Clifton

This might help. http://toy4two.home.mindspring.com/offset.html

A stock VG30ET in a heavy 280 would be about the same as an L28ET in a 280ZX not too fast stock. I would use a 240Z or VG30DETT in the 280. 400lbs is alot of extra weight for basically the same car.

Off boost I adjust it till I get a little spark knock from to much timing. Not detonation as it will still happen at cruise. Then I back it off a few degrees. On my Toyota truck I can't even run it at spec in the summer as it will knock. So basically as much timing till it knocks.

[quote name="260turbo Also my t04b is an a/r .60 47mm s trim compresser with a p trim exhaust wheel. I am aware of the lag on that 1.00 but i have heard that when it boosts it with boost higher and stronger(true or false). Well since i have some things wrong' date=' what all would y'all say i should change?Thx austin austinc7@juno.com You aren't going to kill any Vipers with an S trim T4, way to small for serious power. Yes the 1.00 a/r would be ok and make more top end, if you could make power till 8500 rpm. You will hate driving the car with that large of an a/r. I would sell the turbo and get something better suited to your needs. Even the "T70" on Ebay would be 100% better than what you are going to use. They are Ptrim 60.5 mm compressor and T3 flange too. I have the MSD boost retard (not the 6A model) on my turboed Toyota truck, along with 2 450cc additional injectors for extra fuel. 17 psi on 91 octane, couldn't do it with out the MSD pulling some timing.

I used header wrap on my trucks turbo and a stainless heat shield, can't see if this one glows. It's so tight in there it was starting to warp my plastic valve cover with out the wrap/sheild. I had a D21 Nissan pickup with the Z24 and a turbo. It would glow just from driving, without even boosting. I didn't have a heat shield or wrap on that one though.

Retarding= more top end. Advancing, as you did= favors bottom end.

Really isn't different. There isn't anything special about them, just to people that have them . Probably 50% of the cars now have DOHC 4 valve heads, not like the 80's. I have never had a rocker arm failure, I do run Schnieder springs though. I've swapped rockers, cams and valves from other heads, never had a problem. Motor sees 6500-7000, somtimes more on every shift.

There are alot of people just under 500 rwhp with Garret turbos running less than 20 psi. I don't know anything about Mitsubishi turbos but that's on the low side for that kind of PSI. I just finished welding a T4 flange to mine to run a T58. I have the CT26/60-1, wasn't much better than stock, I think the small turbine kills it. The turbos use a Karman Vortex AFM, looks similar to a hot wire type but measure frequency.

Is that with them installing valves and setting clearance? I always bring mine in clean and disassembled to save some money and put it back together myself. Tell them it's for a turbo car so they know you just want the min. cut off and ask them what they took off after. I wouldn't worry, it's not a 4 valve Ferrari head .

If it is in fact a TO4E 57. They flow 49 lbs, should be enough for around 450-475 at the crank depending on psi. It's only a stage III, same a/r as stock, spool shouldn't be much slower. I would run the stage V if they had it. For me as long as I have 15 psi by 3.5K I'm happy. I don't mind a little lag, it's part of having a turbo capable of making more power. Topless. You need the wastegate flapper and the 3 bolt flange.

I did the same. Except I keep the fuel lines lower that the top and used the baffle/sump from the Supra tank I got everything else from. I would use a factory sump from an EFI tank if you still have access to the inside. I can run 1 gal. with out pick up problems in a turn .

I would find a shop with a dyno that charges by the hour. I had to do that as I can't drive one of mine on the street. For my other Z I bought an LM1 wide band, easier than running to the dyno to check a/f.

If the specs are as they say I think it's a good deal if you aren't looking for 450+hp. I really doubt they are BB though, not for that price. No one will pull it apart and check so they list it as that just to sell. This is the type of wastegate you need unless you want to go external. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=7909176544&rd=1

That turbo uses the Ford style wastegate flapper. You can usually find them on Ebay for about $20. It would be alot better than rebuilding the stock one.

Yes, check the power at the pump. If it has power remove a fuel line. There should be pressure, enough to spray you so be carefull.

