Clifton

If someone can't give you there file. Don't let it steer you away. The setup in MS gets you a pretty decent ready to drive map. I was suprised that I could start driving and tunning with what I puched in for fuel. You will need a wideband if you want to get it perfect under all conditions.

Don't need to flare. I run a 9" wheel. Offset depends on what rear brakes you are running. There isn't much room for error. Yes you need an 8" coil over. Yoko makes about 10 different Advans, unless it starts with A0 it's not an R compound. The only Nitto's that have a chance hooking up are 555R/RII and NT01. There are alot of tires out there, some expensive but it all comes down to how soft they are. Unless someone else has run a light car with over 500 ft /lbs to the wheels I wouldn't take there advice on tires. They wil have no idea the lack of traction you are dealing as just about any tire will work for them and they will assume the same street oriantated tire that works fine for them will work for you too.. Another tire to look at is the Toyo RA1. R compund and has good tread depth.

Not trying to be mean but if the motor mounts are your concerence, you have no idea how much work there is on a motor swap with an engine never designed for that car, especially one that wide. They will need to be custom as will the trans mount, driveshaft and maybe some cutting ?? to get it in there where you want it. There's alot of VH info here. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193

I do way over 500 every year going from Az to Ca for msa. Even do the autox when I'm there. I have never worried about motor reliabililty. Just hoses and belts if they are old.

That would be a nice upgrade with the stg3 turbine, nice v band too. Just depend on your desired boost/power goals. It would be a good street turbo 15-20 psi.

It's not the hp, it's the torque. I'm running a 275mm R compound in the rear (Kumho V700) and still have issues in second just rolling on boost. Going to an R compound is the best thing you can do to hook up. Either a drag radial or autocross tire. The V700 is a little softer than a Nitto DR and is wider for a comparatively sized tire, never ran a bfg dr. I think you are going to have to go wider too though.

1. He doesn't state whatthe hotsdie a/r is, could be another .42 or .48. 2. The turbine wheel is pretty oily, deffinetly needs a turbine seal, may as well rebuild it. If you don't know how to rebuild one (easy), I wouldn't get one off Ebay. Worst case is a compressor blade is bent, motor spit out a piston chunk and f 'd up the turbine wheel or ran dirty oil and scored the bearing surface on the turbine shaft (can be machined but more $$). I've bought 4 on ebay and they all needed a rebuild. I bid knowing what it cost me to r&r one.

Do some research before even thinking about spending money on a turbo. Journal bearing turbos have some shaft play. They are easy to rebuild though. That one has the same compressor as stock (60 trim) and a smaller hot side a/r. It would be a down grade.

Thanks.

Great post. Fastzcars... Why the switch from a Maita to Subi rack? I will be adding p/s when I do the vh swap soon and the though of power assisted 2.5 turns lock to lock would be nice. Anyone know the lock to lock on the Forrester rack?

This is a joke right? If not auto paint is expensive. Trying to save a little money using house paint as a base will come back and haunt you . Auto primer will fill small scratches and imperfection within reason. Do it right, you'll be much happpier after it's all done. After the months I spent doing body work, there was no way I would take a risky short cut.

I used a pipe cutter one strut and a chop saw on the rest. If you clamp a few peices of angle iron to them to hold them they will be straight regardless of how straight your cuts are. That's what I did and all 4 were perfect.

It runs along with the other fuel lines under the tunnel, to the firewall and then splits to the drivers side, running down the frame rail and up to were the coil is. It is about as large as the feed line were that return line is like a brake line. To see if this is your problem with your excess fuel pressure you could temporarily run the return straight off the regulator into a bucket/can.

I'm not in DZA any more. Great club, I'm just into performance more than shows. Are you running a 255l Walbro with the stock 240 return line? If so you might want to use the larger emissions vent line. There's too much returned volume with that pump. Does your fuel pressure drop if you rev it?

To bad your way up there, it would be fun messing with as ls Z . I would of bought a wideband first. I wouldn't run more than 45 psi fp with vac disconnected (stock is around 36-40). The stock fpr is referenced and would of worked fine. Running more fp will allow more boost but without knowing your afr, raising the fp won't be helping if you are too rich. It sure isn't helping off boost. Don't know how much the ecu can correct for it. Up the boost some more depending on what your fp is 13 or so psi. It should be pretty cool up there now so knock shouldn't be an issue.

This RB26 fit. Your vg30 with a little more boost will make about as much power as the other 2 at there stock levels. I would only consider the vg30dett or rb26 if you want alot more power and are willing to spend the money ( larger turbo/turbos, fuel, ecu, ect) to make it happen.

Check the 2 hatch plugs and make sure the interior hatch panel is sealed good. Air can enter through the latch area.

Check this place out too http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193. I got a running wrecked Q45 for $600 too. The VH is wide and and may require some frame rail work, Don't quote me on that as I haven't got that far yet.

You're right. I just looked through the fsm.

N/A and turbo have the same FPR. Book says 33-40 psi without vacuum. Mine was 38/40 psi without. You know n/a injectors are high imp. right?

Buying a motor then trans, clutch, and wiring seperatly will be expensive and IMO not worth it for a 7M, You also will need a custom driveshaft. I did the swap because I bought a wrecked car for $500 that was complete. Look at local insurance auctions, http://iaai.com/ is a big one.

Just talked to him. Pin height is 1.300". With an L24 rod/L28 , same deck height as a stock L28 flat top.

To run the R154 you need the 1jz bellhousing. I wouldn't use the W58 if high boost is in your future.

I may have worded that wrong, I wan't trying to say he was favoring one over the other. Just the info he has posted could lead one to choose a turbo that might not be the right one. I was trying to say it might be possible for such a low boost threshold with a 60-1, but the hotside would have to be on the small side (stock) and that would be a poor match for the compressor and limit the HP potential by alot.

He did alot of work but based on my known hp at 16 and 22 psi it's a little low on his lb/min numbers. He also has the boost curve on the compressor maps. It's not that easy without knowning the hotside specs. He has the 60-1 making 20 psi before 3000 rpms. Maybe with a 5th gear pull from from 2k with the stock hotside, but who would run that set up, it would be a poor match. I wouldn't base my turbo choice off of it.