Teekass

I thought the Z sending unit was from 73-10 ohms (empty-full)? I'm asking more than anything. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=atm%2D4815&searchinresults=false&N=+115 Hey Pop N Wood, you're pretty savvy with electronics, do you (or anyone else) think the above gauge will work correctly? It looks like a good fit to me.

Hey Pound, have you seen this one? http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=2616&sid=7

Wow, so the 5" gauges fit....they look great. Nice steering wheel too, btw. My car will be a straight line car, but it will still have a Momo steering wheel.....can't beat the way they feel, can ya?

I'm considering these, but Autometer has a full line of 3 3/8" gauges, that I think will fit pretty well. http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugelist.aspx?sid=3&opid=5&szid=6

I know I most likely put this in the wrong forum, but my thought was that the Chevy V8Z adapter flange caused the clearance issue so I put it in the Chevy V8Z forum.

My JTR differential flange adapter was hitting my sway bar, so I made some brackets to move the sway bar down an inch and a half. Here are the pictures, if anyone is interested: Factory position v/s Lowered position: Factory mounting bracket: Lowering Brackets: 1 3/4" wide x 3 1/2" long pieces of 3/16" plate. Then made two gussets from 3/16" plate. In hindsight, 2" wide (as opposed to 1 3/4") would have been better, because the factory bracket is 1 3/4" wide, so you have to line it up just right to weld it. Cutting-Torched the factory brackets: (btw, the torch works great for removing the undercoating for later welding). Squared up the factory brackets on a bench grinder, so they would lay flat on the brackets, then put them back on the sway bar. Welded in the lowering brackets: Welded the factory mounts to the lowering mounts: Plenty of room now, and the picture is deceiving.....the bottom of the sway bar is NOT lower than the cross member, in fact it's even with it.

If it were possible to put the driveshaft over the diff, then backward until it would go into the transmission I would have done that, but I still would not want my slip yoke all the way into the transmission (see #2 below). The slip yoke is 4" long, and you can see from the pictures there is nowhere to get 4" past the diff flange. As far as the driveshaft coming out while driving, the yoke is still 3 1/8" into the transmission which is plenty to keep it in, and as far as strength, there's more spline contact than the axle/carrier of a Ford 9". Pulling the yoke out 3/4" - 1" is standard, for 2 reasons. Hit the second choice "How much slip travel should I have?" http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/faq.html#How%20much%20slip%20travel%20should%20I%20have 1 - On a U-bolt style universal, you have to be able to come over the ears on the rear mount, then back to where the u-joint sits in place. 2 - You have to allow for forward movement of the driveshaft as the pinion moves upward from torque (especially in leaf spring style cars without ladder bars). I've seen broken transmissions and bellhousings from this. I know these don't really apply in my case since I don't have a U-bolt style universal, nor do I expect my rear to move much but if it does, I should have enough slip travel that it doesn't destroy my transmission. Oh yeah, if anybody noticed how low my sway bar is, it's because I just made some mounts that moved it down 1 1/2" because it was hitting the U-joint flange.

Hey Lifer, I didn't find this in any post, but I really lucked out when I had my driveshaft made last week......The posts I read said to measure from the center of the transmission yoke (with it ALL the way into the transmisison) to the center of the rear adapter flange (bolted to the rear diff), then subtract 3/4". My local driveshaft guy said to measure the same way, but subtract 1". This is the part where I got lucky......I figured I'd split the difference and subtract 7/8". When I installed the new driveshaft, it BARELY squeezed in front of the rear sway bar. I have to put quite a bit of pressure on it to get it by, to the point where I don't think it would've made it if I had only subtracted 3/4".....and what a PITA it would be to have to drop the swaybar to install/remove the driveshaft. Anyway, the reason I'm making this post is to recommend putting a speed square on the diff flange (without the adapter flange bolted on) and measure how far it is to the front of the sway bar.......because this is how far into the transmission the driveshaft must go, to clear the sway bar. Once you know this distance, you can get an idea if 3/4" will be enough....it seems it is enough for most people, but wouldn't have been for me.

Are you losing any other electrical items when the fuel pumps quits running? I don't have a schematic in front of me, but was wondering if the fuseable link that supplies current to the fuel pump had a loose connection, and was intermittently quitting. If that was the case, you would also lose whatever fuse panel items that fuseable link supplied power to. The fact that it always quits at the same time (during higway driving at constant speed ) leads me to believe it's something else though.....sorry, but I'm out of ideas.

Sweet!

Well if anyone is curious, I'm posting my flexplate results. I bought a new TCI flexplate #399273 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TCI%2D399273&autoview=sku and it wouldn't even bolt up without hitting the starter bendix. I called TCI, and we came to the conclusion that my flywheel was mis-boxed, so the one I had wasn't the one I needed. I called Summit, and they sent me another one (while I had them on the phone, I also ordered a Summit one #SUM-G100SFI http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DG100SFI&autoview=sku ). After both the TCI and Summit Flexplates came, I tried to bolt on the TCI one and the same thing happened......it hit the starter gear. I then tried the Summit one, and it bolted up with no problem. As far as the wobble goes, the new Summit flywheel wobbled quite a bit without the transmission in place. Once I got the transmission mounted, and the flexplate bolted to the converter, the wobble went away......Mabye thats why they call it a FLEXplate . Anyway, I'm not suggesting anything bad about the TCI flexplate. I just wanted to point out that there was about 1/8th inch difference in starter clearance between the two. I have a Hitachi (or Tilton) style mini-starter, maybe thats why the Summit one was a better fit?

Have you talked to Brodix about repairing them (or reshaping the combustion chambers)? You can ship them to Brodix, and they will give you a price quote with no obligation. Yes it might cost a bit of money to repair them, but not using them at all would cause you to have a $3,000+ spare short block collecitng dust in the corner. Also, I would hate to see you not get exactly what you want in your engine, especially since you've been so patient thus far with the machine shops, bearings, pistons, etc....kudos for the patience, by the way.

Speed: 702 mph Vehicle: Boeing 737-700 Engines: (2) CFM56-7B 24,000 pounds of thrust each Tire Size: hmm....bout 4 feet tall? Ratio: Still in 1st gear! Oh wait, he said "hybrid z's top speed" sorry. Well I got my bone stock 77 up to 60 then drove straight into the garage and pulled the engine and tranny. Still under construction.

LS1, do you have any pics of your exhaust? I want dual 3" also, and am considering dumping them in front of the rear. Thanks,

I hate to go back on what I said in post #12, but I agree with what you said. As I free up circuits while getting rid of unnecessary stuff, I'm staring to think that the only real issue I have with the system is the fuse panel....(and mabye the relays when it comes time to replace them).