Clifton

I've heard, from a reliable Z31 nut that the 87-89's have a little higher compression along with a smaller turbo and less boost. Don't remember the exact CR other than low 8's.

I'm not saying ITS cars don't turn good lap times, they just don't get it done with power. I don't know if you have ever been in a high HP Z on a long straight. Anything other than GT1's. Again I'm talking about speed at the braking zone. ITS cars may carry a little more speed through a corner but now way do they use the brakes as long. The track record for an ITS car at Firebird is 1.07:4. It has held that as long as I can remember. That is not the norm though. The average would be lucky to break the 1.10's with a tail wind. Mine is a 1.05:7. I run used slicks and lack the time it takes to set it up to get every last second out of it. I can run the at the ITS all time record all day long and never think twice about brake fade. An ITS car does carry a little more speed through the turns but I will pass any ITS car like it's running on 4 cylinders down the long straight and have 30 mph before turnn 1. It may carry 5mph more through a turn but it doesn't have to brake as long either. That's how they can get Datsun brakes to work. If I had a way to put up some of the in car tape I would. I don't think anyone can make such an absolute statement. Remember, speed at the end of the straight is a COMBINATION of acceleration rate, acceleration time, and exit speed from the previous corner. If ITS car #1 hits the corner apex at 90 mph and V8 Z #2 apexes at 70 mph, car 1 has two advantages at the start. The first is that car 1 is generally able to get on the gas sooner so it has more time to accelerate and car 1 also started the acceleration run from a higher speed. The speed difference at the end of the straight won't be anywhere near as great as most people think 'cuz most folks think in terms of a drag race heads up start. And we can't use the "all things being equal" arguement because I have yet to hear of a V8 (or any hybrid) Z match the ITS lap record at any of the tracks I race on.

Are they adjustable on the car? They don't look to be.

With more than 300 hp stock brakes do suck on a road coarse. IT cars don't carry the same speed into the braking point as 300+ rwhp Z, not even close. Even with a strong tail wind . I tried pads and ducting them and they were still marginal. If you are running with Z06's and Viper's and are trying to out brake them, it won't be with stock calipers and rotors, at least not after one lap.

I ground the ends of mine off over 7 years ago and haven't had any problems. Only the driver side touched on mine though. You only need to trim a small amount. They only seem to touch on cars that are really low. This is also with 280 hubs, don't think you can run the 240 hubs with it.

Then how can you sit there and think your opponent (in the 900hp car) would not also match his gear and rpm to the conditions? Silly argument on your part. 856 was managable in 2nd...and didnt have a problem in 3rd..perhaps you need to learn a bit more about suspension instead of just tires...or learn that the throttle has more than two settings (on and off) and its progressive. See above comment See above comment and add learn to drive better. So let me get this straight...im crusing down the road at say 55 (average speed on most multi lane roads in the country...im going 81fps (roughly) and I would complete 1320 feet in 16 seconds if I didnt accellerate. Now taking a 900hp vehicle at full throttle accelleration that already would eclipse the 1/4 from a stop in say 10ish seconds....with a 55mph head start....we are talking less than 7 seconds to reach 1320 feet from the start of the race. I cant recall the last time a rollon race lasted 7 seconds...perhaps I dont hang out in the crowd you do...one gear races are for ricers. Most of the big power top end cars and other bikes want to go from 80 to as large as your balls are (sometimes well over 175)...I can promise you thats more than 1/4 of a mile. Again..where does this magical 3500 rpm number come from and why does the car you are racing always have to be at or below this number so you have the advantage? That just seems ridiculous....especially in your first quote saying you never make an opponent race on your terms...I guess that only applies to debates eh? Ok last reply, I'm tired of explaning stuff and cluttring up this post more than I have. Experience will come in time Grasshopper. You seem to know alot, maybe alot of second hand knowledge riding in the biitch seat of you friends car. None of it could be first hand or you would know most of what I am talking about. I have no terms 3-3.5k is just were the revs usually are when cruising, changing lanes, and passing. Yes some times you must down shift. But quicker spool makes a car more enjoyable in traffic, you wouldn't know. 3500-4500 rpm, whatever you want. You say they spool fast. BS Downshift and get the revs. You say 856 is managable. HMMM A a 350 HP Z has traction problems. Go figure. Oh wait I think you are comparing a 315mm tired, over weight MKIV. You say "it's not an on and off switch". In first gear it may as well be if you are trying to reach peak boost without spinning. I don't think you have actually driven a light car with power at 20+psi. I guess were you live there is a place to run someone to 175mph. On my drive home there isn't. If a C5 wants a quick spank I don't have to go to the "country" to go 175, I'm not too proud to lose from a 55-75 race. I have a track car when I get the itch to go wheel to wheel at 100+ and am not worried about wadding it up on a TRACK. I don't think it requires balls to go 175 on the street, maybe something else though. It only takes HP not skill to go 80-175mph or more. I don't hang out in a "crowd". What ever comes around when driving is what comes around. Honda, MKIV, or whatever. The big power, big headed guys don't do 1 or 2 gear races cause they'll loose and it would crush there ego. Do you frequent the SF board, MKIV stuff in specific. Most seem to think they are the greatest cars made. You would fit right in. You think a laggy, peaky power band is enjoyable on the street. I don't. A race car is different, You can't have both. I think your friends ( back to the 856rwhp guy) have race setups they drive on the street so they need to race on there terms, in a straight line, no turning, no braking, cause that's all heavy MKIV's are good for other than there donor motor.

