Teekass

With the engine running, make sure you're getting at least +12volts at the distributor. HEI's can operate poorly when they don't get enough current? Are the spark plugs in good shape?

88 bucks, ouch! Is there a factory application of them?....that you could find in a junk yard?

Thats beyond the extent of my electrical knowledge . I've read posts by Pop N Wood and others who talked about formulas to get the sending unit ohms closer to what the gauge needed.....I'll try to dig them up. Does your gauge manufacturer make a 73-10 ohm fuel gauge? I can't recommend you get another gauge just yet though because mine hasn't worked correctly, but if rebuilding the sending unit fixes my problem then getting another fuel gauge may be easier for you than doing the resistor thing. My gauge worked correctly at empty and full, it just didn't work well in between the two. I should have it back the first of next week, and I'll post my findings.

I don't know anything about the adapters.....the post I made is pretty much all I know on the subject, LOL. I'm sure the guys at Speedometer World can answer your question though. Also, if you tell them what color your stripped out gear was, I think they can tell you how many teeth it was so you can get your speedo reading correctly again. Glad I could help, even though it wasn't much.

This picture is from a 700R4, but it's close enough to a TH350 to explain it. The inner part of the speedometer cable is square....you know, the part that you turned with the drill. It goes into a square piece of plastic in the transmission (where the white arrow is).....this square piece is the long end of the Driven gear (the purple thing in the picture below), and it can "round-out" inside. When this happens, it can no longer turn the speedometer cable. This is normally what happens when a speedometer cable binds, as the gear keeps spinning, but the speedometer cable doesn't turn. What I would do is replace the Housing and Driven gear assembly. It's very easy to replace. All you do is remove that one bolt you see (to the right of the speedo gear housing in top picture), remove the plate under it, and pull the housing out....might have to pry it a bit with a screwdriver. The reason I would replace the Housing also (as opposed to only replacing the gear), is they're cheap and they come with a new O-ring. I get all my speedometer stuff from these guys http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm . The 3 items to get are: 1 - A Driven gear with the same number of teeth as whats in your transmission now. Part#68X. 2 - A new Housing (also called a Bullet). Part #66XX 3 - A new Housing Retainer. Part#68R I bet this would fix your problem. A less likely possibility is that your gears are stripped. If so, hopefully it's the Driven gear that's damaged, not the Drive gear (the Drive gear is the green one mounted on the output shaft in the top picture), because to replace it you have to remove the tail housing from the transmission....It's not that big of a deal, there are just 4 bolts holding the tail housing on, but it does require more work. Oh yeah, and while you have the tail housing off, replace the rear seal. Hopefully, this isn't your case, so when you pull out your speedometer gear housing, look inside the transmission and see if your Drive gear looks ok. If it's damaged, it will be hard to determine how many teeth are on it from just looking inside the little hole that the gear housing came out of. In that case, I would call the guys at the link above, and after answering a few questions (rear gear ratio, and tire size) they will tell you what Drive and Driven gears you need: Then buy: 1 - The 3 items from the picture above. 2 - 2 or 3 (because you might break a few figuring out how to get it on) Drive gear clips. TH350 5/16" is all it says on the web site (no part#). 3 - Drive gear. Part#68X2 Good Luck!

Yeah, no kidding about the TCAS. In 2 1/2 years at Southwest, I've only gotten 2 TCAS RA's. It's pretty scary when the airplane yells "CLIMB CLIMB!" or "DESCEND DESCEND!" and you don't see the other airplane. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about with those idiots flying VFR through your active MOA's. I'll bet your job does get hectic when the MOA's go hot......thunderstorms.......IFR traffic wanting deviations......fighter doing their thing...... Have a cold one on me , I don't see how you do it. I flew for Air Midwest from June 99 to Jan 05, so it looks like I just barely missed you. They quit flying in Florida in Jan 05. Southest flies to 63 cities, but the closest to PFN are MCO, TPA, JAX, BHM, JAN and MSY. What year Z do you have, and what have you done to it? It looks very clean on your Avatar.

I think the third wire is for the Low Fuel warning light.

Air Traffic Controller, that's awesome....guess you know what my screen name means then (TCAS). Cool, maybe I've talked to you on VHF freq before? I use to fly for Air Midwest (US Airways Express) throughout the panhandle, and talked to Tyndall 4 days a week.....flying around Whiskey 470, Carabelle and Echo MOA's.... CLRRK, CRESS, TERES, HEVVN intersections, and all that stuff over there. I fly for Southwest Airlines now, so when I get in that area we're already talking to the high sector .

I live in Panama City, which is 1 hour east of Eglin AFB, and just got my V8Z running. Send me a PM when you get over.

The field and sense wire are 2 different wires. The field wire is the one closest to the positive output stud on the back of the alternator, and should be connected to a switched hot battery source (but not the lead to the distributor, otherwise the engine will not cut off with the ignition switch......guess how I know that, LOL). The sense wire is the one furthest from the output stud, and should be wired just as Bartman said......If you don't have an alternator light, I would connect it to the positive battery post as you mentioned. I've read somewhere that you don't have to connect the field wire to anything. After starting the engine, you might have to rev to 3,000 rpms or so to excite the alternator. I don't know that first hand, but I kinda like the sound of NOT having to do that. And Bartman, thanks for explaining how the alternator light works. I thought that was how you hooked it up, but never really understood how it worked.....makes sense (pardon the pun) now.

