we could exchange some info on tuning, specifically with a wideband. What are your target AFR's at max load? What are your target AFR's at light throttle? What are your targer AFR's at part throttle? I've been shooting for the 12.5:1 area for the most part in all cases, slightly richer under full load (12.0:1 or so) and slightly leaner at lighter throttle (13.5:1). I still feel I am way too rich down low, and up top too, but I still ping occasionally. So what are your tuning targets?

Also if you have to change diameters, take a look at getting a "mandrel bent" reducer and use as shallow an angle as you can. (ie: stretch the size transition over a large length, rather than having it abruptly change diameter) http://www.burnsstainless.com sells the reducers I am talking about, I am sure they are available at other places as well. Burns collectors are VERY VERY nice quality as is all their stuff in my experience. (when only the best will do!)

Another note on exhaust gas pulse theory. Clints basic explaination is true, but a real world model becomes increasingly more difficult to predict. Clint's above example is complete for a single cylinder engine, but once you start throwing in collectors and multiple pipes merging, you start to get pulse reversions through the non-pulsing cylinders as well. On top of that there is more than just 1 wave created off each pulse, each wave created can reflect a few times and each reflection acts as another pulse. This is a bit more commonly used in intake tuning, as the pulses travel a shorter distance, but significant gains can be made with 2nd pulse tuning on top of tuning for first pulse. Of course you can't have everything, so first pulse tuning is more important overall, but if you can make use of 2nd or 3rd pulses as well you are doing well. (and most of the time the frequencies of these additional pulses fall into place in your usuable RPM range) Exhaust collector design and routing as I said becomes increasingly difficult with more tubes at the collector. the goal is to stack the pulses to have the first cylinder aid the flow of the second, and so on down the line. So knowing your firing order you can figure out what cylinder needs to collect where. (specifically on the more common 4-2-1 or 6-2-1 design) The seconday pipe length and diameter also plays a significant role. Applied to most exhaust manufacturing this is beyond the scope most people need to reach. It is becoming increasingly important in new cars, and high RPM cars/motorbikes can really benefit greatly from this wave theory and tailoring their designs to maximize their results. In the end it is all about increasing efficiency at the rpm the engine is used at.

Fair enough. Clint, what are you basing your pressure loss calculations on for bends? I can see it in industrial piping, even crimp bends than your "3x" number can be accurrate. I can't see the same being true for 2 mandrel bends being compared however. Maybe I am wrong, but my gut tells me otherwise.

Er, you can have 2 45 degree or 2 90 degree bends and end up with a 0 degree direction change John.

There is some arguement to buy from whoever is closer to you too. I spent $146 on 6 bolts from MSA. No kidding. That's what I had payed by the time I had the 6 correct bolts in my hands. That was my last MSA order.

You didn't search well. Take a look in the turbo forum for a while.

I'd look at the nismo, powerbrute or 300zx clutch type limited slips for your application and if you want to stay on the cheap end.

You'll notice the wheel choks on the rear wheel of Tim's car. Man would it suck to forget to do that!

I think you are probably right I will be upgrading the turbo in the future, probably something I should do before the cam as far as bang for my buck goes. I'm looking for throttle response improvments, low end grunt, and a broader powerband. Not much, eh? If I could broaden my powerband by 500-1000rpm's it would be worth it.

I've always done a purge of the tank with the garden hose for a good hour or so before attempting any welding on it... so far so good. A little dish soap tends to cut the petrolium quite well and get's rid of the residue... Just make sure you rinse it well afterwards.

I'm looking at upgrading my cam from the stock unit. I am not making huge power but I am hoping that a better tailored cam can give me some increased throttle response and maybe a bit more broad of a torque curve. Colt cams has spec'd me the following cam for my setup and I'd like to hear others comments on it. First, my setup: 8.3:1CR N42/turbo pistons T3 turbo 440cc/min injectors NPR medium IC SDS EFI 2.5" mandrel bent downpipe to 3" exhaust The cam they spec'd for me was: Int: 280* 0.510 lift Exh: 256* 0.491 lift 112 LDA Radically different from what MSA sells for their turbo cams, but Colt has quite a bit of experience with L6's, as they have all the resources from Shadbolt Cams at their disposal as well. (Shadbolt made the best NA autoX cam I've seen) So anyone have their cam specs to list and provide some feedback on? I'd like to hear what works and what doesn't! With any luck I'll have a dyno at my disposal soon to compare whatever cam I end up with to the stock one.

DO you know what the breakaway torque is on that unit? From what I recall the Nismo unit is 75ft-lbs which is just about perfect for autocrossing. (according to how to hotrod & race your datsun) Have you driven the car much with the LSD in it? Impressions?

Redz85, I think you are the first person I've seen who used nylocks, lock washers and locktite on the same bolts. Paranoid? Hehe, just yanking your chain. Do you know if the precision gear unit actually a rebadged nismo unit or are they making it themselves?

Top notch customer service means he will spend 2 hours on the phone with you patiently explaining to you how to do something simple. Now his phone time might not be what it used to be, I don't know for sure.

I have a straight through muffler and it's quieter than some NA's. What do you want, luxury car noise levels? It's marginally quieter than a straight pipe was on the turbo engine...

Ross works another job 40+ hours a week hence the reason for no direct phone line. The Z community just isn't large enough to support him 24/7, or I'm sure he'd have phone lines available to the public. I've used lots of his parts and they are top notch, he goes the extra mile to include EVERY piece of hardware you might need, and his customer service is top notch.

Ross includes about $80 worth of extra stuff with his kits, specifically for the S30 install.

Aren't N1's the RB26DETT turbos? Someone here must know what the RB25DET came with for a turbo.... even if you can confirm any of the info I've posted that would be helpful, it's hard to find much on the net about this turbo.

I'd go MM all the way with anything performance wise...

Waterpumps are centrifugal pumps, meaning that they draw in at the center of the pump and discharge on the outside, similar to a turbocharger compressor. You should be able to follow the path with that info!

I have a chance to buy one of these with 67,000km relatively cheap. Just wondering if anyone has any info on them. I know it's a T3 flange, ceramic turbine, plastic compressor, and it's ball bearing. Looking for something that will be more reponsive than the stock T3 and maybe this is it! Anyone know exhaust A/R, flow rates, etc? I know these don't like to be pushed past 15psi.