Jump to content
HybridZ

Jwink25

Members
  • Posts

    298
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jwink25

  1. Looking for a car that has a blown engine or bad tranny might be a good idea. You should be able to pick one up cheap that way. Finding one might take awhile. I almost didn't bother looking at the 1971 240Z that I now have...it was in the paper for $400 and said fixer upper, needs restoration, doesn't run, ect... I thought well rust bucket, POS. I called anyway, talked to the guy, it had been sitting for years...but had some work done to it. Why was he selling it? He was going to fix it up for his son but, his son didn't want it! I went out to look at it and...OMG! There was this car in sorta black primer but it was straight with hardley a spot of rust anywhere! Oh, and he had enought parts to put almost two of them together! We are talking two engines, trannys, two everything! I was drooling over this one. What a great find I thought to myself. Oh, and I got it for only $300. I didn't have $400 on me and he was needing the garage space. I filled up my rented storage building with the extra parts. Took 3 full size Chevy truck loads to get all the extra parts. There where also several new in the boxes parts as well. I'll never find this good of deal again. You never know what you might find out there. Just keep an eye open. Good Luck! Jason
  2. http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/index.html Another Ford V8 swap page....this guy is awesome. His name is Terry. He has one of the baddest Z ever!
  3. http://zcar.netdojo.com/main.htm Alsis home page...the guy I got my mount from.
  4. http://datsun.getyours.com/Z_Photos/z_photos.htm Ford V8 conversion for under $1000
  5. Someone has a website up that did a ford 302 swap for under $1000. As far as there being no kit out there....that is not 100% correct. I bought a cross member that allows you to bolt in a small block Ford. I got it from Alsis. I paid $125 for it...and I think that it included shipping. It bolts to the frame of the car. You have to drill a couple of holes, nothing to hard. As far as the tranny mount, I believe he just modified the Datsun one to work. You'll have to make/modify your own drive shaft as well. I would think about getting a JRT manuel and kinda follow it but, apply it to doing the Ford swap. I have been told there is a lot of good info in this book. I would have done the Ford V8 swap myself by now but, I had collected a couple of L28ET engines and went turbo L6 for now. My next Z will be a small bolck Ford V8 swap. Whats better than one Z? Two! hehe! Good luck! Jason
  6. Ok, thanks...anyone got anything for number 2?
  7. Got a couple of questions for you guys... I have a 240Z with a 1982 turbo 2.8L engine. 1. If I remove the EGR valve and cap off the holes, will it make the car run bad? I will be using the stock ECU for a little while. Others have done this I am sure, I just want to be sure. 2. If I upgrade to a 240SX or the Big Throat TB, will the stock ECU run the car ok as well? I think I will need to adjust the airflow meter, right? Plus, I'll be running more boost, a TO4B, 3 inch DP, and other minor upgrades. Thanks, Jason
  8. What all is needed to do this swap? I am thinking about doing it until I can afford a Microtech. Also, how far can the JWT take you, HP wise? Can I run different injectors with it? Do I just pull the Z31 ECU, MAF, and coil? Do I need any of the wiring from the Z31 car? Can I do the 240SX TB swap on this as well? Anything else? Thanks, Jason
  9. How much did it cost to get the hatch lock rekeyed? Just wondering. So, just take it to any locksmith and say...here, make this key fit this lock please. Thanks, Jason
  10. Hey Owen, what year of locks did you use? Thanks, Jason
  11. Sounds like a good solution! I have plenty of locks, two sets of them in fact...just no keys! Sounds like I found a cheaper answer than having my locksmith make new keys for old locks. Thanks! Jason
  12. HP wise I believe that the stock L28ET puts out about 180. I think a 240Z with stock L28ET will get into the high 13s? So a 280Z will be a little slower. I am doing a turbo swap into a 1971 240Z. You need to get all the engine wiring and computer out of the turbo car. GET THE COIL! I think the engine mounts are the same. I am going to use lots of aftermarket stuff in my swap...so I am not totaly sure if that is all you are going to need. Your car is already F/I right? So that will make some things easier for you. I am also, doing things like; 3" downpipe, upgraded turbo, gasket matching the intake and TB. Bigger TB...like a 240SX one. And if money allows, Microtech fuel and ignition system. Good luck, Jason
  13. So, the exhaust side is ok then? Is there anything that needs to be removed there? It looked to me that maybe the exhaust ports could be enlargened some? I'll take another look at it when I get it back tomorrow . thanks, Jason
  14. Could I just smooth things out a bit? Kinda just polish it, instead of removing much metal? Will that gain me anything on a turbo head? Thanks, Jason
  15. Maybe the Z got jealous?
  16. It is costing me only $110. They are tearing it apart, cleaning it, doing a valve job, checking the deck surface, milling it if needed, everything short of replacing valves, cam, and springs. Having a crack in the front timing chain area fixed as well; for an extra $60. The head came off a low milage car that was wrecked. So it doesn't really need anything other than that small crack fixed. It's just that while it is in the shop getting toren apart, to be cleaned, and have the crack fixed...might as well have them check the rest of the head, and get a valve job. I am having them give me the head after its been disassembled so I can do some mild porting myself. I'll gasket match too. Hope I don't screw it up, Jason
  17. Getting my Turbo head rebuilt. Is there anything I can have them do to add a few more HP...without having to pay to much more? (as if HP is ever cheap! ) I am gasket matching the ports myself. They are doing a valve job, cleaning, and checking the head, ect. Thanks, Jason
  18. Might have been some jealous ricer...you know, "my wing is bigger than your wing", kinda thing. Keep an eye out for a Civic with a Mustang wing. Just teasing you, that really does suck. I hate people who steal or damage others property. Hope everything gets worked out ok with the insurance company.
  19. Ha ha ha, yeap..only so many spots, that's my problem.
  20. Yeah, on the intake runners, I'll do the throttle body as well. I'll just wait until I get my 240SX TB. Jason
  21. Just match the gaskets and then tapper it back as far as I can each?
  22. One more thing, at the very top of the intake port opening, where the fuel flows in from the injectors, is it ok to grind some of that away. It won't mess up the fuel spray patteren or something? Just wondering. Jason
  23. I tore apart my intake to clean it all up and had been thinking about porting it while it is off the engine. I have never ported an intake before and have a few questions. 1. Being a turbo engine...would a mild port job be of any real benifit? I am upgrading the turbo and will be running a 3" DP. 2. I can see where the old gasket ended and where the extra metal is...should I buy a new gasket first, to make sure, it fits the same way? 3. Do I need to tapper it back into the intake? Start out getting all the extra metal up front, and then just tapper it back, as far as, I can go? 4. With the bits I bought, I can only go in about 3 maybe 4 inches...is this enough? Any other tips or thoughts to add to this? Thanks, Jason
  24. You might be on to something there...if you hook up the airconditioning system to your intake. Would that give you more power than it eats, when it's on? I am thinking no, but if you are going to have it on anyway... might as well try and get some of your lost power back. He he he Jason
×
×
  • Create New...