Tony240ZT

I'd say $350 for a complete long block + intake + turbo from a yard. It's easier if you get as much stuff as possible including the harness, ecu, sensors, etc. The borg warner t5 needs minor custom work to get installed in a early Z. The turbo alternator puts out like 75 amp, which is a great upgrade, the starter is a gear reduction one I believe, also good upgrade. The radiator can be put into the earlier Z and adds better cooling, although it hangs down a little in the front and could get hit if you park your car over one of those parking lot deals. People say its worth it though. Ross C. is selling a set of CV adapters for the early Z car which would require the use of the CV's out of the 280ZX Turbo. It's possible that the R200 rear end, and brakes could be swapped over from the 280ZX, so it may be easiest to get a complete car if you have the room.

yo2001, I think the best source for oil would be on the passenger side where a oil line goes to the front of the block and has an oil plug up there. I think it would be accessable from inside if you drilled into it. Then it would just be a matter of routing some custom pipes making sure to have clearance for rods and such. If you have a picture of the bottom end, or a cutaway drawing of the RB26DETT I'd love to see. I can't find anything in the "how to modify your nissan & datsun ohc engine" on oil squirters, but I bet the L28ET in the electromotive race car had them. If anyone has more info on the engines used in the 280ZX Paul Newman raced I'd love to know about it.

David, I'm with you. I'd like those bran new engines, seats, wheels, etc. Must have been an exciting ride. Had to have been a smoother ride since it was in a Lexus, right?

I'm sure something could be built. Maximum Boost and Smokey Yunick's power secrets has some tips on shooting oil at the bottom of the cylinders. I'd like to do this myself on a street performance prepped L28ET block that I have laying in the garage. Just afraid of making commitments. The books have ideas on the size of the injector holes, but I can't find my books right now. This combined with ceramic coating would make for an awesome setup. I just wish I had the extra money to get all of my internals coated, and treated.

Check out "How to Modify Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine" by Frank Honsowetz. It has info on what to pay attention to, what you can lighten, how to ballance, and lots of other tips.

I think the price would be fair if you were buying it bran new with the oil feed lines/return lines, and a warranty. The cast intake pipes are nice looking, and probably expencive, but as soon as you go with an intercooler they aren't useable. For the money pick up a used 280zx turbo exhaust manifold, a t3/t4 turbo, NPR intercooler, blow off valve, oil cooler, electric fan(s). You'd be much happier, and your car would be much faster.

I'm very surprised! I had no idea that BMW would sell such untested crap. Broken valves, broken rods, bent crank shafts all with very low mileage. I thought these cars did well in many racing classes, and performance without reliability don't cut it. Anyone know why the valves are filled with sodium? Well, I bet a lot of these cars will be selling for dirt cheap after the warranty is gone. If the rest of the car is in good shape (suspention/brakes/interior electronics) it could be used to stick a RB engine into Who knows though, the same guys that designed the engine could be some of the same type that designed the chassis.

Just don't try to park over those parking islands, and drive side ways over gutters/speed bumps. My car is lowered with Tokico springs/struts, and has the MSA air dam kit. I haven't hit anything yet and I've had the car setup like this for over 2 years. Slight change in driving habits, but it's worth it. I'd like to get an air dam for my orange 240Z, if anyone has one in used condition that is repairable then let me know.

My turboed L24 should be inspiring enough to have others turbo a non turbo block. It's a stock bottem end with around 100K miles with a P90 head. T3/T4 turbo, intercooled, `83 ZXT electronics, and I'm pretty sure I'm running high 13's right now. My CR is 7.54:1. The turbo pistons are better setup for the forced induction, but as long as you keep an eye on your air/fuel ratios and make sure not to ping (very much) then all should hold together for more than a few thousand miles.

Here is a picture I made up for someone a while back. Although I'm pretty sure the car needs power all the time there for the ECU. Where else does the ECU get power if not there? Anyways, that is the way my car has been running. There is also the green wire on the passenger side that drives the + side of the injectors, does the black/white wire from over there give power to the ECU, thought it was just for the distributor? Both of these wires are from the relay on the passenger side. By "not used" I mean not important to the running of the engine. I think some A/C wires are run through that plug, along with boost sensor, and temp sensor.

Also, an interal wastegate can add turbulence to the excaping gasses from the turbine. The old waste gate hole can be covered and then welded up. Then mount your external where ever is best. "Maximum Boost" has great pointers on the best place to mount the port of the waste gate.

