Clifton

I think I'm going to get a pair of 555R 205-55-14" as they are cheap and try them at the strip/ ocasional street, till my 17's are gone then either go wider or stickier. Makij, I know what you mean about the rain, full boost and water don't mix

I know this is an old thread. Currious to see if anyone with 300+ rwhp or known 12 sec cars tried a different street tire and found it to have decent second gear grip. I cranked the boost up a little more on the 7m Z and now I have no traction in second at all, kinda fun to play around and roll on the throttle at 45 and spin them but it's useless till 3rd . I am running 225/45-17 Kuhmo 711's.

Nissan and Toyota L6's are heavy enough. 4.0's a have cast iron heads and I'm sure the block height is going to be taller. I have been in a 4.7 Cherokee and is was fast though, easy 14.?0. Just wouldn't put it in a light car.

Your right, I guess I wasn't clear. Trans and bellhousing and front D shaft yoke are all R154 Toyota.

Yes, It's Toyota stuff within the same family use the same bell housing bolt patern. 2RZ-3RZ, 20R-22R, 3VZ-5VZ, 1JZ-2JZ, ect

I've used 2 MHG in on L28's even reused one twice, never had any lapping. Alot of Supra guys swear by it though.

I'm almost 100% sure the 2JZ 550's are side feed. I'm not 100%' date=' but I think the MKIV 550cc injectors are high impedence and the 7MGTE are low. You might have a problem there.[/quote']

If you have neither I think the 7M is better if you over look the HG problem. Already a 3.0, 4 valve head, makes more power stock and modded, has decent stock injectors and intercooler, with a quick shim of the wastegate it will be fast enough for most. If you search under my posts or 7MGTE you should find what you're looking for. There are a few pics on my link.

The bulbs are clear, the green comes from the little plastic cover on the back of the guages that can be removed.

I'm running an external Walbro in my L28 Z and it puts out enough food for my hp.

That was quick. Thanks

I've seen a video of a supercharged black 240Z with a V8 racing a bike and burning through the gears, anyone know were to find it or other insane stuff. I also saw a turboed bike wheelie through every gear, would like to find that again too.

What's the top ring land thickness? I know they can take some boost, I run 12 psi on a 3VZE but don't know how strong they really are as I don't want to push it.

I think some people think they are going to gain alot of power with an extra 300cc's over an L28. The difference between an L24 and an L28 is greater and that's not saying much. A 3.1 alone won't put out 300hp. You could send your head to Rebello or another reputable head guy and get more HP with a stock L24-28 than a 3.1 with a stock head. Adding displacement is an easy way of increasing torque but without headwork you're not going to get much more out of it. HP is about air flow.

The R154 came with 1JZ's and 7MGTE's. The shifter will be about 2" more forward than the Z shifter. I cut the R154 shifter off at the base and welded a 3/8" thick by 1" wide by 2" long peice of steel to the stub and then welded the top of the Z shifter to that, just 2" further back. The JZ's and 7M's use a different bellhousing but the trans is the same.

Torque can be multiplied, HP cannot. If you did this in first gear it is possible you had 850 ft lbs at the wheels. Your engine is not producing that at the crank. This is why I take eveyones torque figures lightly. Your HP sounds about right though.

Long time ago I ran an L26 with N42, no intercooler, but had water injection. Your compression should still be 8.8:1. P90 and P79 have the same combustion chambers so you wouldn't be loosing compression. You could always run a 2MM HG, I would.

Pretty sure they are billet.

I talked to Dave at Arizona Zcar car last night and he said they should be available around the end of January. Barbed or O-ring(DSM). This is all I know, just passing it on.

Might need different conectors for the wires, stock bracket might not work, If it's barbed than the hose will work. Will work fine with stock FPR it just pumps the fuel. It's just a fuel pump, you need some shop to do that too?

The R154 will bolt up and the shifter will come up through the center if you dog leg it. Compared to everything else involved it was easy. I used the Z car top and R154 base. The G series will also bolt up but I don't know were that puts the shifter, it's also not as strong.

A few degrees of timing isn't causing the back fire. If it's though the carb and the valve timing is on which it would be if it ran good before then it's lean, shouldn't do it at idle though. It may need a little more fuel at idle or throttle angle to rev higher. I would richen it up, if it doesn't help just turn it back to were it was. Also if you retard the timing at idle it will be retarded the same amount at at high rpm.

http://www.arizonazcar.com/

I fit's a street car that has to pass emissions I wouldn't do it. Running 38* at idle is alot , 22* on a turbo car isn't as bad. If it was a N/A car I would just fix it. On mine I removed thje springs and wired the weights together. Someone else here has also done it but did another method. As for what RPM to set it at, it doesn't matter as it will hold it from idle to redline. If it's an N/A motor you'll want around 35-38* , if it's turbo 18-30* depending on boost, turbo, fuel ect. I ran 22*.

Theres a few pics on the link below on how I did mine. When I originally did it I just pulled it off the back end (number 6) of the manifold for simplitcity. After moving the motor back 2" I no longer had room and ended up with what's in the pics, I also used pipe for the plumbing.