Clifton

http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=31971

If the turbine wheels are the same then you are fine.

240Z Turbo on here has T3 hybrids and T4's with the new GT35R compressor wheel. Flows more than the 60-1 at about the same price.

The stock block part isn't going to limit your HP. Detonation is the only HP limiter, well in your case the turbo.

Yes they are both T3's. Fords use a different bolt pattern on the WG housing and DP. You could swap turbine housings but I wouldn't. $411 is way too much for a DP IMO. You could buy a welder and do it yourself for about the same money. Making a flange isn't to hard. If you don't have a place to do it. I'd get some one to make you a flange, bolt it on and go get 3" exhaust.

T3 compressor is a 60 trim, turbine housing has .63 a/r with standard T3 wheel. From what I've seen on the net the Ford has a 60 trim too.

You don't need any saftey switches. Overflow.. With heat comes more pressure, too much and the saftey feature in the cap lets it out. You need a helmet for 13.00-13.99. You'll need the D shaft loop for anything in the 12's. If you have a loop tell the tech guy or he'll assume you won't be in the 12's and you'll end up going back to tech if you run your 12. I think 11.9 is were you need the cage/bar, I haven't got there yet.

What turbo. Compressor, turbine trim, and a/r? Clifton

With valve springs the only thing I have problems with are pulleys. 7000-7500rpm. Sometimes it's not worth up shifting on a road coarse so I spin it higher than I need to.

Welds just like regular steel. Galvanized is a little dirtier but still not to bad. I nvere clean either.

How much psi are you running? Clifton

You can get a new 255lhr Walbro pump for about half that. You'll need a TB spacer for the KA24 TB. http://www.arizonazcar.com/cars Price depends on what the demand is. I've got $50-60 on Ebay for the few I sold.

I would think the torque specs would be the same even going into aluminum. The torque is to get proper bolt stretch which you need in either material. You also need the length to know the proper torque.

You can pick up a magnetic base and dial indicator really cheap at Harbor Frieght. There's no other accurate way of checking it if you don't have it. If you do, never mind.

It's all custom, done in my garage. Don't know if any one make anything for the Z31's that is 3", which is all I would put on a turbo car. But for what alot of after market companies ( HKS, Greddy, ect) charge you could buy a welder, mandrel bends, and tube and come out about even. I've had exhaust done in the past though. Just tell them what YOU want.

I'm running 3" with a 16" long Dynomax bullet and a Hooker ultra flow (big straight through glasspack). Not to loud but you know it's not stock. I don't thnk that one bullet will do it unless you like an attention getter.

I used a sheet of I think 400 grit sandpaper on a smooth surface and held both shells and went at till they fit. I checked them with the calipers as I was sanding to make sure I was getting them even. I rotated them 90* every so often also. Came out fine.

Here's another option, AZ Z Car. Has to be the lightest.

Wow, you must of had a small return line. If you go tight it would lean it out. How do you know your "ping" isn't from timing. You would have to be pretty lean to get a rattle. As for adjusting the wheel. If left alone it would open at peak torque at WOT, 3000-3500rpms. I've tested other flapper door AFMs but not on an L28. If you soften it to richen it up it will just be richer until you reach the point when it evens out again, 3000-3500rpm, then it will be as it was stock. You say it runs better no. It doesn't sound to lean then. I would back the timing off a little, maybe 2*. If you are determend to richen it up I'd get an adjustable FPR. Clifton

2 L28 turbos might work but if it a single your after and big HP then you should probably spend a little more on what you need, atleast a 62-1 or one of the T series.

I would put it as far back as you can. If you supercharge it you will end up with traction problem and wish it was back further.

In order to get close the the hp you want, the head work and cam required will make it peaky regardless of new technology. Not trying to talk you out of it just don't want you to end up with a 350hp motor 8.5k that doesn't come on till 5k like a 350hp GT2 motor, wouldn't be fun on the street. I would talk to a few people that have a similar set up, Rebello, Malvern, ect. Also if it will run on pump on the street there would be no benifit to useing race gas at the track.

The n/a motor doesn't have the beefy gte pistons and the compression is higher. Don't know of the other differences, though I'm sure the injectors are smaller.