CableSrv

Yes it sold.

Pending sale, should be done by tomorrow.

Sorry for the blurry video.. my phone started overheating in this 102F temp and seems to make the video stutter and become wave then shut off mid video and had to take a second one.

Updating this with more recent pictures as I've been asked by a few. https://imgur.com/a/Qm87BT6

Thanks, I've seen cars like mine run higher, but hoping for a quicker sell.

Location: Fort Worth Texas 1971 240 98 LS1 and T56 (LS1 was cleaned up, oilpan gasket replaced, water pump gasket replaced, headgasket replaced, new head bolts, header studs, new thermostat) 99 ECU Complete new body wiring harness Chevy thunder Engine harness Vintage Air AC Mishimoto Radiator Ebay racing seats R180 STI torsen LSD Drive shaft shop 930CV's with STI to 930CV stub axles Rota RKR 17x9.5 with 275R35x17 tires JTR Headers with 1 3/4 primaries Custom 3in Exhaust with a resonator and straight through muffler + tip ( all connections are v-banded ) Speedhut GPS speedometer Speedhut RPM tachometer Prosport Fuel, Oil pressure, Water temp gauges summit 16g fuel cell walbro 255lph fuel pump with corvette regulator/filter Completely new fuel lines Stainless steel brake lines 1in willwood master cylinder 300zx I think brakebooster flipped (came from another z since I needed a bigger one for the 1in master cylinder.. just can't remember off top of my head which one) LED Headlights with relays MSA front air dam fiberglass fender flares Honda wiper motor rebuilt door hinges replaced door latch rubber so it closes good new carpet for interior removed and installed new floor pans and frame rails from baddog parts. Techno toy tuning front and rear strut tower braces. New tokico struts and vogtland springs I have full set of urathane bushings but have not had time to replace them. My build log for the entire thing is here https://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd as well as you can find my forum post as well on this site. Paint is definitely a work in progress, and driver side door was damage before I got the car and needs to be replaced. Door opens and closes good, but window tract is broken and the inner door to outer door skin looks like it was re-welded poorly so it's tweaked. I've driven 20k miles on the car since the LS1 swap and use the car as a daily driver to and from work 25 miles round trip 5x a week. I just bought a 2012 WRX as I need a more family oriented vehicle so need to sell the Z. I was in the process of turboing the car and have almost all the turbo stuff needed for the car minus dynotune and inter cooling piping. Up to you if you want to buy the turbo stuff as well as the Z or just the Z. Here is a list of all the turbo parts I have and spent on it. Turbo stuff: 3in Vibrant tight radius U bend $52.57 Weld Concentric 4" to 3" Reducer, Stainless Steel 304 $20.29 4in U bend $68.00 2.5in U bend $56.00 8 hi impedance 60lb ev1 fuel injectors $169.99 Rev9 RS-series 50mm wastegate 7-10-12-21-29 psi $98.40 T4 Divided Turbo inlet flange $32.75 2.5in flex pipe $23.99 2x 2.5in vband $45.98 Truck manifolds $69.07 Universal FMIC $105.00 GT45 Turbo $203.76 Currently looking at 10k for the car OBO.

Socorob, did you just buy the saturn vue motor? or the entire steering column? ebay for the most part is only listing the electric motor and not sure if I need the entire column or not.

Anyone in DFW know where I can find a driver side door for a 71 240z? I'm not finding any luck on craigslist and the original Z junk yard seems to no longer have Z's?

Ok so CXRacing failed to be able to get in that racing radiator... Does anyone know of a decent thin aluminum radiator I can get ? I think CXRacing stated there's were 28.75 x 13.5 x 1.5 but not sure what else is out there that could fit?

I've seen a lot of people push the intercooler way out front. Considering I have the intercooler, ac condenser, and radiator plus fans it's going to be a tight fit. I think it's doable but just hoping this radiator gives me the clearance I need without cutting and relocating the radiator support.

