Teekass

Backfire through the carb (when setting the timing for the first time) is sometimes an indication of too much timing advance. Try rotating the distributor clockwise about 1/2 the distance between 2 plug wires on top of the distributor (or more if needed).....If you do this while trying to start the engine, the vacuum advance hookup part makes a great shock-free handle.

Thanks alot, I didn't know that. As the fuel pressure raises one psi, the fuel level in the bowl raises 1/32 of an inch, but I know it reaches a point where it can't control the fuel level. The only strength the float has to shut off the inflow of fuel is the bouyancy of the float itself. As the fuel pressure increases, there comes a time when the pressure of the fuel coming into the bowl is too great for the float to close the valve (or said more accurately...it cant push the needle into the seat hard enough to stop the inflow of fuel). When this happens, the bowl gets pressurized and basically the fuel pump pushes fuel through the bowl, jets and straight out of the boosters. Thats what I was trying to rule out when I recommended he double check the fuel pressure. Sounds like a good manual you have there......what is it called? I'm always up for buying good manuals.

Before you do what I wrote below, try what I posted above about removing the fuel pump and pressure from the equation. It's quick, and will tell you if the problem is in the fuel system. If the engine ran fine for a bit, then quit, try checking the float levels: To check the float levels, use a flathead screwdriver and remove the screws (one per bowl) from the side of the bowls (passenger side). With the engine running, the fuel should be right below the bottom of the hole where the screw fits....you should have to shake the car to get fuel to seep from the hole. Since you can't keep the engine running long enough to set the levels, you'll have to do this a little differently. Turn on the fuel pump, and see where the fuel level is. If it's running out of the hole, the level is too high. If there is no fuel coming from the hole, but when you bump the fender, fuel does runs out of the hole, then its just right. If you bump the fender, and no fuel seeps out of the hole, the level is too low. (I'm hoping it's too high, and the root of your problem). If it's too high (this is going to be a little messy)...Use a big flat bladed screwdriver to loosen the set screw on the end of the bowl (its on top of the bowl, right above where the fuel line comes in, and it sits on top of a hex nut). Then use a 5/8" (I think) wrench and screw the hex nut clockwise until the fuel stops running out of the hole. Re-tighten the set screw using the flathead screwdriver. If it's too low, do the same but turn the hex nut counter clockwise until fuel seeps out of the hole, then turn a tad clockwise until it stops seeping out. And obviously, put the bowl screws back in when you are done setting the levels. Good Luck!

Heres an idea that will tell you if its a float problem.... Pressurize the fuel system, for 30 seconds or so (long enough to fill the bowls with fuel)......while you're doing that, look down the throat of the carb. and make sure fuel isn't dripping from the boosters. Then disconnect the fuel pump, and try to start the engine WITHOUT the fuel pump ever coming on (do whatever it takes to make sure the fuel pump never comes on). If the engine runs fine for 20 seconds or so, then quits (because the primary bowl ran out of fuel), then it most likely is a float level, stuck float, or fuel pressure problem.

Just a guess, but it sounds like it may be running too rich? You have a new Holley Double Pumper on there, right? First thing I would do is double check the fuel pressure....should be between 4 and 7 psi. Too high of a pressure could overpower the float, and cause fuel to end up dumping directly into the intake (through the boosters).....could be the fuel that you're smelling. Next thing, take the handle end of a screwdriver (or the like), and tap the float set screw on the end of the bowls (both the front and rear). I know this sounds crazy, but the new float may be sticking open, or there may be a piece of debris holding it open. Tap it in an attempt to free up the float, so that it can shut off the fuel going into it. After tapping both of them a dozen times or so, try to start the engine again while tapping them some more. If that doesn't work, check the float levels....they may be set too high. Are you familiar with checking and setting the float levels? If that doesn't work, put another carb on the engine that you know runs well.

Well said....my thoughts exactly. To me, factory horsepower is irrelevant....its just a starting point (which I intend to go well beyond, lol).

LS1, I may be misunderstanding your statement. Do you really mean that GenIII/IV series are better "FACTORY" motors (as in unmodified)? I would buy that argument. But to say that they have more HP potential than a GEN I.....I'm not so sure. If someone had an unlimited budget, and built a Gen 1 sbc and a Gen III/IV, I'd bet my house that the difference in dyno numbers would be immaterial.

This isn't my area of expertise, but I tell you what little amount I know. All of the vacuum is created between the throat of the carb and the intake valve (after the intake valve opens, and the piston is travelling down the cylinder). As far as oil pressure, I'm not going to even act like I know the exact route, but it starts at the oil pump and eventully goes through the crank, oil galley, lifters, up through the push rods onto the rocker arms, and then drains back down (and it obviously runs across the cam, timing chain, etc also). So if you think about it that way, the vacuum system, and the pressurized areas of the oil system are never connected. So as far as oil pressure blowing out the holes, it shouldn't happen....famous last words, right, lol. Also, as the pistons go down, they create positive pressure below them due to the compression of the air below them (and blow-by from the top side of the piston). This pressure builds in the crankcase (oil pan), then works its way up the inside of the block and is vented through the valve covers (along with exhaust gases that work their way between the exhaust valve stem and a worn out valve guide). If this pressure isn't vented quicky enough, I've heard you can have gaskets start to leak (oil pan, front or rear intake seal, etc.) The pcv valve uses vacuum to suck the pressure from the crankcase to prevent this (along with being environmentally friendly).