I've heard that Turbo & Electric sells a t04 exhaust flange, call 1-800-738-8726 and ask for Scott. They are located in Phoenix. You could probably weld the new flang on over the old one then port it out, or do what others have done and use the old port as a place for the waste gate, and punch out a hole further forward on the exhaust manifold for the turbo.

Something I noticed about my t04b/t3 hybrid is that the car isn't so freaking touchy now. Before I would give it a little throttle and boost would sneak up on me quick and the car would act like I put my foot into it. Pretty jerky effect, I guess the larger 65mm throttle body played a large part in this combined with the small compressor. This quick respons I had lead me to believe I would have a lot more power if I gave it the rest of the pedal, but nope, not much left after that uncontrolable peak. Now the car is much more driveable on the streets. Boost is much more predictable and the trasition is smoother.

Check out ebay, and thepartstrader.com The V trim is a T04B compressor with a 2.180" inducer, and 2.750" major. There is a "Super" V trim that has a 3" major that turbonetics sells, and is better for higher boost. The inducer is the diamter accross the top part of the compressor wheel, the major is the diameter of the back of the compressor wheel, which must also match the compressor backing plate.

The Mercedes 450SL injectors were too large for me. I was always running rich with them even if I shorted out the head temp sensor wires! I was running them on a 2.4L, so a 2.8L may be able to take on a bit more fuel, but still, I'd use an adjustable fuel presure regulator with them. The Mustang SVO/Merkur XR4Ti injectors were a better fit for me. I still run a little rich at idle, but things even out when under boost.

Hey guys, my cooling down kinda snow balled into being a turbo upgrade. Which should also be considered as cooling down intake air with the higher effeciency at higher boost levels. As stated in a previous post I got my hands on a t04b with V trim compressor, I also had a 14 row starion intercooler that I had 2 1/2" pipes put on the sides to help it flow a little better. The dual electric fans have helped eminsly, they are OEM ones, one being off of a Puegott (sp?). Pulling air accross the oil cooler has helped as well. Here is a picture of the new t3/t4 installed: That paint won't last too long, but it's nice for the picture. Here is a picture of the new 2 1/2" mandrell pumbing, and fan.: What a difference this made for the car. I'm only running around 8 pounds of boost and am having traction problems in the lower gears. What a blast, and it is now consistantly fast, not just when it's cool out side. Still not making as much horse power as my Supra MKIII Turbo next to it, however, the car is faster because of the weight difference. I'll update to this thread soon on my 1/4 mile time from what my G Tech says. My car weighs around 2550 pounds with me in it, and I expect a low 14 second run, or a high 13's. My L24 is getting a little tired, quite a bit of blow by is passing through. I suspect the rings are starting to let go. I have a F54 block with turbo pistons that I will likely swap in after a little bit. Thanks for the imput on the last thread!

I've had the same experience with most all used nissan t3's which have a rubber seal pressed into the back of the compressor back plate. I think it's possible that the full round rubber seal prevents less oil to pass than the C clip type. Oil in the turbo may push the seal against the shaft and make the shaft have less play, but not sure on that. The C clip compressor seal seams to make the side to side play a lot less, because it acts as another supporting point for the shaft. You will need a different compressor back plate to use the C clip setup. I know for a fact that the volvo 740's came with this type, and it will easily swap over. Then if you want a fresh set of bushings, seals, etc you tell them you have a t3 off of the volvo 740 and you will get the correct seal kit. I meantioned that the C clip type seal probably doesn't seal as well, but turbonetics may have a C clip that over laps which is suppose to seal much better and probably keep the shaft centered better, since they have one for the compressor side. One bad thing about the C clip setup is that if you don't have a good supply of oil to the turbo not only do you mess up your bushings, maybe the shaft, but also the back of the compressor housing gets messed up! Here is a picture of the nissan type of seal: And here is the part that fits up into the back of the compressor housing with the C clip type of seal: My t04B compressor housing came with this type, and is very tight. Also another thing you could do is get a 360 degree thrust bearing which would help a bunch. If you go for a rebuild Turbo City has them for around $115. You can find them at http://www.turbocity.com/ and they are located just a block away from MotorSport near Disney Land. Nissan built in a lot of room for slack in the compressor housings, if your compressor wheel is not touching the housing then don't stress too much. On the other hand, if you have the turbo out, have the cash to rebuild then go for it. I have rebuilt many t3's so that they are like new, if you'd like to have yours rebuilt I'll do it for $150, and could have it back to you in the same week. Here is a picture of one I rebuilt a while back:

Very cool story, the supras you speak of are MKIII's `86-`92, `87-`92 if turboed. I own an `87 turbo with an auto tranny, put on an HKS 65mm exhaust system, cone filter, and boost controler. The turbo/intercooled 7m-gte does a great job of making power, but the cars are super heavy, like 4000 pounds. Stock turbo 1/4 mile times are mid 15's I think at around 7 pounds of boost, they can run 11 psi before fuel cut which only gets them into the low 15's to high 14's. Great engine, but such a heavy car, and the engine management system isn't setup well to get a lot of power easily. The engine should do nicely in my `72 240Z with the wolf3d stand alone EMS. Watch out for supra guys that have gone to a T66 turbo, HKS VPC, larger injectors, fuel system, aftermarket FMIC, etc. The cars come from the factory with 4.10:1 LSD rear end, tons of room for larger wheels/tires, one hell of a tranny, and can really lay the power down. Since I'm a supra owner I think I have the right to say that most supra people think they have the ultimate car on the road (big headed), and to kill one in a street race has got to be loads of fun.

A 280Z one will bolt in easily and work for the eletronic ignition. They can be found pretty cheaply in the junk yards. Look up Brian Little's web page on how to do the swap, I think you have to swap the leads, and use the old metal housing. You can swap the face over if you want, the red line is a little different I think, and the lettering is slightly different. If you go aftermarket I think 5" is the size these things are. I almost did something different and grabbed a porsche vdo tach, the needle starts out pointing directly south and goes on up from there, but the one I had my hands on only went up to 6K rpm, so I put it back. It would fit in the Z really easily. I bet there are others with higher readings, would be unique.

Living here in Bakersfield there are a LOT of big truck shops, and lots of turbo repairs going on. I found a place that would swap a t3 compressor for a used t4 they had, for just a few beans. Just happened to find a compressor that I thought would be good sized for my application it's a TO4B V with a .60 A/R. What do you think, sounds good for my L24ET? Here is a picture of it along with a couple other crompessors I had laying around: The left is the t4, the right is a t3 off of a volvo 740 with a .42 (I think) A/R, and bottom is the 280ZX t3 with a .60 A/R. I've got everything to bolt it in, so should be soon, still finishing up my IC piping. Think I should get my turbine clipped now?

I have to agree about getting beat up in the 240Zs if you drive them around a lot. That's the main reason why I bought the `81 280ZX GL with all the comfy heavy stuff. Besides the old seats the car is super comfortable, but it just doesn't feel sporty enough for me to put money into it to mod it. I keep the car in good shape, which is easy because they are very reliable. Like stated before the 280ZX blends in with the croud and doesn't get as much of the attention from cops. If you have a little more room to park cars I'd drive around the 280ZX daily and mod a 240Z for the reasons listed above. Also no one has meantioned that resell is much easier with a 240Z. I think you're more likely to get more of your money back out of it after putting money into it. People will travel far for a rust free, fuel injected turbo'd 240Z, but anyone can pick up a 280ZX for nickles and dimes. Don't get me wrong there are some nice 280ZX's out there worth the money, but I think if you put that same investment into a 240Z then you'd be better off. If all you're concerned about is making yourself happy then none of that really matters though. I live in California so my `73 and the `72 are smog exempt. Although I probably wouldn't do much to the 280ZX if I could. I'm pretty happy to have the good gas mileage, low interior noise, and no turbo lag.

Do you know if yours was the 14 row, for sure?

What an awesome price it went for! I'm guessing you could just bolt on the twin turbo headers if you wanted, intercooler, and probably could run larger injectors after adding the intercooler to get more boost. Think you'd need to modify the steering setup to clear the turbo? Wish I would have gotten that kind of deal on my 7m-gte. I spent $800 + $200 for the tranny, and then had to buy a starter and alternator.

Been a while since I've owned a 300ZX, but I think the fuseable links are near the battery, next to some relays. Anyways, make sure that current can flow through them, also there might be a fuseable link at the starter, but could be wrong. Hope it's something simple to fix, 300ZX's have enough electrical problems inherantly to begin with I'm sure you're not the first person to do this so hopefully someone else will speak up. Fill us in after you get it fixed.

It's probably sized about right for you, but the specs would help a bunch. If you turned up the boost you'd have more back presure than you'd like.