Yea, I'm waiting till weather starts to cool down in texas before I start working as it's hot as balls currently. I have a GT45 turbo as well as a set of 6.0L truck manifolds and plenty of 2.5in stainless pipe. I also ordered CXRacing's racing aluminum radiator to help increase the area I have to work with. Currently with the stock ebay aluminum radiator and camaro fans, there just simply isn't enough area in front of the ls1 to put the turbo I got in. So figured if I get dual fans in front of the radiator in a push configuration and a thinner radiator, I might have enough room to fit the turbo there without having to cut out the radiator support. I'm definitely going to have to run the truck headers in the forward and upwards configuration to clear the JCI compressor. But hopefully everything will work. My biggest concern is really having to cut out the radiator support if this new radiator doesn't give me enough clearance. I also ordered: 60# injectors 3 O2 bungs, 2 for the stock ls1 ecu and 1 for a wideband. 50mm wastegate with 7/10/14 psi springs all the vbands I need for 4in downpipe and 2.5in crossovers and a 2.5in flex pipe. All I have left to order is the intercooler, piping, and blow off valve. Once everything is test fitted and looks correct I'll get my z trailered to a dyno tune and setup.

I got myself a GT45 turbo and no way I can fit that between my radiator and engine! Not to mention since I have the JCI ac compressor kit, I can't do forward and under as there simply isn't enough space to fit a header output through there. I'm going to have to run a forward and up system, but even then I cannot fit my turbo between my radiator and engine... just not enough space! I'm either going to have to cut my radiator support and move it and get another 2-3in's. Not sure how everyone else is fitting their turbos with AC as well. So far every picture album I find, it looks like no one is running ac and a turbo?

I use imgur.com to host all my images and it works pretty well.

I'm about to go Turbo, however I'm finding it hard to route headers since I have the stock alternator location and JCI's ac compressor location setup. The driver side I am hoping I can get away with having the truck manifolds turned upwards and forwards... and hopefully that will give me enough clearance to pass over the compressor. If not, I might have to mock up something to go over it.

Actually when I did my JCI kit it came with my driveshaft however I did have to specify a R180 flange. But I assume that would be correct.

<< texan, all you need currently is a saftey test and that's it! And most of the "shops" will be so happy looking at your old car that they skip some of those test.... Every time I've taken my ls1 240z, they are all smiles and just ask a shit ton of questions. I've deleted everything EGR and have no cats, nor do I catch oil from the valve covers and not a peep.

I am currently running a STI R180 torsen. I had to get a R180 mustache bar that is post 72 as the pre 72 mustache bar I had held the diff an 1in backwards than it is suppose to be. you need a 72+ R180 mustache bar R180 input flange as a R200 input flange will not work on the STI You will need your drive shaft flange changed to match the R180 input flange probably. I already had a R180 driveshaft so I simply used my input flange on the STI R180. I did not get wolf creeks system, but got http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/datsun-510-240z-with-r180-differential-108mm-cv-conversion-kit which includes the CV axles and the Stub Axles that push snap into the diff. I also bought the Ron Tyler diff mount as well for my setup. So far it's held up to a LS1 with slight abuse.

So I'm now at the point that a stock ls1 isn't enough. I'm thinking of going turbo and have already figured out what size I want for my HP goals however, looking at headers I can either use the stock truck manifolds flipped forward or even flipped up and forward. Problem is with how JCI has the ac compressor. The driver side header, I don't think will fit? Does anyone currently run a turbo with the JCI kit? Part of me thinks I might have to make my own turbo header for the driver side.

I did the same thing for my Z but mine are slightly different. http://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd I freakin love them!

they provided me with permatex gasket maker to seal the shifter top to the t56.

Thanks to you litman for the idea, I did what you did and love every bit of it!

It is NOT just shortening the shift! the MGW makes the shifter much more solid! Zero slop, and very quick shifts. I would not suggest anyone to purchase anything other than MGW. Even tho I had to modify it, this is honestly the best shifter I've ever had. I'ved used B&M's, Hurst, and the Pro series and none of them come close to the MGW in feel of solidedness.

My latest changes... litman posted this a while back and I loved what he did so I copied him! <-- freakin awesome! As for the shifter on the T56. The default lever they give you to me is too straight. It comes with a mark so that you can trim it about 1.5in's to make it shorter and I did that, and still felt like it was still to forward. I had to rotate the orange part of the shifter to go rearwards to bring it closer to me. Then after all that I still felt I needed it to come back some. So I took the lever, notched it and bent it back about 10 degrees, and it is perfect now. The orange part rotates every 90 degrees. So mine now faces towards me.

I freakin LOVE this MGW shifter!!! Best thing ever for my car! Extremely solid shifting and much smoother all around.

So ordered myself a MGW shifter, new leather shift knob, some LED's to attempt a halo like look on my parking lights like Litman did to his and a new steering wheel with new hub.