A blanket..ignorant..and incorrect statement. Unless your idea of a "quick street race" is a ricer coming up to said supra...mashing the throttle and jumping out..then letting off the gas and calling it a win. Pathetic IMO..but if thats what you have to do to win..more power to you. Your street races last less than 1/4 mile? Thats pathetic..why even bother racing? From a roll..you cover 1/4 mile in a rather short time...thats just silly to me..but if thats your style of racing... Again..do you people not understand the concept of a boost controller...water/methanol/propane injection...etc? If I was racing someone from a roll...id be sure to be in the proper gear and proper RPM...those that dont are stupid. Your opinion..not fact. I happen to disagree...and since you have never driven either...I dont feel you are an expert on the subject. I read a magazine article on the ferarri enzo...however I dont feel that makes me an expert on the cars capabilities. Again...when im racing or attempting to accellerate quickly...I downshift regardles of what car(or bike) im driving/riding...why wouldnt you? Again...as posted earlier...your concept and ideas of "spool times" of todays modern large single turbos is highly flawed. 1. Sometimes it just happens to be that a race may start at a speed at which you are in second gear at 3k rpms or 3rd and at an rpm not favorable to fast spool. If someone wants to race me I'll oblige them, not say Oh wait It has to be on my terms. I'm always ready. 2. 900 hp isn't going to hook up in 1,2, or 3rd on street tires. 3. Say senaro 1. happens and you down shift to 1st or 2nd to get the revs up so you can make boost. Traction, what. 4. Modulating the throttle in a race in 1st or 2nd to avoid full boost (no traction) but still have enough boost (some traction) is hard enough with 400 hp, 900hp on street tires, ya. 4. If your street race is anywere near 1/4 mile in length you are an idiot especially in a 900 hp car. Unless maybe on a deserted road in BFE. I'm not looking to kill people. If someone has me after a few hundred feet and I'm not gaining so be it, I lost. I'm not going to run up to 120 mph in town/traffic to hopefully catch him and prove a point. 5. Spool. you cannot have a 100lb/min turbo spool reach full boost at 3500rpm on a 3l motor, thanks to compressor surge, regardless of the new GT wheel technology. To make that power you also won't be running an O or P trim, .58 for quick spool either. Cyrus. I don't know how much different the ac compressor mounting is on the 7m comparred to the 2jz, yours looks to be in the same rough area. I know I wouldn't be able to move mine back more than maybe another 1/2" before I get into the motor mount coming up from the crossmember. I wouldn't get into the firewall for an inch or 2 more. It will already sit alot further back than the L motor. I am running a universal parallel flow condenser 23.5"x12", under $80. They make larger ones but this one fit tight up against the radiator. I would sell the down pipe and fund the exhaust with the sell and make what you need. You can weld stainless with mig and steel wire. I have on stuff that won't be seen as the weld will still rust.

I've seen enough dyno sheets to know they don't have shite bellow 5k. You will need 30-35+ psi and race gas. Is this not accurate. Does that make a fun daily driver, or street car in general? Correct me if I'm wrong.

A 900rwhp 2jz on the street would get killed in a quick street race, 2nd gear 3k roll on with a small turboed Honda or anything. 1/4 mile would be different as you have time to run them down. You would have to run straight race gas, 30+ psi and wait till 5500 rpm for full boost. A smaller turboed 500 hp 2jz would make full boost by 3500-4k and have a higher fun factor on the street were quicker spool makes it alot funner to drive and rip in and out of traffic without dropping 2 gears everytime you need power. It's unrealistic to run race gas at all times, so now your 900hp 2jz is a laggy slow spooling 18-20 psi 500hp 2jz with 900hp braging rights on 30 psi and race gas.

