Clifton

Couldn't stand not having traction, even at 70 mph rolls so I thought I would try these. They are huge for a 275. About an inch wider than my Ecsta V700's and 1.5" wider than my old 555r's. I haven't tried first but second gear hooked up fine at 29-30 psi.

Phil, you could bump up your 90 and 100 kpa about 10*, especially 100 kpa, it's really low, even for a real high cr engine. 80 kpa and below 5-6* after 3k. I would run a little more at low boost too. You'll pick up a bit more power before peak boost and should spool a bit quicker. Your idle timing is crazy high too. Is it hard to crank? I'm sure it idles better there but if you need to get through emmisions I don't think you'll pass at idle. Didn't know if you wanted opinions, but thought I would offer.

I've always liked the Prima Z's. Back when they were done the style was similar to 935's and other early GTP cars. That pic of the Honda is a joke, especially the angled plate. It looks as though is should be on the cartoon the Jetsons. I'm sure the wings on the P Z's were more for looks, similar to Countach's, but the body style is far from ricey. The black one looks like it has Pantera tail lights. Anyone know what they were from? I also saw the flared Z32 at MSA last year. Took a few pics of it. It looks really nice.

I have hours of in car of my 71 roadracing, but nothing on the 73.

The sprung hub just reduces the shock to the trans on shifts. Doesn't help with slipping or engagement.

A shorter cat doesn't flow more or less. To get higher flow, you need to go larger in diameter (more cells). Longer cats will do a better job at reducing emmisions as the exhaust is exposed to the catalysts a little longer but a short one should be fine on a smaller engine like an L6, compared to a 5.7l.

If you don't plan to go a whole lot higher on the boost and don't mind puck disks. A 6 puck with stock PP will take alot for torque than a stock disk. Good 100 ft/lbs more.

You need a center diff to keep the drivetrain from binding on pavement. Thos T cases don't have one.

As most of the threads on here. Keeps the board going.

The RA1 woul;d be better by a long shot. The Falken RT-615 would be a better choice than that particular Hankook if performance is your goal. Although the RA1 has a low treadwear rating (100). They last surprisingly long for how soft they are. I wouldn't trek across the U.S. but I don't hesitate driving anywhere with mine (Az to Ca once a year).

Don't let the low prices of China-Taiwan parts fool you. There intercoolers are just as good as Greedy and HKS, just cheaper as labor is cheaper. I'm running one and have been running an Ebay 35mm wastegate for a few years. works perfect. I would stay away from the turbos though. If you are thinking about baffling your fuel tank I can post some picks of mine. You need a donor efi tank and a welder. You can run an in-tank pump and the efi baffle and never have fuel issues. It's a little more work than a surge tank with an extra pump but it is the best way to do it. I can auto X with 1/4 tank and it's fine.

Don't deny me of my Amish heritage. LOL. Ya, Jim drew up the plans. I'm sure he saved me ALOT of money there and I do appreciate it greatly. I also got out of having to have a dust free gravel drive or pour concrete in front of it as it isn't going to be used for cars . I will eventually do it, but it adds up quick. I did put an elbow and ufer in the footing and just ran the outlet wiring today. It will be hidden under the bond beam until I get the final, then I'll cut out for outlets. I didn't want there electric codes interfering with my progress. They are already killing me with there setbacks.

Ha, ha. No, the irs is just doing what big brother tells them too.

I don't know if you are on a budget or not. I have a walbro 255hp in both Z's. They are good for an easy 500rwhp. Mine aren't noisy. Stock regualtors are fine too with Walbros, unless you want an after market one. $400 sounds like alot ot refurb a fuel tank. You can get 24x12x4" intercoolers on ebay for under $200. Don't really need a fp gauge, if you have an afpr use a cheapo pressure gauge to set it and you're done. I would go MSII and use edis. You could skip the crane box and save $200 and have waste spark. I would look at act clutches. They seem to hold more torque. I know for supra there PP's don't have more clamp but the act one do. Alot of MKIII people have issues with spec. Maybe there Nissan stuff is a little better. They have a higher torque rating listed here. http://www.clutchcityonline.com/act1.htm

If I don't owe the extorsionist, uh, I mean gov't, every year I'm lucky.

Here's a close up of the spider. If I do all the labor from here on out, I should be around $15ft, hopefully. Coyotegary on here gave me 12 4' lights so that saved me some $$ too.

If a turbo and ms is really in your future, I would wait. It would save you the money on the msa header and instead of zxt injectors you could get something a little larger (550cc+) that would accomidate more power if you ever decided you wanted it in the future. Larger injectors aren't an issue with ms as you program it.

Actually it would run richer. If at say 3k at wot, if the afm gave a voltage reading of say 2.5v to the ecu. The ecu would give pre determind pulse width to the injector based on the afm. The zxt inj is almost another 100cc/min worth of fuel. The ecu wouldn't know that. Stiffening the afm isn't a good idea either. They are fully open around or just after peak torque. You might be better off with an afpr. You could add a few psi of fuel if it really needed it. You might also be to use an safr or safc to modify the afm signal. I know used safr's can be had pretty cheap. You would need a wideband though with any of the above.

If you are na and going to run zxt injectors, you'll be really rich. Unless you are running standalone or have some other way to pull some fuel out. If not I would stick with na injectors.

I worked on grouting the verts and bond beam yesterday, picked up some scaffolding too. I'll probably finish grouting today. Ya, I'll let you know when I get there. The spider is just rebar with a big rock for the body and little one for the head. I'll get a better pic, it was real easy to make.

Didn't take up too much, just the side yard, it's a fairly big lot (for this area). We bought the house with the intentions of me putting a garage there, plus she gets to have a clean front garage and my parts cars moved out of the other side when this is done. I'll post updates as I get more done. I think it's going to go a bit slower now that I'm about to the scaffolding stage.

Been busy with this for the last few months. It's 32d x 36w. I've been working on the block for about 3 weeks now. I'll hopefully be close to done before summer hits or a little after. Then I can start the VH swap:biggrin:.

Factory 280Z's have pretty good a/c from what I've heard from people here in Az. I have aftermarket 240 air though, not the greatest.

I used the Supra mount and removable crossmember. I had to notch it a bit to clear a 3" tube. I think Andy mad a new mount. Put it as far back as you can. The shifter comes up short of the hole in the tunnel.

I know what it is like spending 4 months in a garage doing body work when you aren't a body guy. It's hell. You did a great job. Your car looks really nice. I like shaved emblems and side markers too.