Clifton

That's what I did on mine. One little peice of slag will ruin your day. If you have the room which it looks like you do just hose clamp it. I am running a metal T4 gasket. They have a bead that crushes a little to seal so I don't think you could just make one unless it was from a soft copper. If the 2 surfaces are flat you don't need to run a gasket, I don't with the GN turbo on my truck.

You shouldn't need an adjustable regulator, unless yours went bad between fill ups which is unlikely. Lowering your FP below stock will just limit your power. Get a $5 universal pressure guage and check the pressure between the fuel pump and regulator. Make sure it is hooked up correctly and returning excess fuel to the tank. If you have the in and out reversed it will not work at all. Even if you had 70 psi it would still run.

You should have 80 psi coming from the pump. The fuel pressure regulator will bleed off extra fuel back to the tank to lower the pressure. Did you install this motor?

You sure it's not an R230? http://www.arizonazcar.com/cars has R230 mustache bars. They only have the R200 listed though.

We set one in a 240. You can get the pan behind the cross member but the4 left head will be right up against the firewall. We also sat it on the cross member but it is a little tall for that. Making a new cross member clearance for the oil pan would be best. Those are light motors. 2 of us picked it up and got it in there with out a lift , can't do that with an L. It didn't have manifolds though.

A 275 will fit inside the fender. A 245 is too wide for a 7" wheel.

I ordered some from AIM. 1.75" in the front and 1.5" for the rear. With a 17x7" 38mm offset and a 225/45/17 they flushed out perfect. I did have to trim the driver side fender though. I didn't want a gap between the tires and fender.

Electric gauges require a pressure sensor which rasies the cost. I've never had a problem with there mechanical gauges.

As long as the intercooler is aluminum and not SS I wouldn't worry to much. A 2-2.5" diameter pipe isn't going to disapate to much heat. The charge air is moving to fast for it to benifit from it. I used mild steel, it is thin wall so it's fairly light and is easier to weld than aluminum.

I just finished a small web page. I did a write up on both. I still need to get better pics of the tires as they look smaller than they are in the pics I took. They look wider in person. http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/Brakes.html http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/Tires.html

http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html

A junk yard motor got me over 400rwhp . If you are looking to run 25 psi with race gas I would definetly get a turbo capable of flowing what you need 61mm or larger and atleast 550cc or larger injectors. Some of those intercoolers say 3" thick but the core is actually a litle thinner. I've seen a few bar and plate ones on Ebay that were 3" thick though.

Sounds toed out. Setting toe is easy with 2 flat boards or other flat surfaces.

What he said. Also there are 2 plugs in the hatch and the inner hatch pannel that need to be air tight or it will still get in.

You would have to run a 4 to 5 lug adapter and thinnest I could find was still too thick (2") to run even a 35 MM offset wheel. I redrilled my rear stubs and drums. With a 35mm offset 9" wheel a 1/2" spacer would be perfect to fit a 275 tire. You could run a Mustang wheel with a 26mm or so offset but the fronts are as wide as the rears in the 17"'s, atleast what I was finding. I only wanted/needed 8's in the front. I don't know if you can redrill the rears on a 280ZX but it is cheaper than getting custom wheels.

I'm making about what you plan on and am running 1.5" adapters on the rear, atleast I was until last week. I'm running a T58. You will only be able to run a 7" wheel. I have zero traction in 1st and 2nd gear, even with the boost turned downed to 16 psi for the hell like AZ summer. In the winterat 18-19 psi I have 3rd gear traction issues. It's fun at times but annoying when you want traction and it's not there. In a week I'll have 9"s on with 275's . So yes they can handle the strain but the tires will not, not until you get into atleast 3rd gear. If you are serrious about your power I wounldn't run the 7's.

The rear supsension on Z31's is about as bad as it gets. There is a guy in AZ that put a complete rear Z32 rear suspension onto a Z31. pretty much bolted on. I don't know if he posts on here though. He said the track was a little wider than the Z31. He was still using Z31 front though. 240SX rear suspension is very similar, I don't know if the mounting is the same but it would be a cheaper swap.

You would be no were near 90% at idle. Maybe 7 psi at redline. Shouldn't be more than 3% at idle even with the small stock injectors. The cooler the air the more resistant to detonation. Timing might also be retarded a little more when cold, no sure though. Are you intercooled? Do you pick up fresh in front of the core support?

With out a wide band O2 how do you know you need to increase the fuel pressure? Your a/f's might not be far off, or maybe they are. It's impossible to get them were you want them with out a dyno or wide band. Tunning on a dyno gets expensive.

You will need to use the correct compressor housing and backplate too if the exducer is larger. Don't know how much power you are looking to make but the stock T3 turbine wheel is a power limiter too.

I've done it and never had problems with the turbo. Same goes for rebuilding them. Each part is balance. I know Turbonetics balances theres as an assembly and they mark each part so they can be lined up on assembly. Clifton