Drax240z

I've used it and it's not bad, just hard to tell what holes correspond to what advance/retard. Seems to me the hole were labelled 1,2,3,4 A,B,C,D and for the life of me I can't recall what order those were in. Worked well for the car it was on though. I'm not 100% certain it was the same brand name as the one in the auction, but it looks identical.

Honestly I can't see a lot of gains from a 3" downpipe over a 2.5" downpipe with the stock turbo. The outlet of the stock turbo is ~2.125" from what I recall. Ideally you'd leave the turbo outlet at 2.125", flare at less than a 10 degree angle up to 3" or so, and then run 3" all the way back.

I am certain you will be slower with your list of mods. I am sure at this point traction is an issue. Getting more torque to the wheels won't really help you if traction is allready an issue, and that is all you are doing with the change to a 3.9:1. At higher speeds where you have traction I think you'll find the load from the 3.54:1 over the 3.9: gearset will have you pulling more boost, sooner. ie: you'll be faster with the 3.54. For all the trouble it is to change, I'd say give it a try and prove us right or wrong. I know someone in the past did the exact same thing and posted their results here, and they were quite a bit slower with the 3.9:1 ratio.

Way back when in this forum, someone did a back to back comparison in the 1/4 mile between a 3.90 setup in a turbo car, and a 3.54 setup. The 3.54 was quite a bit faster. Many others chimed in that they found the same with their cars. I put a 3.54:1 in my turbo car, and allready have enough torque in 1st and 2nd that traction is a real issue. With a 3.90 that problem would be worse, and I'd also have to shift sooner. Even as far as autocross goes, I am able to leave corners at the bottom of 2nd gear and the car pulls well from low rpm in 2nd gear with the 3.54.

Jon you can simply buy the solvent off them and then have it recycled by them too when it gets dirty. You don't necessarily have to pay for a contract where they come on a monthly basis to swap fluids, you can pay by the use as well.

Not sure if you guys have it in the US, but we used a company called Safety-Clean for our solvent needs. It's all green stuff, and they will dispose of it when you are done as well. (recycle it) Works awesome, and actually is surprisingly safe for hands, not like varsol, diesel, etc. Even if you don't have that place, I am certain there are companies local to everyone that deal in this type of product and chemical recycling. Please don't throw the residue in the garbage, have it recycled.

Uh yeah, you are driving a 280zx! Waaaaaay more room for rubber under there than on the earlier Z cars.

My first reaction was to delete the post alltogether but I though this 'example' might steer more people in the right direction. (ie: read before you post, search, etc.) This is probably one of the top 3 most covered topics here on hybridz. In the end it comes down to people being lazy asses, and wanting someone else to hand the answers to them rather than doing what amounts to a minutes worth of work. Maybe their time is so much more valuable than mine, that I should feel obligated to search for them, I don't know. These views don't necessarily represent anyone else but myself, but this type of thing has worn out its welcome in my mind anyway.

Your pic doesn't load for me.

Meh, not trying to be an ass about it, but if you spent half the time that it took you to type your post, searching the forum instead you'd have found out a lot more information.

My 72 240z L28ET ran 13.83 at 9psi and an open 3.54:1 diff. Sounds familiar! I had some serious traction issues...

http://www.super7cars.com I know this guy quite well and his system flat out works... in an 1100lbs car! You should be able to get your Z to 1800lbs without too much problem and that engine...

For what it's worth I wouldn't use 1/8" if it were my car. Overkill! 14ga would be a big improvement over stock, if you want to err on the side of overkill 12ga would be good. Save the weight and put it towards a good roll cage, but better return in stiffness vs. weight gain than sub frame connectors with increased thickness. Given the choice between 1/8 and 16ga I'd probably choose the 16ga honestly. I'm all for a rigid chassis, I just think the weight is better gained elsewhere. If your floorpans are also 16ga just weld 1" of every 2" and seal it super well. Use a weld through like these guys recommend, and try to spray inside the frame rail as well. Warning: Mild steel is usually coated with a wax, you'll need to clean that off AND rough the surface up if you want POR-15 to stick to it well. Make sure there is no way for moisture to get between layers of metal and sit there when you are done. (use seam sealer, undercoating, paint, or a combination to ensure this doesn't happen)

Look through the paint and body section a bit... Johnc was working on these no more than a couple months ago, I am not sure whether they are ready for production or not.

That would be the ballast resistor. If you have electronic ignition and a 12V coil you can get rid of it. Most OEM coils cannot handle a full 12V for too long however.

You could try John at Beta Motorsports too. http://www.betamotorsports.com (johnc on hybridz)

The load control is an option for the Dynojet and one that most places don't spring for. It's a huge tuning benefit, but most places can make more by simply providing people with a dyno sheet and some basic tuning, as that is what the majority of customers want.

Nope, never been done. Looks like you have come to the wrong website.

Clean like mad, and paint if necessary. It's all about the cosmetics!

Yes it looks like the float bowls still had fuel, it might be a problem on higher length runs though. Looks like maybe your fuel pump isn't up to the task. You should be able to run a little more timing if you are using high octane fuel. Try 12 degrees initial if you can figure out how to read your setup! With Torque falling off so hard after 4500rpm I'd be looking to eliminate the air restrictions in the system. I'd say either your exhaust or intake (or both) is choking off the car pretty badly at high RPM... are you using the stock cam? If so, there is a lot to be gained yet! Your AFR's look reasonable to me.

Jon, there are probably around a dozen forced induction FSAE cars every year. There is no rule against it, but doing it properly with the required intake restrictor and throttle placement isn't an easy task at all. Cornell's FSAE team has run E85 on their turbo engine for as long as I can remember, and they are the most sucessful team in FSAE history.

Formula SAE has been using it for years as an optional fuel.

Just playing Matt... I lost about 1000 posts too.

Paved or Gravel? TSD? Performance? Interesting event idea though...

Congrats man! I got my B. Eng. (Mechanical) recently as well. Finding a ME job in California shouldn't be too hard, half the jobs I came across when I was looking seemed to be down there. (mostly automotive jobs)