Tony240ZT

I have a set of 370cc/min installed in my car right now. I think they are a little too large for me for my L24 turbo setup. If you want I'd like to talk to you about trading. I could really use an adjustable fpr, if you would consider selling let me know. The injectors are still installed in my car, car runs well, and are in good condition. Are the ones you have OEM ones? Are they in good condition?

Was looking around on ebay and happened to see this throttle body. I don't know the owner, but the throttle body looks nice. This is the same type I have bolted up on my l24et engine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6764&item=2409106607&rd=1 Here is a page I made a while back with a little info on bolting it up to your stock FI intake manifold: http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/engine/mtb.html

Yeah, things are tough... Going to have to sell off my orange turbo 240z, and my `81 280zx NA to get started back on this project. Hopefully they will sell well.. Looks like turbo conversion 240z's are selling well on ebay right now. Orange car is getting some paint, some new rings, and carpet. Seats have been recovered, turbo is rebuilt, and new tires on a set of 6 spoke 14" rims.. Hopefully should have it set in a couple months.

Good clamps will probably be $6-$7 a peice I'm guessing.. Yeah, I feel the same way.

Think - using a complete 300zx na ecu/harness/censors, etc.. After the components are in place it's all wiring.

Definately must haves.. Also the JTR book should be in your collection if it's not already. I'm not doing a v8 swap, but it has been helpfull.. Other books in my collection related are the SU book from when I was stock, also have a book on restoring z cars, good details. Have a book on Nitrous, and a book on power in general where an old timer nascar/indy car engine builder tells you it's all about the rod length, not much on turboing even though most of the indy cars he built were forced induction. Take time and check out the pictures of the 280zx turbo cars in the build your nissan ohc book, trace the plubing. Very different styling than you see on street cars.

Hey guys, I'm not happy with my engine/tranny mounts. I'm going to redo them, I thought about asking the v8 guys about their ideas, but they have everything all nicely drawn out for them in the JTR book. What are some techniques used to make sure you get your tranny lined up so that the drive line will be strait with the diff? I don't have a drive line fabbed up yet because I'm not sure of the exact length yet. I've got good ideas on how to make the mounts themselves, just more concerned about lining things up well. Thanks for any of your input!

Just swap the manifolds over. I've never messed with turbo tom's setup personally, but the two blocks are basicly the same. The L28et has an oil drain hole on the pan. I believe the later model heads have holes drilled for the old carb manifolds to bolt up, and the exhaust manifold bolts are in the same spot. If you get an L28et take our your old distributor shaft and drop it into the new engine, since they have slightly different teeth. That requires unbolting the oil pump. Then drop your current distributor into the new engine. Should be pretty strait foward.

I'm just an odd ball Let me know if you have any questions, just drove the strange car back from a place out in the middle of no where 20 miles away from home where I broke the auto tranny. Took the new tranny out to the car and did it on the side of the road, not exactly fun. Seems like I didn't forget too many bolts since I'm here now.

I think most of them sold out of California didn't have the EGR.

The stand alone EFI/Ignition system I have from Wolf3D came complete with color coated wires, and clear instructions. The system was $1500 shipped to work with my engine. There are many other systems at different price ranges that would be as simple to install. Trying to mess with the wiring mess of the stock supra efi system is just not worth the trouble. I have some of the systems that I have heard about on my link's page off of my web page.

How does the RB20DET swap in a lot easier? As far as I can see it's the same job, engine mounts, tranny mount, drive line, exhaust, intercooler, plumbing, efi, etc. The oil pan on the 7m fits in fine, and it doesn't interfear with the steering assembly. I think the attraction to the 7M is the buy in price, and then the fact that it responds to bolt ons really well due to the fact that the OEM parts around the engine were limiting. The stock turbo is far under sized, and with that replaced 400hp on stock internals is easily obtained with added fuel, and by replacing the really inefficient stock intercooler. Once I get to point where I want serious power simply buy a used TRD head for $1500 (comes with over sized valves, ported, cams, and sometime adjustable cam gears), throw some forged internals in and off you go (upgrade clutch, again). The stock 5 speed tranny is very strong as well. With a metal head gasket, ARP head bolts things are pretty solid. I've heard of the issues with bearings being spun, but I've heard of mostly high mileage engines doing it. The L28ET is without a doubt very potent, still it's SOHC, and old technology on flow design. I first started building a L28ET for my car, planned on having it bored and stroked out to 3.1L, with a lot of head work, but I just could not afford the investment to do so. How much are the RB20DET's with tranny?

