DREW RBZ

Its been quite a while since I lasted posted any progress on the car. I got married in February to my beautiful wife Isabelle. We went to Panama for our honeymoon then came back and finished building our new house which we moved into mid April.. So...its been a little busy I have done a fair bit of work to the car and it is now in paint and we are in the process of wiring the chassis and engine harness. First off I will post a few more pictures of the front brake setup as I had a few questions about it. The fronts are "big red" Porsche calipers. The mounting brackets are aluminum and were CNC machined by Rick Wong. The 13 inch rotors and aluminum hats are full floating from Coleman Racing Products. http://www.colemanracing.com The outside diameter was turned down a fraction to fit the Porsche Caliper. The front hubs are custom CNC machined out of Aluminum by Rick Wong. Driver seat is a Corbeau FX1 Pro mounted on universal slider. [/url 12 circuit PAINLESS ( not entirely painless!) chassis wiring harness arrived and is partly installed in the car. The engine harness was ordered from Yury at Wiring Specialties. This harness is very nice and well put together. It really makes things neat and tidy and I will not have to deal with old crappy wiring like I did on my last build using the original RB26 harness. http://www.wiringspecialties.com/

Nismo twin plate here.

Cool project. Looking like some nice parts being accumulated as well. What are you going to use for turbos? And what cams are those? I see you are looking to stay with twins...for the power level you are looking for consider the 2860r-5's. The stockers wont get you where you want to go with race fuel.

Great story...waiting for the next chapter

Horrible news. I am so sorry to hear this. My prayers are with you and your family.

Hi Mike. Check your PM. Thanks! Andrew

Very nice!

They look very nice. You are a man of his word. Cant wait to get a set.

I love em!!

Sounds easy. Cant wait to see the result :-/

Outstanding build! Attention to detail is amazing. Keep up the good work!

I run the Apexi power FC d-jetro (l-jetro needed if using MAFS). Works great but make sure your tuner is familiar with the system if you are not doing tuning yourself.

Nice! Any idea what the car weighs?

I am not suggesting that this will be a hack job. I was simply pointing out some differences in the early and late versions of the OEM covers. I appreciate very much what you are doing. Andrew

There is a thumbnail of the covers at the bottom of Mdantonio first post. It looks like the bolt holes are in the location of the "early" covers which appear to have been the ones that had some fitment and quality problems. I have attached a link that shows the "early" and "late" buckets and the placement of the bolt holes. http://jdm-car-parts.com/datsunnissan-original-detail/genuine-head-light-covers-for-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z-come-in-2-types/http://jdm-car-parts.com/datsunnissan-original-detail/genuine-head-light-covers-for-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z-come-in-2-types/

Firstly, thanks for taking the initiative on this project! As for the question about cost being within "reason" I dont think it would be fair for me to suggest a figure as I am not familiar with the costs of production. What I do know is that there is likely a good market in the Z world for those wanting quality covers without the $800-$1200 pricetag. I do not want to put a set of the reproduction covers (MSA, Black Dragon Auto) on my new build as they are of mediocre quality and cheapen the overall look of the car in my opinion. I would be willing to pay more for a quality product that is going to last and look like it belongs on the car. Following this thread with great hope!

I would be interested if of good quality , the fitment is proven and priced within reason.

Wow! Very clean engine bay. Love it!

Ive shipped pallets with motors, transmissions etc. Go to uship.com and follow the instructions (what you are shipping, weight, dimensions, pickup and delivery locations, etc) You will then get bids from various shippers who should be able to help you out. Good luck!

Thanks very much for the constictive critisism on the cage and fuel cell fellas. I am going to be leaving it alone at this time. I realize that there are problems with the design and will use it as a learning experience. With the chassis strengthening done to the underside of the car the cage will suffice for my current plans for the car which is street and local shows. I will most likely get another chassis for a track car when the time comes. This current car has a lot of extra weight in dynamat etc to be a true track car. Going to paint next week!!

Thanks for the reply. The fuel cell mounting tab concern had already been brought up by another member and will be at addressed with the addition of straps. In terms of the cage I am understanding that the bend the cage takes at the base where it mounts to the floor is the main concern and should be straightened and put closer to the rocker?

That is what we did on one side. That would be your best option as you have limited access to the tunnel. Really stiffens things up.

I dont have any more pictures other than those on the first page of the thread. I dont mind crawling under the car to take a few snaps (closeups?) but I dont know how much more you will see. What we did do is weld in a thick steel backing plate for the mount to attach to to make it nice and solid.

I think that there is some confusion regarding the I have added a photo of the attachment points for the harnesses. This will hopefully add some clarity to the main hoop discussion. The harnesses are affixed to two points...one is to a 1/4 inch steel attachment pointl off the strut tower and the second is off the strut bar itself. The strut bar is CNC machined from a billet piece of titanium approximately 1 inch thick and 2 inches wide. The mounting points are at shoulder height and about 11 inches behind the seat. Hope this helps to clarify things. If there are still any concerns about safety I would be very interested in hearing what I can do to fix the issue

Hey guys. Thanks for the kudos and suggestions. I would be very interested in more comments on the cage especially the main hoop. I have a window of opportunity now to get things sorted out. I am very unfamiliar with the design/safety of this part of the build and left it up to my fabricator. Please keep in mind though that this is designed as Sunday driver car/show queen and will not see the track except for maybe a lapping day. All comments suggestions welcome! Im here to learn from the experienced guys on the forum.