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Everything posted by Drax240z
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Bleh, must we hash this out again? For reference, a friend just dyno'd his stock 95? camaro at 180rwhp with a 350 in it. Granted that may be on the low side for that engine, but 350's aren't producing huge numbers over and above what the average L28 turbo's are. With minimal mods an L28T can be putting down 240rwhp and 300ft-lbs. I'm talking a $10 boost controller here and maybe a rising rate regulator. Personally I think spending $10 over and above the relatively cheap swap of the L28T (it's a bolt in) to get those numbers is cheaper than a 350 swap to achive those numbers. Anyway, not to say the 350 isn't a valid swap, good performance, yadda-yadda-yadda. I just think the L28T get's no respect and people have an over inflated view of how much power 350's make. (and yes, I know of umpteen people here making SERIOUS power out of a 350, I'm not saying it can't be done... I know a lot of people here making serious power out of an L28T too) As for why I assumed he had a turbo, he said his car was "laggy" and I usually associate that term with a turbocharged car automatically. As for Johnc's potentially earth-shattering comments... I couldn't agree more.
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Will the Shiro axles work with the 240sx viscous LSD? That would open up some interesting possiblities.
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Quite a bit if they are in good shape. I've seen them go for up to $500 a set on ebay.
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Sealing pipe joints for garage air compressor lines
Drax240z replied to jhaag's topic in Non Tech Board
Teflon tape works perfectly well if applied correctly. 3-5 layers thick, cover first thread so it doesn't push back, and wrap in the right direction as stated above. Always use a high quality teflon tape not the el cheapo crap! Loctite makes some liquid PTFE pipe sealant though and it works well, it's just a little bit messy sometimes. -
I'm using it and seems to work well for me. I still need to spend some more time tuning though.
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One of my favorite topics, I just have to chime in. In my world travels I've had the chance to sample some unique brews. Denmark: All their christmas beers are great. Hard to beat a Tuborg for a cheap brew. New Zealand: Tui. One of the best brews I've ever had, best IPA ever. Scotland: Some of you seem to agree with me that McEwans was invented on a dare. Take half guiness and half scotch, and this is what you end up with. Not for the faint of heart. My favorite Scottish beer is Fraoch Heather Ale. Yum. England: I always liked Newcastle and Hobgoblin. (Witchwood Breweries) Ireland: A pint of Guiness is hard to beat in any country. Canada: So many good micro-brews here, especially on the left coast. Stay away from molson or labatts! Vancouver Island Brewery's lineup is great, anyone that makes a beer called "The Herminator" is making some serious beer. Sleeman's Honey Brown reminds me a bit of Newcastle and is cheap to boot! Alexander Keiths if I'm slumming it. US: Despite the bad repuation American beer has around the world, there are some seriously good microbrews in the US! Can't remember many names, but there is a great one in washington state that is eluding me at the moment. It would be really cool if we could mail local brews to each other to try out!
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Can you run shorter springs?
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Mike I think you are missing a few key points. Aerodynamic design isn't all about Cd, not by a long shot. Hell if that was the case how do you explain that a F1 car has a Cd worse than a barn door? The missing part of the comparison is downforce. Yes a Z and a Z06 might have the same drag numbers, but while the Z is making lift at any speed, the Z06 is making downforce. As a general rule, the more downforce you have, the more drag you have. F1 has spent countless dollars trying to create the most downforce possible with the least drag possible, and in the end they end up with Cd's of around 0.8. Whether it's the design of a F1 car or the new Z06, the tradeoff of more downforce is almost always more drag. Anyway, just a little segway there to emphasis a point. I think it's pretty damn cool that some of the high ups are dreaming about having a hybridz!
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I walked around the streets of Regina at -38C.......... in shorts and a T shirt. Well for 15 minutes anyway. Which let me go about a block, I was stopped by at least 10 people commenting on my attire. Passing cars were honking at me and giving me thumbs up out the windows. Crazy people. Coldest I've been out in for any length of time is -50C before windchill, windchill pushing it to about -70C. Balmy Prince George, BC! We hit -120C with windchill at the coal mine I used to work at. Imagine being on top of a mountain in the rockies, with no trees and you basically have the scenario. If we're talking snow, I lived in Revelstoke, BC for a few years. Highest snowfall in canada out of any municipality, averaging ~28feet per year. The point? After all this experience, I move to Vancouver Island, nice balmy weather. The valley I live in has the highest average temperature out of anywhere in Canada. Snow is a rarity... maybe a day or two of the year we get traces.... 5 minutes ago I just finished shoveling about 4", and we have had about 3' in the past week. The worst part... I'm driving the turbo Z in it!
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Why I like dogs, cause my wife left with everything.
Drax240z replied to dr_hunt's topic in Non Tech Board
"Living well is the best revenge" Now THAT is wisdom. -
Can't recommend Rocky Mountain enough! Not sure if you can find them in the US very easily though.
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Try TWM induction for the stacks. They are pricy though.
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starting a game plan: 73' all stock z, motor build discussion 101
Drax240z replied to a topic in Nissan L6 Forum
Read the FAQ at the top of the turbo forum... -
Well I disagree again. The shortest, largest runner you can fit will not give you anything close to optimal. Rather than go through this all again, I'll list some reference links: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=94252&highlight=intake+manifold+design http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=78952&highlight=intake+manifold+design There is tons of info here on intake manifold design.
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I hate to make such a blanket statement, but you'll never get 10psi out of a 10:1CR L-series with 93 pump gas. Not for long anyway. The L-series head isn't anywhere near as efficient as a modern head design, and once you start pushing over the 10:1CR area naturally aspirated you're going to be running into problems on pump gas. Throwing a turbo and any kind of boost on top of that will compound the problem.
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Not necessarily true. The runner diameter also plays a large role. A large diameter long runner won't necessarily boost low end torque more than a small diameter short runner. Stick to keeping it relatively close to the stock plenum/runner dimentions and you'll be in the right ballpark when it's all said and done.
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Yes that's right, we used villager exhaust manifolds.
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If you decide you need to go custom with the exhaust manifolds take a look at some minivans with the VG30 in them. The manifolds are a tubular style header, much easier to play with than the stock Z31 cast jobbies. I can't recall off the top of my head what minivan it was, but I am sure the info is out there on z31 sites.
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The 87 distributor may work if the plugs go in the top of the cap... the problem with the z31 setup is that the plugs enter in on the side, and if you have the pathfinder plenum there isn't any way you can plug in the leads. (with the Z31 distributor) Pathfinder wires aren't cheap either since they are a wonky special kit, with 3 extra long boots. Somewhere around $80 for an NGK set. I've been down this road before. Oh yeah, you might also have to change valve covers on the drivers side to get your PCV to work. That may not be necessary as an unmolested pathfinder plenum may have enough clearance.
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Some sort of social get together involving alcohol and members of the fairer sex. Beyond that I have no idea.
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The cost will add up quickly with that manifold. You need the manifold, distributor, mounting plate, and new plug wires for a 93 pathfinder. None of the Z31 stuff will work with that manifold.
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These reviews were pretty good I thought: http://johnmonnin.netfirms.com/Boostcontrol.html http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0207scc_boostcontrol/