Where can I purchase velocity stacks for an okay deal? Has anyone found a creative alternative than buying them new from a performance shop? Possibly forming them out of fiberglass? I'm sitting here looking at a carbon fiber 90 degree ram tube on http://www.speed-technology.com/ I can't find a price, but I'm betting these are more than $30 a peice. If I could take a chunk of that craft stiff spunge stuff that you stick floweres into, form the inner part of the ram tube fiber glass it up, put flanges on the bottom to bolt it up then I could probably have them for pretty cheap, if I sit down, take the time to do it. If I can get a set of aluminum velocity stacks ready to weld in for $60 or so I'd probably go for it though.

No fun, it's nearly stock.. I've seen this one before.. Actually I'm talking with a guy that's just put a 7m into his z car. He has the mounts done, car's not running yet.. I need to sell some cars so I can finish up my swap. Found a source for a t04 .68 A/R turbine housing for my P trim wheel for $100, think I'll bite. Then a bit more welding.. Talking to another guy that says he wants to put a NA 2jz, or a 1jz into his car for road racing. Guy sounds like he's leaning towards the vvti engines. Have had LOTs of people saying they'll do the swap, but only these other 2 guys actually really making some efforts. After a few of us get our cars finished up and have some figures I'm sure there will be many followers though. Just shipped some parts of to get powder coated, so should look clean too.

The EGR setup is not needed if you don't plan on using EGR. Read up on it a bit so you know what you plan to disconnect. There are arguments to keep it, but as far as I can see it goes against a lot of the work that we do in making cool charged air. The plus side is, is that you get a more complete burn. You can remove the valving, and then plug it with a pipe plug, or source out a non EGR intake manifold, such as the 280z federal regulation type, or a Japanese spec 280zx manifold. I don't remember seeing any dropping resistors in the efi wiring diagram, and did not need to use any on my setup. There should be lists of sensors that need to be hooked up, I think I've helped complete a list before.. Let me see if I can think of the needed items off the top of my head: Sensors/components that are needed: The computer (duh) Crank angle sensor for `81 setup/Distributor Fuel injectors Air flow meter head temp sensor coil igniter -grounded (the little black deal on the side of the coil holder) coil throttle possition sensor (car may run without this) O2 sensor (car may run without it) Knock sensor (not needed to get car running, leave disconnected if yours is shorted) Also you may use the idle controle unit and the valving that goes along with it, but this is not necessary. It will help raise idle at a cold start, and will raise idle if the A/C compressor is switched on. My car starts on a cold day with no problems, but in CA it really doesn't get that cold. You may also hook up the fuel pump so that it is modulated by the ECU, but this too is optional. Some people believe there is a water temp sensor for the efi system, but there isn't. There isn't a speed sensor that effects the efi system in anyways. The efi system does not communicate with the transmission in anyway. The transmission inhibitor switch is part of the chassis harness, not the efi harness. Feel free to add anything in, this is off the top of my head without looking at the books.