I'm sending my sending unit to http://www.tristarrradiator.com/Untitled-8.html to have it rebuilt and hopefully make it measure more accurately throughout its range (it seems to work correctly empty and full, just not linear between the two). I talked to the owner Dan, who said the charges to rebuild a sending unit are normally around $100.00. He also said sending units can be adjusted a bit, but not to whatever value you want. I measured my sending unit, and it was 88 empty and 10 full. The fuel gauge I have is 73 empty and 10 full. He thought mine were probably close enough to be calibrated to work together. What are the ohm measurements of your sending unit, and are they close to 240-33? I'll post my findings as soon as I get my sending unit back.

Your welcome, I'm glad I could help. I love my th350. It has a manual valve body in it, so its fun to drive and shifts really well. With the 3.54 rear end ratio, it's not a very practical highway car (I know that's not what you're looking for, but I wanted to warn you anyway), but thats ok with me, since I just want it be be 1/4 mile straight line type car....As far as RPM's at highway speeds, I wouldn't be able to say. I have an 8 inch nitrous converter thats pretty loose, so I don't see much under 2,500. I'm sure someone else could tell you though. How much did I spend on parts, hmmm.... I've taken my time, and bought exactly what I wanted whenever I saved the money. I could've done it cheaper, but I didn't want to do it that way. I already had the long block assembly, carburetor, converter and transmission......so not including the cost of them, I'd say I've spent around 6 grand on the car. This includes things that you might not need though: suspension bushings, strut cartridges, rotors, calipers, fuel pump, braided hose, radiator, headers ($600.00.....ouch), distributor, starter, oil pump, oil pan....etc. If I already had a complete running engine, I would guess it could be put in and running for: JTR swap kit 275 Headers 200 JTR radiator 140 Hoses for radiator and heater 50 Taurus Fan (junk yard) 50 Exhaust 500 Driveshaft 350 (you could get a cheaper one....this is what mine cost with a new slip yoke and spicer u-joints) JTR Driveshaft adapter flange 65 Shifter 150 I'm sure I forgot some small stuff, but thats 1,780.00 and bare bones just to get it running....no gauges, etc. I called Hooker, and they don't make the crossmember anymore. I used JTR's crossmember (DAT-106) along with a spacer (from JTR also, but I don't see it on their web site) between the transmission mount and the crossmember. If you use the JTR motor mounts, you won't need this spacer though. In the first picture you can see the crossmember and the aluminum spacer, in the second picture you can see how the notches in the crossmember help with the exhaust. Good luck, and remember to enjoy the journey!

The higher the horsepower, the shorter the fuse. I know his question was already answered, but I've always like that saying.

Is the starter staying engaged after you release the start switch? Start the engine and let it run for a couple of seconds after you release the starter switch (pump the throttle or whatever it takes, just as long as the engine runs for a couple of seconds after you release the starter). Turn the engine off, and climb under the car and make sure the starter gear is NOT engaged with the flywheel. If it is, you need to shim your starter to get the correct clearance between the starter gear and the flywheel.

I was referring to Pauls post, not the thread.

Click it between high and low beams like 50 times. The contacts in the switch get corroded and sometimes don't allow the current through. If they ever come on, the problem is most likely in the switch contacts (could be an intermittent relay, but my guess would be the contacts). If this doesn't work, can you hear (and feel) the high beam relay click when you select high beams? Don't confuse it with the low beam relay clicking. If the high beam relay is not clicking: 1 - Make sure you're getting +12v current on the 86 pole of the high beam relay when the high beams are selected. If no current, either the contacts in the high/low beam lever are corroded, or you have a break in the wire between the lever and the relay. 2 - Check the ground on the high beam relay. If all that checks out, swap the high and low beam relays (or replace the high beam relay with one you know works) and check the high beams again. If the relay does sound and feel like it's working: 1 - Make sure the 30 pole of the high beam relay has +12v. If no current, check the fuse on this wire, and check for a break in it between the fuse panel and the relay. 2 - Make sure you're getting +12v on the 87 pole when high beams are selected. If no current, replace the relay. If there is current there might be a break in the wire to the headlight high beams.

Sounds like you got your turn signals figured out, if not maybe this link will help. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123434

Do you specifically remember it being hooked up before? The reason I ask is it may have been the power supply for the original EFI.

Man, thanks for the great posts and info guys. You've all confirmed what I was thinking, and what Greg said........Wait for the right "condition" car to come along, not any particular model. The reason I'm researching this (sorry if I sound nit-picky), is because I have a 2+2 now, and I'm going to say this quietly.....I kinda wish I would have gotten a 2-seater. Don't get me wrong, I love my car...fun to drive.....the price was right...good condition....etc.......or maybe I'm just justifying getting another one . I'll still keep my V8 2+2, I just want one thats a little easier to drive on the street.....oh yeah, and Pressurized . And Paul, is your post a sticky somewhere? If not, I vote for it...I thought I knew most of the differences, but I wasn't even close! Someone looking for a Z with a pupose in mind....daily driver, road coarse, str8 line, etc. would definitely benefit from your post. Thanks again all!

I'm almost embarrassed to ask this question, but I'm going to ask anyway.......Is there any difference in the S30 bodies? I mean subtle differences that I haven't noticed so far.....body mark, fender line, door line, etc. (other than the bumpers obviously). The reason I ask, is that I've been bit by the Z-bug, and am looking at buying a second one (a non-stretched version this time ).....and one that I could drive everyday. I know some of the mechanical advantages/disadvantages between them, but don't see any differences in the bodies.......Right now, I'm not looking for one model in particular and wanted to make sure there's not something I'm overlooking. Thanks in advance.