LOL....everything was kinky back in high school:flamedevi . As far as the vacuum for your fuel pressure regulator goes, don't take my word for the gospel. Maybe someone like grumpyvette will respond because honestly, I don't know if all the vacuum sources are all the same quality. Example: intake vacuum may be a better source than the ones on the base of the carb?.....I honestly don't know. I'm sure your fuel pressure gauge will work on both the intake and the carb, but is one a better choice?......I'm not sure.

I think the other port on the base plate of the carb was connected to a pcv valve on one of the valve covers. Theres something about sucking piston blow-by back into the intake that gives me the creeps.

correct....they are both vacuum sources, so they would just be sucking against one another. Kinda reminds me of a date I was once on .

Sorry to answer your question twice, but I think it will make more sense if I say this. All of the ports on the carb CREATE vacuum (not USE vacuum). So if the only items on your car that need vacuum are your distributor (which NEEDS to be connected to the metered source on the metering block) and your brake booster (take your pick between the one on the front of the carb, and the one on the back), then you have to plug the other one (and any other ones on your intake), so they don't suck air.

The one on the passenger side (about half way up the metering block) is for metered vacuum. Use this one for the vacuum advance on the HEI. The other two ports are ported vacuum, so they would be used for brake booster, and other items that required a ported vacuum source. I've always used the rear one for the brake booster, and plugged the front one. Hope this helps, Chris

Congrats on the Pinnacle job. I'm a pilot myself (TCAS is where my screen name comes from). Good luck during ground school and sims. Chris

Now thats funny!

http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=2249&stc=1&d=1170264517 How do you check/set the rear diff fluid level? The service manual doesn't say....it mentions all the pinion and ring gear patterns, etc. etc. but not the simple question of how to check and set the fluid level. My guess is the level should be right up to the #1 plug.......but I don't want to go on a guess. Also, what fluid do you guys use? Thanks in advance, Chris

Great informative post. That's just what I needed, a complete setup that fits, performs, and you're happy with. Thanks alot. I put the links below for other readers: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D380325&N=700+0&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX%2D180&N=700+0&autoview=sku https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Pages/Parts_DAT-Radiator-Mount.html Oh yeah, I do need one more favor. I'll be in Denver tomorrow, can you make sure all the snow stays down in "The Springs?":2thumbs: Thanks again, Chris

Hey Larry, could you post a link to the radiator that you use (I assume the same one as Jason....Summit 2 row?) The one I see that looks close to being the right size is the SUM-380325? I'm checking local junk yards for the Taurus 2-speed fan that I've read so much about, but no luck yet.......I assume the one I want is 1990 and newer? Is that correct? Thanks alot, Chris

Did you use one of Howe's "Drop-In" Radiators (like the one shown here for the 75-78 Datsun 280Z http://www.howeracing.com/Radiators/Index-Radiators-Table5.htm ) or did you have one custom made?

Hey Forces, Did you ever get your starter problem fixed? If so, are you pleased with your starter? I've never used a Nippendenso style starter, but am considering getting the exact one you have. Your last post sounded as if you didn't think it was going to work very well. Thanks, Chris

Very true. It's not the price of the car that I'm worried about, though. It's the bodily injury and property damage to the people in the other car/cars (if the wreck was my fault). The insurance company has to honor those amounts in full. And you know Murphy's law....you won't run into the back of an old beat up vw beetle....it will be a row of limited edition Mercedes 500SL's driven by Injury Plaintiff Attorneys .

The part # is 2147 for the painted, and 2147-1 for the ceramic coated. Summit is almost $150.00 cheaper than Jeg's on the ceramic coated (which I just ordered). I couldn't find the painted version on Summit's website. If you're considering buying some and want the painted, it might be worth calling Summit to see if they carry them since they are so much cheaper than Jegs (on the ceramic). http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=hok-2147-1hkr http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_744807_-1_10437 Scroll down to "Nissan" Chris

Have you checked the flywheel for cracked teeth? I had a similar problem a couple years ago, caused by a bad spot on the flexplate. One tooth was broken about halfway down the length of the tooth. It wasn't much, but it was enough to cause the bendix to slip. The engine would turn over fine, until it got to that tooth, then it would make a grinding sound. It progressively got worse, to the point where it would not engage at all on that part of the flexplate.

I have Hagerty on my 77, it's full coverage (I don't have all the numbers memorized, but it's NOT "Liability Only"), and it costs $105.00 per YEAR. Just like Savage42 said, it must not be a daily driver, and garage kept....but I've always wondered.......how would they know? Oh yeah, they never asked about engine size, mods, etc....just VIN#.