Clifton

I didn't need to trim the collar until I went to the V700's. With Nitto Dr's (275's) it was close but cleared. You shouldn't have a problem on a 280. The only place you will probably have to trim is the sleeve. A 17" wheel is real close, an 18" wheel wouldn't require a trim with the same offset, trimming it is easy though. A 16" wheel would need a different offset moving it out some and into the outer fender. The pic of my finger on the tire is where the tire rubbed the sleeve, shouldn't on a 280. Also you can see were the tire rubs a little on the inner fender. This is only when I crank in the camber for autox. It's really tight in there.

Is power getting to the motor? I know Z31's motors have a bonded rubber between the drive and driven part. They unbond over time. If it's the motors they probably aren't cheap. You can weld a flat washer to them and bypass the rubber part. That's what I did.

You got mail.

Without a vacuum port it won't lower pressure at idle like the stock on. I would get a $30 one on ebay if you are just going for looks and no longer like the stocker and aren't worried about moving alot of fuel through it.

Mines seen 25 psi, checking it. I'm sure it will go higher but I haven't checked it higher. There shouldn't be a limit on the boost you can run and have it compensate for, just the volume it will flow.

I happen to have a wheel off right now ( for a few days). I can take a pic and show you how close it is on the collar and perch with an 8" spring. You would have a little more room with a weld in camber plate than I do. The camber plates I'm running on my rear are about stock height. I think most weld ins would give you another 1.5" clearance, still not enough with a 10" spring spring rate was silly soft. I wouldn't worry too much about an 8" spring. You won't have coil bind issues, unless it's a rally car .

Easily, with some practice. I let it bog and then had to wait for the boost. I did a better 60' 3 years ago with street 225's. I'm just not used to launching a car with sticky tires. Tony, I'll be at MSA again.

On the fronts you'll have no problems with a 10" spring and a 245. It's just the rear. My front hubs also stick out (I think it was 10 or 12mm) more than stock Z hubs, it was have as much of the difference as a Z31 hub. You would have to run less offset in the front than 25mm. I could get away with a 15mm easy, so a 5mm or zero would work for S30 hubs. On the rear, I have a hat that is .100 thicker than the stock drum and a spacer that is .315" = 10.4mm - 35mm offset You would need a 24.5mm wheel to get the same wheel placement with drums and no spacer. If you had a little more, I know 27mm is common, you could add a small spacer. If you run a 16" wheel you would need to move it out board a little further a few mm to clear the strut tube.

Ya, I had the MT's on, they are amazing. It did feel wiggly once I got it in third and forth though. I let my friend drive it and he said the same thing. It must of been the track as it is pretty good on the street. Ya, that $500 was REALLY nice. BTW, I saw your post on SF. You need to post a vid of that run.

Ya, kinda looks like it. I knew my time didn't start till I crossed the beam. I forgot how that tree thing worked and I wanted to get my revs up, all of the sudden it was going and I wasn't quite ready.

This was my first of 2 runs. My launch was really bad as was a shift but the speed was pretty good considering. I Also took home $500 for fastest street import. http://media.putfile.com/135wmv

You need to adjust toe when moving the lca pivot point. You also have alot more camber available with camber plates than eccentric LCA bushings and it takes alot less time to do it..

Pretty good incar. http://video.google.ca/videoplay?docid=-9185054031380523546&hl=en-CA

Thanks for all the replies. I'm gonna order some more aluminum line and fittings.

I'm going to run dual intank pumps and need to upgrade to 3/8 feed and return. I have used aluminum lines before and they sure are easy to bend. I know they are rated for 250 psi but don't know if it is a good idea to run them at 70 psi or if they are mainly for low pressure, carbed setups. Anyone have any thoughts on it?

I've this place a few times. http://www.witchhunter.com/index.php4 Half the price of RC. I have also put used injectors is that were stuck. In my case, the car would barely but the fuel pressure and pulse width were enough to clear out the gummed up crud.

You can only run so much camber on the street and not kill your tires. You could run more than you are but IMO it's not really worth it to run alot on the street. If you are going to autoX often and want the best of both, I would run camber plates. It takes about 2 minutes for me to go from street camber to track camber. I have a bit of body roll so my camber may be more than what some others run but it works for me and the temps are good. 3* front, 1* rear, could run more rear but it's pretty neutral.

I've thought about this alot. I know I am maxed out for tire and wheel in the stock wheel well without a flare (9's/275's) so I know you need about 2.5" more clearance in there. I don't know how much you can shorten the half shafts. It would need to be atleast 2.5" to fit a 335. The next part may sound hack but it would work and it is just a thought that's been rolling around my head. I think it would be easier to get a spare strut, cut the one on the car off about 5" or so above the mount and mount the other one to the backside of the cut one. Bracing it would be easy. This way stock length lca's and halfshafts/cv's would still work. You would still need to move the inner fender and unibody frame rail in 2.5" inches along with the strut mount. I will either try this or flare it when the time comes, i don't really want a flare though.

I haven't hit any big dips with these tires yet, but with the other 275's one side would rub very lightly if it was a real bad dip. I run 1/4*-0 camber on the street too. More camber would reduce any rubbing to zero on that side. My spring and collar aren't all they way above the tire, just high enough so it doesn't rub. There's no way a 10" spring would work unless you had the car jacked up real high in the rear. I don't think a 275 would fit on an 8" wheel to good. Fronts are 17x8 25mm with a 235/45 tire. I did run a 245 at one time but Toyo doesn't make RA1's in a 245. This is really old http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/Tires.html.'>http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/Tires.html. If you look were I notched the sleeve, I had to do the same to the spring collar when I went with the V700's http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/Tires.html

I had to raise the rear 2 turns on the sleeves to keep it from rubbing on the spring colars. Ya, still plan on the V8, I have all the parts. I just have to finish building the garage.

If you detonate, chances are a ring land is going to be cracked first. A HG isn't a fuse. Assuming it is is false insurance.

Offset is 35mm, I have 10mm worth of spacer and rotor hat. So if it was on a stock Z drum a 25mm would be the same. Ya, 2.5" x 8" CO's. It fits but it is tight. Had to trim a little on the coil over sleeve and colar. They don't stick out so much with a little camber. I am at 1/4* neg in the pics.

I wanted a stiffer side wall. I don't drag race and launching (60ft) isn't the problem, it is just traction in general. The street et's would limit my cornering fun by alot. I would have tried the BFG's but the new style didn't come in my size. I know MT has a newer design of these too, but again, not in my size.

Not to say it doesn't twist, but I haven't had any problems with over 550 rwtq

Can't really roll the fenders in the rear. I trimmed them with a grinder though. these are on 9'. I was killing Vipers with 400 rwhp. The 533 was really rich with a stock afm. It's probably in the 600 rwhp range now. Bigger turbo (T72), stand alone, no AFM and more boost. I was busy all weekend and didn't get to drive it. I have auto crossed with Nitto DR's. I think DR's are better for the turns than any street tire. I'll find out how these are though.