Clifton

What weight oil are you running in your carbs? Just a possibilty, but it could be too light allowing the piston to rise to soon, before there is adequate air flow and this is giving it a lean condition for a brief second at low rpm and quick full throttle.

Thanks, I knew the stub shafts were different. I have and R200 in one 240 but I put it in so long ago I can't remember if I used the stock R180 shafts, but I think I had trouble with one of the shafts being too long. I just want to have everything ready for this car so I don't have to run back and forth to the Junk yard. Also anyone know the going rate for R200 stubs. The pick & pull wanted 16.95 each + core + tax. Seemed like alot for me doing all the work.

Are R200 shafts shorter than R180? Or I should ask, can R180 halfshafts be used with an R200 diff?

60-1, H, or 60E. Look at the maps and choose it based on what you are planning to run it at. E's are really effiecent but won't flow what a 60-1 will.

The turbo pumps have a longer gear. 1.570" compared to the N/A's 1.372". You can adjust the pressure of either pump. I would run the turbo pump even if the pressure was the same. more volume will give you more pressure at lower rpms before the relief setting is reached.

I was running one. I had a 2.5" outlet to match my TB. I was running 20 psi and made a but load of power. I'm now running a Supra intercooler, just becuase I know they flow a little more but The cars was wicked fast with the Conquest.

I don't want to be the buzz kill but don't get your hopes up unless you are doing some serious head work. 140 extra hp from an extra 300cc's isn't going to happen on a stock or almost stock head. On a 6 cylinder the hp and injector cc will be about the same. 280 hp would be about 280cc per cylinder at 100% duty cycle. You could pick up some 370cc ford injectors cheap.

If you plan to turbo it you should use a piston strong enough to take the abuse. Nissan N/A pistons don't have a thick enough top ring land to take the abuse that will come there way with a turbo. I've stacked a few ring lands but never on a stock turbo piston.

Thanks for the offer but I think it would be pretty expensive with shipping.

Thanks for the replies. Looks like I still need a crank or have Mine turned.

I bent my L28 crank (P30) and have access to two E3141 or E31-41 cranks. Anyone know what these are out of. I have to drive accross town to get one and check so if some one knows for sure, you might save me 2hrs of driving.

Stock wastegastes start to move around 7psi. You can put a bike pump on it with a gauge and see were yours is opening at.

True a rising rate regulator wouldn't be of any benifit unless it's base pressure is adjustable. I was refering to a regular adjustable regulator. If factory fuel pressure is about 40 psi at 0" vaccum, it can be adjusted to say 50 or whatever is needed. Any 280zx turbo injector 81-83 or 300zx turbo 84-85, don't know about the 86+ years. I have some 280ZXT inj on Zcar.com $75 shipped http://zcar.com/classifieds/class_parts/18929

Doh, that sucks. The titanium bits are only coated. You can try a cobalt carbide bit and drill that and the ez out, I know Ace sells them. It has to be carbide though. I used a carbide dremel bit to get an ez out before(manifold stud) but ended up having to heli-coil the hole after I got it out.

The return line on 240 tanks are pretty small. Only a problem with a big pump.

You can swap in some turbo injectors or use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I would probably go with the FPR Mallory has them for around $70. A bigger cam and TB aren't going to change you fueling needs to much if any at all.

Use a good sized ez out. If you break it off in there they are nearly impossilbe to get out as they are tool steel and harder than highspeed drill bits. You might try some heat around it if the oil doesn't get it. Good luck.

No, I only road race it. There's a good mix of imports and everyone there can appreciate another car regardless of make or origin. I might have a problem in Detriot or other cities with a little too much US auto pride though. Or maybe most of the people that would have a problem with it (WWII vets) are a little to old now and can't get out as much . I wouldn't dare put an Irag or French flag on it, they would probably burn with it.

I'll try posting the pic. If you don't see it click the Yahoo link at the bottom. [/img]

I will be doing a 7MGTE swap too. I have 2 more races this year for the 71 then I'll start restoring the 73. I have all the factory wiring engine and trans sitting in the corner. They can make big HP fairly easy, as easy as the RB's. I've been collecting parts for the car.

I dealt with them once. I bought an HKS HG and a valve. They finally sent the valve after forgetting about it for two weeks and it was the .100 longer one. I ended up eating shipping charges and getting a refund as they took there sweet time about getting the first one out that was supposed to be in stock. The HG came quick though. It was their rude and unapolagetic attitude that will keep me from going back. I will sell my Z car first before using them again.

I didn't touch the block, messed with the head a little but I didn't even do a valve job.

I believe the backplates are the same. It's just the seasl that's different. I think it's the carbon that you need if you are doing a suck through and pulling vaccum on the inlet.

Here's the details http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18651 I did change the timing. 35* total off boost. gradually retarding to 19* total from 18 -24 psi. Mike, yes It's this weekend. I'm going out there Saturday. http://www.arizonamotorsportspark.com/ You should consider something larger than those 40lb/hr injectors. With your turbo you shouldn't have a problem making what I made and then some. It would be alot easier to set up the SDS if you didn't need to use a rising rate regulator.