Drax240z

Well Quebec had their chance to seperate in 1995, and in the end voted to stay with the rest of the nation. Since then popular opinion in Quebec has swayed even more drastically towards a united nation. I'm not sure what you mean by this, but I can't see any shred of truth in it. If you are implying that there are Canadian players playing for US teams int he NHL, you are correct. With more than 80% of the leagues players being Canadian, there aren't enough teams up here to support that kind of talent base. If you are implying that we have players that have renounced their ties to Canada to play for the US teams (ie: Brett Hull... and others) it is only because they either weren't invited to play for team Canada, or they were invited to try out for the team and didn't make it. As far as Americans moving over... Personally I'd prefer if it was a little more difficult to get into my country... There is a reason the United Nations had rated Canada the best place in the world to live numerous times in the past decade. (every year from 1994-2000 if I am not mistaken) I'd prefer a bit more screening involved before letting people from other countries capitalize on our good fortune, good planning, and good luck.

Naw it just means that most of your posts were useless. Just kidding, I have no idea.

Argh, you beat me to it!

I was under the impression that the turbo manual pump was higher pressure than the NA pump, and the turbo automatic pump was higher volume & higher pressure than the NA pump. Can anyone confirm that?

They are 15x7".

The diff isn't an upgrade... maybe overseas the 85 300zxt came with an LSD but it didn't over here. It also isn't exactly a straight swap. (but it isn't too hard to do) You allready should have a R200 in your car, so swapping to another R200 seems a bit pointless, unless it is the gearing change you are after. With the increase in torque you are getting however, I suspect your gearing in the 280z should be just about perfect. (assuming it is a 3.54:1 R200)

Dude! You copied my car! Well I use the swastika's with my track rubber though.

I just installed my Magnaflow PN 14619 muffler today. Not a huge difference over the straight pipe, but noticeably lower tone, and less intrusive noise levels and tone overall. It's a nice match with a turbo I think, if you are looking for an agressive tone still.

Well that is true, I've seen guys use lathes with some serious blacklash going on, probably with tooling movement of 0.002-0.005" and they can turn out a pretty decent part once they know the machine really well. To me it's no different than buying cheap hand tools though. You get what you pay for, and a failure can mean serious damange to you and your equipment, loss of wages, or a lot worse.

Spend the money on a high quality drill press, rather than a low quality mill. A milling machine is something that should be able to turn out a quality part or it is useless to you. A $350 mill isn't going to do that. Also wil a mill, budget a few grand for tooling, minimum, to be able to do anything useful!

I also could not get the taurus fan to fit in my car with the Lseries, with lots of trimming, offsetting, etc... it just wouldn't go. I ended up getting a flex-a-lite slimline (part number 116) and it fit perfectly and was really inexpensive. (less than $100)

I think that my car at ~240rwhp is exceeding my driving abilities at times. At the very least, I know I can get myself into trouble with it easily. On the track, traction is a huge issue, but I wouldn't be any faster with more power. In fact I MAY be faster with less power. Some additional grip/LSD would go a long way. Upgrading the brakes/tires on my car would go a long way to allowing me to stay out of trouble. The track is one thing, but on the street it's so easy to overlook something (wet road, deer, other cars, road debris, etc) that I am not sure I NEED more power. I guess what I am trying to say in a round about sort of way, is that if you build the car for the power, it's a whole different ballgame than just swapping a powerful engine in a car that isn't ready for it. I have a roll bar, strut braces, coilovers, bushings, larger anti-roll bars, etc, combined with good performance alignment setttings, and the car is fairly well balanced. It's controllable, I can drive it hard without surprises on the track. If I drive hard on the street, 100mph+ comes up very fast, and those wet patches/gravel can be quite... troubling, to say the least. My advice (which I didn't follow well enough myself) is to build the car, then build the engine to suit the car you've built! EDIT: Oh yeah, if you just want to smoke honda's and 5L you don't even need an engine swap!

It actually bonds quite well to sandblasted metal in my experience. But as John says, clean metal, non-prepped, you don't get very good adhesion. You can't use a classical primer with it either, you need to POR-15 products if you want to prime. (metal ready)

The most accurate I've seen a cars speedo from production dates newer than 1992, is 4.6% error. Just because it is a new car, unchanged from stock is no guarentee that the speedo is accurrate. Rallyists would jump all over a car with 0% speedo error.

Colortune and unisyn do entirely different things. The colortune is used to set your fuel mixture. (for those that don't know, the colortune is essentially a sparkplug with a window in it so you can see into the cylinder, and set mixture depending on the color of the flame) The unisyn is used to balance your dual or triple carbs. The unisyn is a snap to use, just balance both at idle and at about 2000rpm or so. (use the set screw on the linkage to achieve a steady rpm above idle) After this is done (and take your time to get it right) you may still need to make mixture adjustments. That can be a bit more difficult, but can be done by ear fairly well. There is lots of info on the web about tuning mixture on SU's.

CFDF clutch in my car has been perfect since I installed it. I have 9000 autocross/fun miles on my car with the CFDF. I followed the break-in procedure exactly and it seems fine. With that in mind and given others experiences, I'd consider using the CFDF pressure pate and getting a bit more aggressive clutch disk to use with it. And break in procedures are important, not just a suggestion.

Man trust me, you'll look back on this desicion and wonder why the hell you didn't do it sooner. Been there, done that, wear the scars from it. But one of the best moves I've ever made all the same! Things seemed bleak for a while, as I am sure they will for you... I had some regrets, some questions, but deep down I knew I did the right thing. Then I met this girl and well... I had no idea what I had been missing out on!

Take a look at the FAQ at the top of the turbo forum...

Try Aurora Bearing, they've always been able to get me metric stuff no problem.

VE is defined as the volume of air (at atmospheric pressure) than a particular cylinder ingests, divided by the displacement of that cylinder multiplied by 100. So if your 600cc cylinder ingests 650cc of air (at atmospheric pressure) then your VE is 108%. A well engineered intake system can easiliy have VE's over 100% in some RPM ranges. Turbo and supercharged engines obviously can exceed 100% VE quite easily.

Wow guys, I am thinking of hiring a mechanic in the new year and wouldn't dream of paying him less than $20/hr. I was thinking that $25/hr was fair. This would be flat rate based on book time. Then again, this isn't a dealership we're talking about here. I suppose I expect a bit more as far as qualifications go than just a license as well.

I think the work required would end up costing more in the end than just getting a 3pc set custom made...

Usually around 3psi works well, but if you have fuel starvation issues you may have to go a bit higher. (3.5 or 4psi) Rarely will you need more than that.

On a stock L28ET (or stock compression anyway) I was running 20* initial, 36* total, all in by 2750rpm. Boost retard was 1* per 1psi boost to a maxium of 15* retard at 15psi boost. This worked quite well with the stock P90 head setup. When I upped the compression on my motor I had to be a little less agressive with the timing.

Actually Tim, Rodney joined this site before he started up that company. He and I were talking about V8z's and comparing them with FSAE cars way back when. He just dissapeared for a while and came back to respond to some posts here about his product.