Clifton

Is this going in a street car or race?

With the porting and then RPM's required to even come close to that number will make it miserable at low rpms. Being this is a N/A motor you still won't have half the torque of a 400HP turbo motor. Tranny breakage shouldn't be a problem unless it's a drag car.

I use the n/a trans. I had a an earlier 5 speed until I broke 5th gear into 3 peices. I run a later 280zx one now, same strenght just needed a taller 2nd gear.

I wouldn't have such low expectations with the HP unless you are talking rear wheel. TO4E's don't flow any more than T4B's. To do again I would start with a 60-1 and either full T4 or stage 3 or 5 on a T3 turbine. If you buy one of those cheap ebay turbos make sure it isn't an S trim T4B.

I don't think an SAFC will work as your EFI is design for N/A and while it may notice some increased airflow it won't be able to account for it all. This is assuming it uses a hot wire sensor, if it's map then it's 1 bar and it won't pick up 1 psi. If you don't plan on much boost you could get by with out the MSD dis as they are pricey. Just retard a few degrees off the base at first to see if you can get by like that.

I think you are measuring were the ring seats. The ring lands are the metal between them, the ring land supports thr ring. On turbo pistons it's the land just under the top compression ring that is thicker.

Or if they are still in the block the turbo ones have P90 stamped on them.

I second what he said. Exhaust trim would be a Ptrim. If you can get it cheap enough you could swap a .58 onto it. They are about $175

I use this on my truck and did use it on my Z before the full SDS. SDS makes an affordable one. I picked up an HKS AIC on Ebay for cheap.

I'd avoid Top End. Me and many others have had bad experiences with those *&^%$#, but not to say you will. I wouldn't get to caught up in the lag thing. Even full t4's spool quick enough for a street driven car if you don't go to big. This place has some pretty good pricing http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gartur.html.

The fronts are easy. The rears aren't, it's too thick. I cut mine with a 4" grinder. I see this term used often' date=' but haven't the slightest idea what it means.... please explain... My 17's sometimes scrape on large bumps, but not by much, and this may solve my problem if I knew what/how to "roll" the rear fenders. thank you joel[/quote']

Turbo/s would be on the passenger side.

You used to make a spacer to use the 5 lug hub and the spacer was for the rotor, I guess it would be a rotor spacer. Or was this some weird memory I have that didn't exist:(.

I thought JSK made the rotor spacer to use the 5 lug Z31 hubs on S30's. Didn't see it on his site. What's up Juan?

Earlier MKIII's Turbos' have 3.9's later had 3.7's. I know some N/A's have 4.38's not sure about all of them. Clifton

I have run a Paxton pump and my current 255l Walbro pump with a stock L28ET FPR on the 71'. With both pumps the pressure was a little higher at idle by a few pounds from the volume, even with a larger return. It hasn't caused any problems though as it drops to normal as the revs pick up a little. On the 73' I run a 255l Walbro and used one of the emissions lines for a return line. The pressure is 36 psi at idle, right were it should be. I wouldn't even bother with a guage or after market FPR until you get a real return line on there.

A thought you ment crank HP when I said larger turbo, but these are RWHP http://7mpower.com/top10.shtml. All but 1 has a stock head, a few stock blocks.

450-500 on a 7M is easily done with a larger turbo on a stock motor. don't know about the 3.8.

I always check the pumps on the car. Leave the hood cranked and run an el cheapo guage under your wiper. It will only take one time flooring it to redline to know if it's good. I had a stock Supra turbo pump drop from 50 psi at 10 psi boost to 25psi at redline. My A/F's were 13.8 at redline . and low 10's at lower rpms.

I should also mention. Can't remember why I only went back 2" but I know I wouldn't go back more. Getting to the bellhousing bolts is know a pain. I did move it back as I have straight line traction problems. I don't know how much it helped but i know it didn't hurt.

Intank with a factory style sump is the beat my far. I used a Toyota supra sump and intank pump set up in my 73' tank. 255lph pumps are cheaper also, $85. There's a few pics of it on my link. Easy to do. Just rinse it out with water then dry it good, I used a shop vac, the pressure tested it with the same shop vac and soapy water.

I moved mine back exactly 2". The stock hood latch stuff will probably be in the way, I have pins so I don't know. You also can't lower it any more as the oil pump will now sit over the front cross member. I made a new rear trans mount and made 2 motor mount spacers out of 1/4" plate to move the front back, also had to have the D shaft shortend.

Blow one turbo into the other and you can.

They are no different than other L head springs. It "may" take it even though .460" is supposed to be the max, but it's the valve float that will cost you power. Springs are only $100 and worth it.