Bigdeezs

ahh...thank you for the clarification

Wouldnt the center of the spindle need to be at least half the tire diameter from the top of the flare...like about 13 inches or so? And the spindle moves up and down in relation to the flare so is that measurement at ride height, compressed or full droop? It looks like you have the jack under the control arm in the pic...if you raise it by itself doesn't that compress the suspension more than static ride height before the car begins to lift off the jackstands?

holy smoke! Looks like that tire is going to be all over that flare under compression. Maybe bump the ride height up a lil? Looks like thehelix112 is much higher than you...hmmmm

looking good...I'll be doing this as soon as I finish installing my Bilsteins /strut sectioning (just completed fronts yesterday)...Also planning on running the 275s all around. Updates?

http://home.thegrid.net/~ffr4776/SB100_Registration.pdf ...dunno the accuracy of that but damn interesting...and yup baseline smog required apparently.

I dont think kit cars here need a smog/referee check either as long as you register it as "resembling" the model year closest to the body instead of the engine.

I got mine with 1.75 and 1.25 dies from here: http://www.tjdieselperformance.com/servlet/the-AFFORDABLE-BENDER-------TUBING-BENDER/Categories cost me $400 cash (picked up in person). Built my NHRA 5 point cage with it and it doesn't "crush bend" or put any kinks in the tubing.

John I didnt visualize what you said about spring load vs shock load until I was reading another post...

Thanks for the response John I was thinking about butting one of these hats directly against the lower portion of the camber plate (possibly securing it there) These hats will likely need some modification. I would prefer to minimize the loads on these spherical bearings as I'm sure they are of the lowest quality based on the price. The 2.5" needle bearings would do just as you said. But I'm using them more in place of the needle bearing that many camber plate manufacturers place above the hat, that also allow the spindle/hub assembly to articulate freely.

I'm contemplating using these plates (they will have to be trimmed and drilled to fit): http://www.ebay.com/itm/120827338291?item=120827338291&viewitem=&vxp=mtr#ht_1063wt_1038 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/380402436863?item=380402436863&viewitem=&vxp=mtr#ht_3019wt_804 I want to use Bilsteins F4-P30-0032-M1 like many others seem to have been able to do. I think I can run these 2.5" ID coil spring bearings http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-7888-109 to eat up the load so the spherical bearing doesn't have to. I cant seem to think of a good reason not use this bearing setup in place of an upper hat-to-lower camber plate needle bearing. Any thoughts?

The face of madness haha

well I just tried the MSA weatherstrip kit and the precision door seals it came with still suck. I bought the kit in 2011 after they finally started selling them again. Its a 1975 280Z and the doors wont shut correctly. The seals are still being made too thick. The inner hatch seal also causes the decklid to bulge slightly when shut...ugh.

Only took you about 4 months to get it on the road...I'm pretty sure this would have been something that would have not moved for a year or more for me. Excellent work.

Who put that big hole in the hood of that G-nose Datsun?

I've gotten around that number twice...once on a dyno dynamics portable dyno at MSA's show in 2010 (http://motorsportauto.com/events/2010/images/galleries/dyno/Dyno-top-five.pdf its at the bottom) the other was on a Dynapack...the one where you take the wheels off and got 426 in 2008 (http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/timeslip/dyno-2363-1267318181.jpg)

I trapped 122MPH at Fontana (about 1400 ft elevation and temp~ mid 70s low 80s) in my 75 and make around 420 wheel. Mine has some lightening (bumpers, interior, etc.)and weighs 2500-2600 and 2800 with me in it.

good lord..looks like you'll be on the road and legal in just weeks!

A friend of mine sold his very basic LS1 swapped 260z for 10k about 2 years ago. It really depends on the condition of the car and the cleanliness of the swap.

I found this place while looking for mine... http://www.up22.com/falcongto.htm#DZ-101 got my hood for 250 plus free shipping since I'm in Socal. Right after I bought my hood they upped the minimum purchase p[price for free shipping to Socal.

I've personally had issues with the pickup tube o-ring not seating correctly causing issues like this but it didnt go from working normally to this. It was immediately after installation.

possibly a spun or damaged bearing(s) bleeding off pressure at low oil pump speed...but overcomes the loss at higher speeds? Hopefully not . Also I would try a mechanical pressure gauge to rule out the gauge, sender or wiring isn't having any issues.

So with your modded Ford mounts...will they allow the LS to just bolt right up to the existing engine mount points? Did you have any trouble welding them (like melting poly material)? I dont envy those panel installs...looks like one hell of a time consuming *****...but damn its looking good!

true car guy statement

Are those mustang brakes? what size is the rotor? Looking good BTW!

lookin good...these things come ready for ABS? Looks like a reluctor wheel in there behind the hub.