Jwink25

I dug deep and got enough to order some 17 inch rims yesterday. They should get here in about 3 weeks. It'll be a few months before the car is drivable...but at least I can put the rims next to the car and dream. Now I have to save up for some coilovers.

Isn't that the stock blow off valve in the background? Why is it still on?

Thanks for this great info guys. Where can I get a good A/F gauge that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?

Maybe Warner Brothers is the one who made that last bid? $99,999,999.00 Bugs must be REALLY lonely.

How much boost can I run without having to worry about fuel? I would like to see at least 250HP at the crank...maybe more. With an innercooler and say 12 psi could I see that? Would fuel be an issue then? Thanks!

I have a few questions I am hoping you turbo guys can shed some light on. I will be upgrading my stock turbo to a T04B. This gives me more air at lower boost levels...right? By doing this will I have to add more fuel? The engine is all stock except for the following... 1. The head will be gasket matched to the intake and exhaust and the bowls in the head will be smoothed. 2. I'll build a 3" downpipe and run a 3" exhaust all the wat to the back. 3. I'll be looking for an innercooler but may not run one at first. I am using the stock turbo wiring and ECU. What are my options to adding more fuel without it running like crap at idle or part throttle? Will a raising rate fuel regulator work? Or, can I just add slightly larger injectors? What are some of the things you guys did. I have seen alot of info about different people running different stuff...but most of it has been on cars with aftermarket engine management sys. Any thoughts or ideas? Thanks guys.

That's a great idea! I would love to have a couple. Also, a shirt and maybe a hat or something.

Cool! How much do they run and where can I find one?

This just sucks! I took the head off of my turbo engine today...I found two small cracks near the front of it. They are about 2 1/2 inches long and are located right behind the alt. bracket. The bracket was bent slightly because the car I got it out of was hit. If the head was not damaged any farther what can I do to fix this. They do not go near the valves at all. Its next to where the timing chain is. I think it would leak a small amount of oil if I left it be. Could this area be welded without it warpping the rest of the head? This sucks. On a more positive side the rest of the block looks like new. There is no step at the top of the cylinders, and you can clearly see the honing cross hatch pattern. So, I can just tear it all apart, clean it up, and then put back together.

How much did it run you?

So how can I get more fuel? Will the stock fuel rail/pump work up to 275 HP? Do I need bigger injectors? Is there a FPR that raises the rate with the boost that I can get fairly cheap? I am kinda new to the turbo thing. I did buy the book Maxium Boost.

I have a Turbo engine and need to know if I can gain any real horsepower by gasket matching the intake and exhaust to the head? Also, how about smoothing out the bowls in the head? I kinda don't want to tear apart the engine but since its on the stand, now would be a good time. But, I only want to do it if I can gain any decent amount of power. Oh, and what about the valve angles? Is the factory grind ok? Can they be ground at different angles for better performance? I would like to at least 250-275 HP using the stock turbo and EFI.

Some people cut out the spare tire area and then put a some sheet metal over the floor and then hook the fuel cell under that. They cut a hole in the sheet metal for the fuel door. I have even seen them put on a fuel neck and run it behind where the rear tags would go. Kinda like older Chevys.

I'll most likely run an electric fan anyway. I'll try the N/A pump and see what happens.

Hmmm...where is a good place to get a rebuild kit? Or, does anyone have a good used turbo?

Cool, thats what I thought. Now I have two new pumps I can use.

I sprayed the hell out of it with WD-40. I then took a 14mm socket and turned the fins. It was slightly stiff at first but know I am able to move the fins by hand. But what I want to know if they should spin freely. Like if I flicked it with my hand should it spin a few times? It moves but only when I am directly turning it. Are the bearnings shot? Thanks.

Would WD-40 work? What all comes in a rebuild kit? Only 40 bucks you say? I'll go look on ebay.

My engine has been sitting in my garage for over 1 1/2 years. I pulled the hose off the air intake side to expose the fins in the turbo on that side. I carefully tried to rotate the fins but they would not move. They look really clean and everthing. Why won't they turn? Could the bearings have rusted just sitting there? Is there a way I can unstick the turbo? The turbo should spin by hand? Right? Any thoughts or info would be great. Thanks guys. If getting this engine to run proves to costly I may have to go the V8 route. I already have the V8 mount. Hmmmm.......

Does anyone know if the water pumps on the L6 engines are inter-changable? I have a couple of new water pumps for the older 240/260 engines. Will they work on an 280ZXT engine? They look about the same...do they flow the same? Thanks guys!

Kinda scary.

I was just wondering how loud a 280ZXT engine would be if there was no muffler? It would have the tail pipe all the way to the back...just no muffler. Would one see any performance gains running without a muffler? Thanks, Jason.

I just called Centerline...they told me 5 inch Back spacing if I use coilovers. Does this sound right? Also, how does the car car handle and feel with this size of rim. Anyone have forst hand experince? Thanks

Ok guys, if I wanted to buy some 17 X 8 inch Pintail rims, what back spacing is needed to fit my car? I'll run coilovers but no flares. I have a 1971 240Z. Thanks! Jason