Drax240z

I'd certainly trust a company like Optrel to have spent money on R&D being damn sure they are safe as opposed to a company that turns things out as cheap as possible... likely copying someone elses product without understanding it, or what is important about it. I deal with this kind of stuff all the time, cheap knockoffs made in China by companies that copy others and have no understanding of the product at all, just doing what they see others doing without knowing why. In the end they change things the don't see as critical, but they in fact are. Just my 2 cents.

The first one is in the same spot as a factory seam, looks like someone has bondo'd over the seam and it's cracked. Not sure about the second, though in that position it's probably more likely to be rust related.

You guys that are saying you would have junked that car don't know how lucky you are living in Texas or California and having rust free cars available! As for the quality of work, you are putting a LOT of professionals to shame.

5 bolt rear hub. +50mm offset wheels. At least for the moment!

Perfect! Looks like metric might not be an option for me thohgh... Need a ~3" long stud. I guess I'll need new lug nuts anyway.

These ones? On ARP's website: Camaro, Firebird, Corvette, late GM Knurl diameter: .509 Length: 2.500 Nose: .315 Thread: M12x1.5 PN: 100-7708 Can anyone confirm that 0.603" size for me? My hubs are not in the same city as me at the moment. And Jon if you have a PN that would be a huge help to me.

Hmm, nothing came up in a quick search. What wheel studs are people using for the z31 front hub/5 bolt conversion? Trying to get an idea what size shank I need to fit the Z31 hubs without having to redrill them significantly. I'd like to stick with metric studs if possible too. Any info appreciated.

In my experience there is no comparison between L28T and SR20DET for off the line torque, the L series wins hands down every time, it's not even close. For me the SR20 feels really doggy before 4000rpm.... at least with a T25 or T28 turbo it does.

Why are you choosing the 300zx R200 housing over the 280zx R200 housing? Am I missing something? (pulling a blank here though something tells me I know the answer) Very cool and robust swap, should be cost efficient too!

1) 6250 is a conservative rev limit. 6500 is probably more popular. 2) Depends on your fueling. 3) At full boost you should be around 20-24* total timing if possible. 4) Factory intake can support much higher than stock numbers. However, significant improvements have been made by swapping it with a better flowing one. No aftermarket ones are available at the moment as far as I know. 5) Almost all these questions have been answered before and doing a search on each will educate you much more than this response will.

You're going to run 2 of those monsters? Crap!

A metal headgasket should be fine without o-ringing. What are your power goals?

Uhh, yeah you can't disconnect the POV and leave it in the intake manifold... major boost leak! (over 8psi anyway)

You should be fine with just a metal headgasket. I am running a N42/turbo piston setup which is right around 8.3:1CR. The 1mm gasket will put you around 8.5:1 which should be fine with a quality intercooler and good fuel control, which you seem to have taken into account. Sounds like you are on the right track.

Read the FAQ at the top of this forum... you are fine probably, depending on the specifics of your setup. Try to provide us with a bit more information. (what head, what pistons, what CR, what intercooler, etc.)

Are any of you achieving significant caster gains with using urethane bushings in the front control arms? I'm curious to know how much binding is going on there. I am at 2.9* caster and not sure I can get much more out of the front without modifying a-arm to accept a spherical bearing of some sort. I really should get some more caster though, I think that would solve a lot of my low speed cornering push.

If this turns into a P90 vs. N42 debate you are all being decapitated. Consider that a warning. With that aside, great info!

This topic has been beaten to death and there are some really good threads on this site discussing it. Search and ye shall find. No need to keep this one going...

Then do it daily for 5 years and tell me you aren't tired of it.

Do a search. Thread locked.

For those interested, Mark Ortiz puts out a free internet newsletter (the name is escaping me at the moment) and it is excellent reading on all things suspension. I'm sure a quick websearch will find it for you.

None of this has any bearing on the question or topic at hand, which is performance vs. cost. Regardless of being able to get chevy parts cheaper than nissan, the cost of the swap is the cost of the swap. In the case of the nissan you need a wrecked donor car and a $10 grainger valve. In the case of the 350 you need a wrecked donor car, and custom made motor mounts, tranny mount, driveshaft, radiator, etc. My point was you can make ~250rwhp (or 300flywheel horsepower if you prefer, though it really doesn't matter which we compare all else equal) cheaper with an L28T swap than a 350 swap. All of which is moot if he doesn't have a L28T swapped into his car at this point, which is what my initial assumption was, for right or wrong.

I thought the stubs (or at least one of them) were longer on the viscous setups, but I could be way off base with those thoughts.