Clifton

Those are for the non turbo 2JZ's. The T is for turbo in the 2JZGTE.

Sorry to get off topic. Are you running the Yokohama's? What kind of psi are you running cold/hot? Thanks Clifton

http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/ext_pump.html

1JZ is a 2.5 rated at 280 hp. They are popular swaps with the mkIII guys. If I were going to do it I would do the 2JZ, It's all about hp or you wouldn't want it .

On a turbo car you have plenty of torque once you get into boost. I like having my power band up into the higher rpm range were the HP is and were I tend to be when I need it.

That is urban legend. As long as the boost line is connected the tha vac port any FPR will increase FP 1:1 until the pump can no longer keep up, wich on a stock pump may only 7 psi above atmo. I've tested the stock FPR with 30 psi to the vac port while testing my pump for volume/ pressure and it works fine.

Retarding the cam timing gives more top end, advancing more bottom end. The 2 and 3 holes advance it more, good if your chain has 200k on it. I run mine on 1.

For a little more you can get a used HKS AIC one Ebay, still run the stock injectors and make big hp. That's how I did it before I got the SDS. 6 stock L28 turbo injectors and 2 550cc's with the AIC. You are only going to get so much out of a 270cc injector, and what there is still is not enough.

I wasn't going to ask but I feel impelled. A carb needs to be set to were the the motor runs best. If it has proper A/F through the revs and under load and at idle you can't just turn it down and have it run cleaner. I doubt he changed the mains but if it idles good and he turned the idle jets down, leaning it out, it will fail just as bad as if it was to rich. So if it does fail, don't be too discouraged theres alot of ex. analyzers out there.

I didn't want to say till I got a chance to run it a few more times cause it was so close to a 12, but beeing that you asked. 13.005 @ 108.8 This was at 10 psi on a stock 7M with stock turbo and 177k miles.

They are not required to have cats. I have never had a smog pump on any Z and never had problems with it. Unless the cam is silly big it shouldn't hurt you to much. The 4 barrel isn't a bad thing as more people would know what to do with it to get you through than with SU's. I would make sure your timing is to specs and run it through.I can't remember if they check the gas cap though. When you go, there is a sign that lists by year as to what test you have to do. You get one re-test for free and only the IM 240 is $27, yours will be cheaper. Don't sweat it.

I don't know why you guys are talking about putting a cat on it. It isn't required or needed to pass. 74 and older they don't check for equipment, don't open the hood. It is also just an idle test not the "EVIL" IM 240 that can be a much harder if not running in top shape. Anyone with an exhaust analyzer can get it through.

Just curious, what kind of boost / hp are you running?

15* total at the stock 7 psi with 7.4:1 is a little low. You could run 25+ psi on pump with that little timing . I run 22 psi at 20*-22* total, can't remember wich. The middle to high 20's sounds right. You should add another 10*.

I got a T4 flange for $10, welded it on and hoged out the tiny T3 hole to match it. It isn't a big deal especially that you are going external anyways, mounting the WG will take longer. If you are not going external you might be better of with the T3/4, but I wouldn't run the .63. Z car guys seem to be the only 6 cylinder people hanging on the the T3/4. MKIII, MKIV,GN, and RB's making big HP on single turbos all seem to be using T4's.

There's some of mine on the link below. The door bars extend to the doors outer skin (fiberglass doors) for a good amount of safety.

If you are going external wastegate and a t3/4 60-1 and it is $625, I would just go with a full T4 60-1 for $25 more. You won't regret it. There is more than enough motor to spool it. With what you listed you should have no problem making atleast 350+ rwhp when cranked up.

You should have more than one water temp sensor, one for the gauge and at least one or more for the ecu. You can use a different sender as long as the range is the same. When I did my 7M swap I put the L28 and 7M one into a pot of water on the stove and heated them and checked resistance as the temp went up. The 7m had a completely different range so I turned the Z one down a little on a lathe and used it. I obviously used the L oil pressure sender as that just screws in, VG30 should have the same threads.

I had to do this before I had the SDS. I removed the wieghts and wired the tabs the weights were on. I had my total between 20-25*. Being that you are N/A I would assume you'll be around 35*, too much and you'll get a light rattle even at cruise. Don't know if emissions is required for you but it will be hard to pass with the timing so high at idle. You can adjust your timing so you total timing is were you want it. just keep the revs above 3500 so all the mechanical is in and then set it. Anytime I adjust timing I always go for total and not idle. Except when going throught emissions. You'll need a timing light with a dial on it.

I've had round tops, DGV Webers and a 4 barrel with a 390cfm. I like the 4 as it had an electric choke and never needed minor tuning as the SU's seem to need until you get them right. You are going to need a unisyn also. If the prices were the same I'd go with the 4bbl but SU's are cheaper . As far as HP, I don't think there is going to be to much of a difference on a basicaly stock motor. Back in the day I beat an SU carbed Z with my 4bbl and crappy manifold that bolted to the SU manifold, not to say it's better, just isn't anyworse. I know that Az Z Car's manifold has a plenum seprator that others don't, I don't now the benifit of it though.

Dam. I didn't know SX's were that light. I figured with all the gov't induced crash bumper BS on them they'd be closer to 2900. Although not an RB, the motor weight might be close. My 73' with a 7MGTE, R200, a half tank of gas and 40lb spare was 2630.

I don't see how you could do it complete in a few days, 2 weeks with help I could see. Custom exhaust, driveshaft, intercooler plumbing, and motor/trans mounts + wiring takes time. I had a few days just in the exhaust.

I got mine from Arizona Z Car. They look like the HKS ones but have a little more angle. I know SDS also sells them, although it's a different design. I think it would be hard to sell something premade as alot of us are running different intercoolers, tube size, and our plumbing varies from car to car, unlike a Z32 turbo were the plumbing is all the same.