DREW RBZ

Check this thing out...wicked! http://www.mashamoto-auctions.eu/cars/showimages.asp?VID=25038&stock=yes

lol...oops..forgot about the other two screws...you would have been pulling at it pretty hard if you had not taken those out! Nice job with the photos...keep it up if you can...I should have done that..will help someone out in the future.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/126210-idiot-r33-owner.html

Ill take a shot at this...I remember this was a bit of work...anybody with tips please chime in as there are likely more experienced persons out there! ** Easiest to do this job with a helper** Remove the window from the car (I assume you are already at this point) ** Also remember that there are three seals that should be changed while the quarter window is out ( the front quarter seal, the glass to moulding seal and the moulding to body seal) Remove the philips screws that hold the metal tabs on the moulding together. They are located on the side of the glass that faces the front of the car. This is where you will see the replaceable front quarter seal. When the screws are out just pull the mouldings apart...takes a bit of persuasion. THen pull the window to moulding seal (the big one piece seal) out of the moulding and pull the glass out of the seal. Then clean up the glass edges and the mouldings, including the inside channel of the moulding so the new seal goes in nicely. ( I see you are going to powdercoat...dont powdercoat the inner channel though or you will have trouble getting the new seal in. Reinsall the glass into the new one piece seal. Put the mouldings back around the glass and seal and tigthen the screws...this will be a tight fit..i used soapy water to help it slide in. You might want to use a large vise to hold the moulding in place while you work it in. The new front quarter seal goes in with the small screws as well. Now you put the frame to body seal around the moulding affixing it with super adhesive and let it set. I held it in place with masking tape while it dried and set. When they are dry and set you can put the windows back in the car. Keep in mind the new seals will make it a tight fit going back into the body of the car...again I used soapy water to get them to slip in. Makes it much easier to have an assistant put the screws in while you are pushing and squeezing the windows back in to the proper place...Good luck!!

Zee77 - Black Dragon is a great company and I have ordered from them many times and have not been disappointed in quality. cygnusx1 - thanks for the reply.very encouraging...Im going to give the OBX a try. goint with cams/headwork and manifolds for next year...and more boost .. Ill have a review next spring I guess...snow is about to fly......thats it for this year:cry2:

Here is what I think...if the guy is balking already I would walk...no...run away from this. You are setting yourself up for a massive headache. Tell him your price..if he doesnt like it tell him to go somewhere else. That is a lot of work you describe and its mostly custom work. Just my 2c

Any further reports on the OBX? Still operating well? Thinking I might go this route.

Have one...PM sent.

I have to agree with Stony on this...the dyno cost is a small price to pay considering the scope of this build; the power you are speaking of and the potential for disaster if not done correctly. The old saying comes to mind...you gotta pay to play. Love the project...been following it closely....wont be long now.

PM replied. Talk to you soon, Andrew

Hey Quentin...nice run!! I was also at our local track this weekend. Also had quite a bit of wheel hop for some reason...didnt do it last time at the track. The track was brutal...it was too cool and they didnt prep it at all. Here are my times: 1)60foot: 2.24 12.11 @ 123.3mph 2)60 foot:2.22 12.23@ 124.2mph 3)60 foot:2.3 12.5@ 123.1mph This was on drag radials,..tried launching at all different rpm but the car just spun through the first two gears. Also...I too am thinking of building/purchasing another bottom end. One of the options I have considered is going with a RIPS 3.0 litre bottom end. From the email reply I received from Rob it looks like a stock (not forged) 3.0 litre bottom end would run around $4500.00 NZ dollars (including shipping!)...which is about $3600cdn or so. The price quoted is for his 20th anniversary in business and upcoming 40th birthday celebration!. Thinking about it pretty hard...this guy knows his stuff and the torque would be awesome. Keep in mind that this is for the bare bones block (no oilpan/oil pump etc) with crank/rods/pistons suitable for an RB26dett head.

Consider going with a drag radial. I switched to the Nitto 555R drag radials and they hook very well.

Not normally a big fan of the ZX but WOW!!! The white car is awesome!!!

I have my door panels mounted with 3M velcro tape...works great. Just be careful and take your time when taking them on and off...no problems.

I run two small puller fans in a similar configuration to yours. They are not ideal as they only cover a portion of the radiator.. A shroud would likely help quite a bit. I also run a large single pusher fan between the intercooler and radiator. A simple on/off switch is used to control the fan manually. This helps a lot in stop and go traffic. As mentioned "water wetter " is a good idea as well...i did notice a difference. I usually run in the area of 180 to 195 as well. Not sure what you are running for coolant but with water wetter you can run pretty much straight distilled water...this will help with your temps as well. And lastly of course..you need to get the heat out of the engine bay...

Big congrats Austin!!! Enjoy every day!

LOL...I have begun a "Wall of Carnage"...not sure if it should be rated PG13..some images are disturbing.

Looks like you have quite a bit of crap in the tank. Its a pain but you really should take care of the crud in the tank or you will be back in the same situation very quickly. Might also have a look at the filter screens in the injectors...fuel filters are good but some small crud will get past...been there...done that. Good luck!!

Canadian Z: The diff is a 3.7 lsd. Tires are Nitto Drag radials at 16psi. Mike Rowe: The Wolf Creek Racing axles I refer to are here: http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/wcrcvhalfshaftaxlekit.pdf You have to specify that they are for the R200 when ordering. Speaking with a couple of people who have run these they seem to be very tough but also mention that they are a bit "loose" describing the play in the shafts?" Not sure how this occurs but I was hoping one of the benefits of these CV's would be to tighten things up. I might go with the 300zx shafts I have for now...not sure yet.

One thing you can check is your fuel filter. I have had problems in the past with the stock tank which had crud in it. As fuel was flowing the filter would begin to collect crap in it until it became badly clogged then fuel pressure would die off...If you turned the car off the crud would make its way back from the filter (would be more likely with a screen type filter) to the tank and upon startup again the process would repeat itself with the filter gradually clogging up. Change the filter and make sure the tank is free of debris..just a thought.

Not sure of the history of these shafts but my guess is they are well used! There are guys putting down a lot more torque than I do without doing this kind of damage. Ive seen quite a few posts about broken half shafts and most are the result of extreme shock such as drag racing with sticky tires or road racing. I would think you will be alright on the street as long as you dont dump the clutch too hard at higher revs. I will not do any more quarter mile stuff until I get the CV conversion done...I think I am lucky to have not done any damage to the underside of the car/lines etc. when it let go...