Horsepower has nothing to do with the brakes. A 500 hp car and a 150 hp car on a track does make a difference in braking requirements. If the 150hp car is at 100 mph at it's braking point the 500 hp car will be going atleast 130. On the street HP makes no difference as You only will need one good stop, but stock brakes on a high HP Z on a track is pointless, if not dangerous IMO.

I ran mine back into the exhaust. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/clifton_ragland/detail?.dir=/Z+car&.dnm=L28---2.jpg

Mother Faucker I hate this new board. Every 5 minutes I have to re login and loose what I typed. Here I go again. O and P trims are T4 turbines, P being larger. If you want to stay bolt on and not run an external WG you need to stay with the T3 hotside. I would run a stg 3 or 5 wheel also.

I think they took a T3 compressor and used a t4 hot side. It says P trim but 2.296" is an O trim. 1.32 a/r is way to big. The only compressor trim that I know of that is a 45, which it sounds like it could be with a small 2 1/4" inlet. This is smaller than the stock T3. I would pay $50 as the turbine wheel and cartridge could be reused. But then you'll need to scrounge the rest. You will also need an external WG with it.

I didn't know it was after market. In that case I would use a center punch first then drill it out, going as large as I could without hitting the cam. Even if you aren't centered it will come out when you get through a side of the dowel and releives the pressure. If the bit lightly touches the side, a new dowel will still press in.

For what you are looking for I would agree with Lockjaw on the stg 3 or 5 with a .63 but I wouldn't bother with the old T4 compressor wheels. The gt35r wheel outflows the 60-1 and has a wider range and effiency than the T4E and Bs. He's on the board. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=31971

I bit my lip but couldn't hold it. Why would you want a 2.0 when a 2.8 is just as easy to do? That's alot of $ in parts and labor. If you are adding a turbo it's for power. Pick up a 2.8 core and go at it. I can't see you being happy with the out come other than the rarity, knowing you could have had alot more. As for rings. Just don't get the cheapies. Budget rings use gray cast iron for the top ring. You want ductile iron on the top one. Factory turbo ring are ductile.

Oops. It might be cheaper to just get another used cam. Someone will have to machine a new dowel for it unless you can find one that fits. I would get a friend to help with tightening the crank bolt. Pull the starter and get a big screw driver on a ring gear tooth and tighten. If you don't get it tight enough and like to rev it they will loosen up.

I run 17x7's, 38mm offset with 225 45's kumhos. Front has a 1.75", rear 1.5" spacer. The rear barely rubbed the fender lip, had to trim it. The fronts rub the front lower fender by the turn signals if turned just right. I also went as wide as I could possibly go with the spacer to give the wheels the flush look. Your 40mm wheels probably wouldn't rub with my spacers and I know MM's spacers are narrower than mine so you should be fine.

I wouldn't say inferior just more costly and complicated. The 2JZguys all seem to go single and they make silly HP. You can have a big single spool fairly fast, TimZ has a BIG turbo and has a nice torque curve. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=32009.

Someone has a write up, I've seen it before. You need the strut cartridge to hit the bottom of the housing when tight, leaving a small amount of thread exposed at the gland nut. So if your struts are 3" shorter you need to shorten the tube 3" or you could go 2" and use a 1" spacer in the bottom of the tube but it must hit the bottom. Also, I believe Ted is running 18"s and is still unibody. I didn't have enough time to check it out but it is one of the cleanest cars I've seen on a track, looks like a show car.

2 T4 compressors would be in the surge area at low rpm. Not enough airflow for them. You would be better off with 2 50 or 60 trim t3's with a smaller a/r on the turbine housing. IMO it's alot of work just to say twin turbo.

IMO the whole point of a turbo is to run as much psi as you can safetly and make as much power as you can. The more volume the more a/f you can stuff into it. You'll make more hp with the P90 as there is more volume to combust. You will have to run more psi to get it though. The added off boost torque from the higher c/r isn't worth it on the N42, these cars are light enough not to suffer from a 7.4 C/R when off boost. I have used both N42 and P90 and enjoy running 22 psi with the P90.

I second that. Go elsewere. It's not wrth the risk.