The turbo in my orange car was not ballanced, but I did rebuild it. I changed out the t3 compressor wheel with a V trim t04 copmressor wheel. The turbo runs real nice, and I have over 10k miles on it. I've checked it out a couple times by hand and it still feels like it did after the rebuild.. I'm sure the whole assembly balance is a nice thing, but considering the price of having them do it, and the money you save just bolting the parts together yourself you could probably have the money to get that larger turbo you've always wanted, or save up for a BB setup

Also a very warn engine will show less vacuum. My engine used to suck at 20Hg, and now it's only like 12Hg with a less than stable idle at around 700rpm or so. I've got new rings in hand. Hopefully the pistons aren't bad now

My orange car still has it's 2.4L bottom end. I tried turboing with the E88 head, but couldn't run very much boost. Have to replace the rings now because of some of the damage done in doing that. Also the E88 doesn't have EFI manifold mounting holes, but there is an E88 off of a maxima that does. Now the car runs with a P90 head, turbo head bolts, turbo oil pump, L28 head gasket. Also bolted on a t3/t4 turbo (water cooled), modified starion FMIC. I'm running 370cc/min injectors with an `83 280zx turbo efi system, runs a bit rich.. Just busted my stock auto tranny, and have another one ready to drop in. It makes enough power to push you back in your seat well.. Ultimately the turbo pistons are the better choice because of how the rings are possitioned. The little L24 revs damn fast now, the 65mm throttle body helped that out quite a bit I think. After I get the new tranny in I'll have to get a 1/4 mile time for you. I'd be happy with mid to high 13's with 15psi.

I've heard of some places using over sized bushings on a machined down shaft. Probably not cheap to have done. Take it apart and have a look at the shaft and how much it's warn. You may be able to throw a new set of bushings and seals in and have it run for another 20k miles, who knows. If the wheels have hit the housings then don't bother trying to rebuilt.

Not in bay area, probably 300 miles or so south of you, but I would be willing to help you out if there were any chance the car could visit me

Well, drove the car around. Car drove pretty okay, but really lacked the power that I thought the car would have. I've driven another one around before with the stiffer suspention, I prefer the softer setup. There were a lot of little flaws that really bugged me, and I just had to turn it down. I really like the rx7, only think I could be happy if it had more go though. The thought of busting an apex seal is a lot of stress to handle though. The 7m-gte should make power much easier with a LOT more low end power. I've got to remount the engine, it's too low. I wonder if I can use the frame rails for mounting the engine, that way I could install an A/C compressor on the engine, which is something I was looking for. Also car needs better brakes, rear disks would probably help. I'm afraid of breaking the rear end, and tweaking the frame with the power, but I guess I'll just take it slow until I get a roll cage built in. Also my tires in the back aren't very wide, but I guess with money anything can be done, and hopefully I can fit a 3" pipe under the car. Anyone know how much it would cost me to have the 3mm apex seal job done? The whole maching of the rotor, and a minor port job? That would probably make me happier about one of the cars.

Yeah, as far as bolt ons.. I was thinking exhaust and intercooler/intake as being the first things. I've seen some people mount front mounts with the stock air dam, but have heard it's not easy. Is it just far easier to go with a different air dam if you're wanting to use a FMIC? Also, this car has an automatic transmission. Are they fairly strong trannies? Stronger than the rear end that seems to only be able to take about 350hp or so? What are some of the first things to do to fight the over heating issues? And is there a sure way to tell if the water jacket O-ring needs to be replaced? Car appears to be stock, it's the touring car with the Boss stereo system, and sun roof, also has mud flaps, but no wing, no strut braces, and I believe it has the softer suspention. Maybe over the span of this year it will have a single turbo setup with my Wolf3D stand alone EMS.. Which means I'll be selling off my silver 240 for this car, but I've been wanting a 3rd gen rx7 for a while, so it's worth it to me.

Just wondering if any of you guys were rx7 peoples. I'm thinking about getting an `93 with 68K miles. Car seems pretty solid. Would like to know what the best bang for the buck is.

Think I'm going with a 280zx NA tranny with a 6 month warranty.. May do do it right some other time, but I want to be done by wednesday. Thanks for all your suggestions.

I don't think the inhibitor switch is part of the engine wiring harness, but more so the chassis harness. If you have the wires in question then just put them together to complete the curcuit.. Starter stuff shouldn't be any different than what you had before.. Auto or manual trannies should have the same harness.