79-85-solid rotor calipers are all the same, 4runner intro in 84'. 86-95 vented rotor. pick up and 4 runner- 4 cyl calipers have staggered piston sizes 1.15" and 1.5". V6(started in 89') pickups and 4runners all use the same calipers, 1.5" and 3 fins on the outside of the caliper. I don't know if the 1.5" calipers started in 89' with the intro of the V6 though or a little later but it's only the V6 models.

Depending on how much boost you plan to run I would either get the T4 E60 Or preferably the 60-1 if you are going to be running over 15 PSI. Compare the flow maps. The E 60 only flows 50 lbs. The 60-1 will still be in the 70% area at 50lbs.

I cleared up the first post. This car has the 7/8" MC. I am using the Toyota solid rotor calipers now with this car and it works fine with the staggered 1.2" and 1.5" pistons. I figured the 1.38" would be about the same.

I am using the 1.75"s in one car but have the 15/16" MC in it. Has anyone tried the smaller 1.38" bore Superlight II calipers with the 7/8 MC. I am going 5 lug on my daily driver and I don't think I want to spend the money on Z31 rotor spacer + the pads ect, when Wilwoods are just a little more. But then I also would have to buy a new MC if I use the Wilwoods, adding even more $$ to a car that will never see track time to use them. So, any reason not to use the 1.38" bore calipers?

http://www.truckn-store.com/product.asp?pg=2&ID=62563&returnURL=%2Fproduct%2Easp%3Fsource%3D%26ID%3D62563%26returnURL%3D%252Fproduct%255Flist%252Easp%253Fid%253D1377 The adapters only come in 2" wide. It still won't allow you to get anything wide in the rear as the offset would have to be custom. If you are planning on going to an 17x8, may as well go for the 17x9 and not wish you did later. I am running coilovers only in the rear so I can get a 9 in there with a 275.

Fuel pumps are rated by gal/hr. The best way is to pull the return line off after the regulator. You need to check fuel pressure still but this way you can measure the volume at 36 psi and above and know how much power your pump can supply fuel for. A stop watch and gas jug is all you need. some stock pumps won't put out moe than 50 psi though.

I you can be happy with what little power the stock one can make I would rebuild it. You can get T3/4's on ebay with T4 E 57trim compressors and stg III turbines pretty cheap. You would need the ford style wastegate housing though, not too much, but it would definately be an upgrade. The stock turbine is too small to make big power. I would upgrade to something like that and sell yours. The Honda guys like them because of the 60 trim wheel. If you rebuild it you will need a pair of snap ring pliers with small tips, might have to grind them down to fit. If the shaft is scored most local shops can send them out if they don't have the equipment. I would buy your rebuild kit localy too. If you do need the shaft turned and need over sized bearings or have any other problems or questions your new turbo shop will be more willing to help out. Also be careful when putting the shaft back in, one quick tap should do it after the piston ring is lined up( about what it takes to tap it out). If you bang on it a couple of times with out re-checking the ring you can bend it. If it isn't too carboned up and isn't scored it can easily be pulled, rebuilt and back on in a day. They are easy to rebuild, you won't need a new wheel or turbine unless yours are chipped. I would not buy a used turbo unless you know how to pull them apart. Every turbo I have bought used has needed something. I would only buy new or rebuilt in your case.

All 4x4 Toyotas 86-95 use vented rotors. The later V6 pickups and runners have the larger pistons instead of the staggered set up of the earlier ones. I prefer the staggered as I know I can keep the 7/8 MC. Has any one tried the big piston calipers with the 7/8"? 1.4" soeunds thick. I know Modern Motorsports sells them but it's hard to part with $150 for a simple spacer. I am going to redrill the drums to 5 lug, cheaper.

The stock wheel is a standerd one. You would need to get a stage III housing too. The use the Ford 5 bolt wastegate pattern.

Having a 90* bend right off the turbo isn't a bad thing. Something about breaking up the turbulant flow, check out any 80's F1 or Indy car.