Drax240z

I read some really good reviews on Blitz stuff. Search around the web for some comparisons on how well the various controllers manage to keep boost spike and creep in check. I seem to remember Blitz products performing better than the rest.

Most modern EFI systems take air temp into account, so no worries there for me. I would say as a rule though, the cooler the air you get, the better. I don't think there is any reason, even with an archaic EFI system to want warm air at all. Tell me that your car doesn't respond well to cool weather the way it is now.

My 72 240z with turbo motor, IC, piping, R200 diff, sub, amp, extra sound deadening, etc. weighed in at 2440lbs with a full tank of gas.

I run 200/225lb/in F/R on the street/autoX with illumina's. Going with a much higher rate than that and you'll start to not want to drive the car on the street at all. If you want a 'racy' feel, and good handling, this is more than enough. If my car was only a street car that I wanted to feel tight I'd run 175/200 probably.

Bastaad, it is't that we are ragging on YOU per se, it's that the information in the first post is quite typical of peoples (mis)perceptions of dyno's. That they give an absolute horespower and torque measurement. You said: I think everyones point is that neither of them are "wrong", they are just different. You can't expect results between 2 different dyno's, or 2 different days to make sense when compared with each other.

Just FYI, even the pullers fail if you are dealing with cars in very wet areas. I broke a puller (3 times, after replacing parts with upgraded ones) getting 1 pin out. Best method I've found so far: Pay someone else $25 to deal with it.

I think the 1970 240z weighed about 600# less than the later 280z honestly. You could probably get the 280z to within 400# of the 240z pretty easily though. There was just a big thread here comparing 280z vs. 280zx that listed the weight of all models, I suggest looking around for it.

Cool Cody, at least that gives me some sort of rough guideline to go off of. I am going to measure my air intake temps and compare with a bunch of other locations in the front of the car. I may just make a shroud for what I have too. I think I can probably drop my intake temps by 25* though, as my intake is somewhat behind my radiator. (down low, but it gets a mix of cool & hot air)

Hey Nigel, any chance you can forward that info to me? I am not sure I need it as of yet, but it would be nice to have if I do.

My temp on the SDS and my autometer gauge read the same. Your temps do look a bit low to me. Where did you install the sensor? I put mine in the lower thermostat housing. Are you using a large radiator? What kind of coolant fluid mixture?

Happy ho-ho, Merry Christmas, whatever you celebrate this time of year. Be safe everyone and enjoy what you have.

No matter how bad it is, it could always be worse. I'm less than a week out of a breakup with the girl of my dreams. Be thankful you still have each other to share the occasion with, and keep trying.

Oh my god, where did all the testosterone around this place go to? Vacuum cleaner debates! Come on guys!

Ah, you see I like that downpipe a LOT. (not sure why the flange is made of 2 - 1/8" thick pieces and welded together though?) It's not just about volume of the pipe though. Any kind of step from the 2.125" to a 2.5" or 3" section will cause turbulance when the flow seperates. (ie: if there is an abrupt change) This could concievably cause slowing of the turbine wheel depending on where this step took place. At a minimum it will reduce flow, and the bigger the step, the more flow will be reduced. This is what I am not entirely convinced a 3" will be worthwhile over a 2.5" system if there is no diffuser design incorporated.

Anti-AIDS drive. Staple through the condom.

I bet a properly designed diffuser from 2.125" up to 3" will make more power than just a straight 3" system. How's that for an answer? The 3" system vs.vs the 2.5" system... well I'd say the 3" will make SLIGHTLY more power, but packaging will be an issue. I was able to do 2 45's with my 2.5 system, no way I could have done that with a 3".

Heh, I can't believe you guys didn't catch that. Too funny.

I'm not sure who gave it to who, but a breakup. Argh.

Well I know we've been through this topic before, but it's been a year or two and maybe someone has stumbled upon an answer and not posted it. The engine: N42 head 8.3:1CR Stock turbo bottom end SDS EM-6E MSD 6A MSD Wires 280zx coil 440cc/min injectors T3 turbo NPR IC 60mm TB The problem: At light to medium throttle openings there is occasionally a slight hesitation. Mostly this is noticeable when cruising down the highway at steady throttle inputs, at around the speed limit. This problem has existed since day 1 with this car. It also corresponds with a lean spike ok the wideband. These things have been altered or checked and did not solve the problem: - 3 different sets/types of plugs - Gaps from 0.044" to 0.028" - 2 different ignition coils - 2 sets of injectors (260cc & 440cc) - 2 different fuel rails - 2 different intake manifolds - 2 different intercoolers & plumbing - 2 different MAP sensors - 3 different fuel pumps - multiple modifications done to MAP signal with no effect on problem - 2 sets of ignition wires (MSD blue, MSD red) It's not a big deal, it doesn't seem to do it under boost or high throttle openings, it's just annoying. The only sensor on the car that isn't new is the TPS, but I cannot get any kind of erratic reading out of the TPS when manually opened and checked. I'm kinda thinking I've either got a wiring issue somewhere, or my MSD box is faulty. Ideas?

If your goal is to compete on the track, concentrate on traction rather than more power at this point.

Well I really commend you for finding the time to work so much while going to school, that's a tough haul at times! I suppose I could have worked while at school too, instead I spent 50 hours a week on FSAE on top of my classes. That would have been a lot of money had I been getting paid!

I read some figures recently, and I don't recall where. Somewhere it was stated that every 10*F temperature drop in intake temperature basically equalled a point of octane. (ie: lower temp = same effect as more octane) Has anyone else experimented with this and come up with a correlation they want to share? I am curious to know how sensative my engine is compared to air inlet temp. (ie: where the air filter is) I know cooler is better. How much better is what I want to know. Is it worth hours of experimentation to drop intake temps by 20*F? (I would expect so, but...) Any insight appreciated.

Dude I have no idea how you spend so much on your cars as a student!

Absolutely agree 100% with that statement, and can't emphasize that enough! The only way to make intelligent improvements to ANYTHING is one change at a time, so you can document and scrutinize the results. As soon as you start playing with different dynos, you are changing MANY factors at once. (Calibration, ambient temp, humidity, possibly dyno manufacturer, airflow, exhaust extraction, etc.) Any of these can have significant effects on your readings. Stick with 1 dyno facility. Try to do mods between pulls on the same day, as close together as you can get timewise. Only change 1 thing between dyno runs before retesting.

Honestly it doesn't sound like you are getting ripped off, it just depends how much more you have to spend. A V8 swap into a zx is a pretty big job, and there is lots of labour involved. Get a breakdown of the bill thus far and post it up for us. Labour adds up really fast on custom projects.