Clifton

Do you know which one of JohnC's recommended method's would be preferred? I used ER70S-6. There are pics of the 3 I've done, 3VZE Truck, 7MGTE Z and L28 Z scattered in my Yahoo folder.

L28ET is very weldable with MIG. I have some pics on my link of mine with a T4 flange and external wastegate.

Might want to pressure test it before painting. I used a shop vac blowing into it and a windex spray bottle on the welds. I found a few tiny pin holes .

Mine don't have the click like the Tokicos. Clock wise stiffens. They will only go so far either way though. The difference between all the way stiff and soft is enough that you will notice when you go to pull the shaft back out. Clifton

It's already a 60 trim. You will have to go physically bigger on the compressor side to get a larger wheel (T4). Someone on here said you can have the turbine housing machined, I think it was at Turbonetics to fit a larger wheel for $100 or you can use the more common Ford/Saab/Volvo style turbine with wastegate housing / down pipe. How much boost you are running makes a difference. If you are running 7 psi the stock T3 is fine.

On my Koni's I have to compress the strut all the way down in order to adjust, if not it doesn't turn the valve. Kind of a hasle comparred to Illumina's but once it's set it's set.

They aren't drop in but it takes less than 5 minutes to make 6 of them drop in. You can use the Eclipse O ring injectors with a hose. I cut back some of the plastic to expose more of the metal, only took seconds. This way there is enough room for the hose clamp to fit in front of the ridge for the O ring. I run them as additional injectors on 2 different motors and haven't had any issues. 370cc isn't much of an upgrade.

It won't get any better, only worse. OE replacement clutches just don't cut it. Clutch specliaties sells pressure plates seperatly, pretty cheap too.

Yes.

Drag racers run C16. I can't afford to run 114 oct on a daily driver. I'm stuck with 91 oct. I have run 9:1, 8.3, and 7.4:1 on L motors. I have always run on the edge of detonation. While the 9:1 and 8.3:1 motors were fast they don't compare to the 7.4:1 motor. I can run 20 psi on pump. I just stacked the head gaskets on my 7MGTE motor to run more Boost. Stock is 8.5:1. With the long stroke it should have put me in the high 7's, real low 8's. I was at 17 psi until summer hit. I had to drop to 14 to keep it from knocking. I can now run 18 psi with no knock and it pulls harder than at 14psi. don't even notice the drop in compression. On my Toyota truck with the 3VZ V6 I could only run 12 psi with 1/2-3/4* retard(MSD) per PSI this is with 9:1. I stacked the HG's. I now run 17 psi with the same timing. I now need a stronger clutch as the stock one will not hold above 15 psi. I never had a clutch issue before, ever. Less compression and more psi has made more power in every engine I have had. This is not an opinion. The industry is selling to average Joe. He doesn't want a big laggy turbo that makes alot of power up top, he wants smooth power wich can be had with a small turbo and 7-10 psi and 8.5:1 reliably all day long. I want insane 2nd and 3rd gear roll on tire smoking burn outs on pump gas

You can get the R134 adapters at Checker Auto. The picture you posted looks like it ataches to the gauges, you need the one that screws on to your R12 ports. There should only be 3 hoses, a low side, high side and the yellow hose for evacuating/filling. The 3 other fittings on the manifold are just to attach the hoses to when not using them. Here's for the how to use question. http://www.ackits.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=Chart You should check out there forum, alot of answers. http://www.ackits.com/forum/index.cfm

If that would fit an RB25 and in a 240SX you could sell a lot more.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/products.cfm/-/Category=122/category122.htm and MSD both make tach adapters. I couldn't get my 240 tach to work on my 7M swap(factory coil packs). I used the Supra guts as I already had it, in the 240 tach body. If you find an easier way please post it.

I know you can get new 550's for $300 for 6 on ebay. They are the o-ring style but you can still use them with a hose if you remove a little of the plastic. Also MKIV injector are galley feed.

Then they aren't turbo injectors. The n/a's used high imp.

I've welded (mig) on Toyota and Nissan manifolds but never domestic stuff. I tried weldeing a GEO manifold but it wouldn't have anything to do with it. I would try laying a bead on the back before cutting it up. On the last Toyota one I did I had one weld crack at the manifold when cooling. I preheated it before I went any further. I didn't have any problems. I just let it cool naturally. 105* air temp helps to I think. Clifton

I also run a Clutch Specialties set up. 225mm, 6 puck. Way cheaper than ACT and CF, never had any slippage issues.

Or if you have a press you can stick one in it on a bathroom scale and compress it down an inch and see what the scale reads. That's what I did.

If you use the front Z31 hubs you either need to use the Z31 rotors with Moderen Motorsports rotor spacer($150), Foneboothe makes one too http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes_zcar.html. Or JSK makes a Wilwood set up ($$$$$) for use with Z31 hubs or AZZCar's aluminum 5 lug with Wilwoods. If you use the MM stubs, that is the hub. You need to redrill the drum(easy)or go with disks. I am debating redrilling my own rear hubs. I'm just afraid I may be off a few thou and then the wheel won't bolt on. I have new wheels and tires sitting and waiting:( . You will need to use the earlier seal on the Z31 hubs.

240's are stiff enough for 400+ rwhp easily. I haven't had any weak chassis issues. I road raced mine for years in the street group with out a cage. Put a cage in which should stiffen it up a flexy body and the car was slower (more weight). I don't think the extra weight is proportianal to a stiffer chassis. They're unibody. I think those carrying the extra 400lbs would like to believe they are getting something they need out of it. If I was cutting the top off one I might use a 280 if those frame rails are longer.

Why not just use the Ford 5 bolt style wastegate housing. You can keep the internal wastegate. Just need to get a 5 bolt wastegate housing and flange for it. Look on Eaby the wastegate housings go for around $20 and flanges are about that or less. Saab, Ford and Volvo use the same set up. This way you are'nt stuck with your special one off Nissan stage 3 turbo if you want to go up to a stage V. It would probably be cheaper than having yours machined.